Any tips for removing stuck intake manifold? (Update...it worked)

-
J

jcarr210

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
119
Reaction score
17
Location
san antonio
Just like it says everything is off everything is removed I just can't break it loose. I had a decent oil pooling on top of the intake and need to swap the gaskets but beating on it with a rubber mallet has done nothing. Intake and heads are both aluminum and I don't want to risk screwing anything up. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

IMG_1423.PNG
 
I've always been ok lightly prying from the top of the timing cover and bottom of the water nipple up front. I've had some really glued down intakes and never had to pry too hard.
 
The engine hoist idea is a good one... btw where did you get those valve covers, they're cool!!
 
take off the bypass hose ,place a pry bar under the nipple and apply pressure
 
Thank for the quick replies. Time to get out there with a drop light and give it a try.

Yeah love the look of those valve covers and I haven't seen too many people with them probably because they're so damn expensive. The guy before me installed them because I wouldn't pay over $300 for them. These are them installed on the motor

IMG_1424.PNG
 
Open the man door to your garage, tie one end of a length of cord to the door knob, extend it to the intake and tie the other end to the front runners..................
 
I use some putty knives to slid between the intake and the head. This helps break the gasket loose. After you've managed to tap (using a hammer) the putty knives in there you can sometimes use a wide screwdriver, but be careful because a steel screwdriver can break off a piece of the aluminum manifold, it can also put a dent/scratch in the aluminum...so pick your spot in the heaviest part of the manifold. As you get more and more screwdrivers wedged in there it will eventually pop loose. The putty knives are the safest route because they usually won't scar the aluminum like a screwdriver will.

treblig
 
Bolt the carb back on and fire it up. The lean backfire from all the intake leaks should do the trick quite nicely.
 
As already mentioned...Putty knives. Find or buy the thinnest blade putty knife you can. Sharpen it on a grinding wheel to a knife edge. Make sure there is not a rough edge. You can buff it with a wire wheel, or strop it on a leather belt. Spray it with some silicone. Work the sharpened edge in between the manifold and block. Tap it in with a hammer. Do this in every place accessible. Once this has been done and it still won't break loose; a piece of wedge shaped, sharpened oak, can be hammered in between the manifold and block. Using the engine lift, as said, wouldn't hurt. Good luck.
 
Sure enough a sharp thin metal putty knife cut through the front between intake and block did the trick and it popped right off! The hoist was the next step if it didn't work. Now to get the intake gasket off that's as hard as concrete. Plastic scrapers aren't cutting it so going to parts store to see if there is some kind of gasket remover/softener. I really appreciate all the advice/help!

IMG_1431.PNG
 
Maybe rag the valley, shape some cardboard to fit tight in there, shop vacuum it all out before you remove the cardboard. There are metal gasket scrappers available. Use softener and be careful with them.
 
You need way less silicone around the water ports. In fact, I don't use any with that gasket.

Also, I use gaskacinch on both sides of the gasket and bolt it down. Just use silicone on the China walls.

I like the look when it's together.
 
Yeah I already covered everything up to minimize getting crap in there. Also I agree about the silicon. If you look at the back of the block he almost completely sealed what I assume is a water port. The car came with an extra set of edelbrock manifold gaskets and being that I have edelbrock heads/intake and they're free I'm going to use those with the gaskacinch I have from my old air cooled vw days.
 
Dont forget sealant on the intake bolts, especially the ones where the bolt holes are open to the inside of the heads. Oil wicks up the bolts and pools on the intake if you dont seal them. The rear water passeges dont go anywhere, the back of the intake is dry. They are only there as the heads can go on either side of the engine.
 
Yeah there were a number of intake bolts that came up with oil on the threads...makes sense now. I'll be sure to do that. Thanks!
 
jcarr210 said:
Yeah there were a number of intake bolts that came up with oil on the threads...makes sense now. I'll be sure to do that. Thanks!
Click to expand...

The best way to remove gasket material safely is to use a carbide scraper. They are very sharp, machined perfectly flat and safe on aluminum. They are available from most shop supply companies for about 30 bucks. They will remove the gasket residue without removing metal from the sealing surfaces. You will still see the gasket stain but thats all that it is remaining, just a stain left from the old gasket.
upload_2017-1-5_21-21-51.png
 
I use a razor blade to clean the gaskets off, but be careful
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top