Any solar or wind experts

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I have an 800sq. Ft. Building I would like to power off grid. Just need enough power for lights.

Anyone do this type work?
 

I would have to brush up on my electricity and math but i replaced my undershelf lights in my tool truck with 8' strings of led's. With a 12 v. power source they draw .8 amp per 8' string. I don't know how much power a solar panel puts out or home windmill/generator. Chime in guys....lets find out! tmm
 
Do you have power available, IE you don't actually need to do this?'

Does the power co in your area "buy back" power?

If so, investigate what are called "grid tie inverters." These don't need batteries, and are now "plug and play" and expandable. What you do is, install solar, hook it to a special box that feeds power back into the grid. Not batteries, just payback.
 
Have a look.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeW3t6Nv1ec"]Les Stroud - Off the grid [Part 7] - YouTube[/ame]
 
Like TMM says, LEDs would be the way to go in my opinion. I don't know anything about your particular needs, but for the lowest upfront cost, light only, you could go with LP gas lanterns... Many off grid homes use LP for lights, heat, cooking, refrigeration, water heating...
 
I've installed a couple systems on RV's. What's your lighting load? That is, how many watts and how long will it need to operate. What other loads do you wish to power? 12VDC or 115VAC? IF you need AC, are you sure you wouldn't be happier with a Honda EU2000i generator?
 
Thanks for the ideas.
I like the led idea mike.
Hooking up to the grid is not an option. Local codes would force me to change from temporary to permanent structure.
Trying to avoid the generator but that may be the best option.
Looking for enough power for lights and small tools drill press and such.
 
I LIVED OFF THE GRID IN Hawaii FOR 7 YRS, BUT BY NO WAY AN EXPERT. If you are not in there 24/7 you can get away with a 40 watt panel, 12v leds (there are tons of styles) and two batteries. Right now I have 3 15w chepo harbor freigt panes on my garage to maintain batteries and a 2000w inverter (for the occasional 110vac) I had around. I usually have one battery on the bench and a cord to whatever lawn mower, tractor or car that needs it. Works well. The harbor freight one surprised me how well it worked out around 170 when on sale and comes with 2 12v drop lights that are fairly good. The junction bay is also wired for usb 3, 6, 9 and 12 volt. I usually put my mp3 in it while in the shop. Just putting it out there. Wind I use in my hops field with a delco alternator with a modified rotor and it runs a 12v pump to pull water out of the pond. It also has a junk battery with a regulator. puts out 20 Amps in a 25mph wind. If you want to build one let me know I have a spare set of composite blades for one.Ray
 
If you plan to run power tools, the generator WILL be your best option compared to straight solar. The battery capacity and inverter will cost more than a generator, and will probably be more than a permanent installation assuming power is reasonable close by.

If the building is a temporary structure, or an "agricultural outbuilding" that may need to be occasionally relocated, you are best off either using a "construction temporary" service, or permanently mounting your meter and disconnect to a pole and mastheading to the structure. If the structure must move frequently you could set up an "RV service" and just plug the structure in as needed.

I'm really curious exactly what codes prevent this? What I describe above is common practice for job sites, trailers, construction offices and people who want to put a small shop into a garden shed on skids, or a "tiny house". If you're trying to skate around a CCR or HOA rule that specifically prohibits exactly what you are trying to do my best advice would be to appeal for a variance before you start. If you get into a fight with one of these entities, you will lose (potentially a lot).

In any event, my advice is to follow all applicable codes and best practices.
 
halifaxhops said:
I LIVED OFF THE GRID IN Hawaii FOR 7 YRS, BUT BY NO WAY AN EXPERT. If you are not in there 24/7 you can get away with a 40 watt panel, 12v leds (there are tons of styles) and two batteries. Right now I have 3 15w chepo harbor freigt panes on my garage to maintain batteries and a 2000w inverter (for the occasional 110vac) I had around. I usually have one battery on the bench and a cord to whatever lawn mower, tractor or car that needs it. Works well. The harbor freight one surprised me how well it worked out around 170 when on sale and comes with 2 12v drop lights that are fairly good. The junction bay is also wired for usb 3, 6, 9 and 12 volt. I usually put my mp3 in it while in the shop. Just putting it out there. Wind I use in my hops field with a delco alternator with a modified rotor and it runs a 12v pump to pull water out of the pond. It also has a junk battery with a regulator. puts out 20 Amps in a 25mph wind. If you want to build one let me know I have a spare set of composite blades for one.Ray
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Pm sent
 
Halifaxhops hooked me up. FABO members are the best.

Thanks Ray
 
C130 Chief said:
If you plan to run power tools, the generator WILL be your best option compared to straight solar. The battery capacity and inverter will cost more than a generator, and will probably be more than a permanent installation assuming power is reasonable close by.

If the building is a temporary structure, or an "agricultural outbuilding" that may need to be occasionally relocated, you are best off either using a "construction temporary" service, or permanently mounting your meter and disconnect to a pole and mastheading to the structure. If the structure must move frequently you could set up an "RV service" and just plug the structure in as needed.

I'm really curious exactly what codes prevent this? What I describe above is common practice for job sites, trailers, construction offices and people who want to put a small shop into a garden shed on skids, or a "tiny house". If you're trying to skate around a CCR or HOA rule that specifically prohibits exactly what you are trying to do my best advice would be to appeal for a variance before you start. If you get into a fight with one of these entities, you will lose (potentially a lot).

In any event, my advice is to follow all applicable codes and best practices.
Click to expand...
Codes? What's that? We live in an unincorporated third world county....damn near anything goes....and before a certain someone starts on me, again, about this I realize that even we do have codes...enforcement of them is another gig though.
 
i'm putting solar panels on my house and building a "green" certified building with solar panels and wind power. in the last couple of years i've been researching solar power and the prices are all over the place. a basic place to start for cost is $8-10k per 1 killo-watt of power production. look at your house electric bill and figure out how much you are using from "the electric company" you are hooked up to. you can then estimate how may "watts" of power you need to generate. as to storage batteries, they also vary widely in price and performance. you can't use car batteries because they will not last under multiple power discharges. you have to use marine or golf cart batteries. house LED lights and compac florescence lights both use about the same wattage. car led's use the least amount of power.

a simple solar and wind system is fairly easy to put together.
 
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