Anybody keep track of body work / panel replacement hours?

[1MeanA]

I've always wondered what amount of hours a pro would need to replace panels, prime, block, finish sand, etc. (not that I am doing work for anyone else and figuring out what to charge or anything like that). Knowing what a pro would need helps me figure out how long the job will take. For example, I'm replacing the front floors (individual panels) and I'm thinking 8 hours per side to cut out the floors, trim, grind, fit, prime, punch holes, weld and grind. It will probably take me a bit more than that especially on the driver's side. Sometimes I add 50-100% to what I think a pro would need if I have never done the job before... before depending on difficulty. Next up is full rockers, outer rear wheel house, trunk extension and full quarters. I figure that's another 30 hours for a pro so 40 minimum for me as I have never done this before. Maybe I am out to lunch I'm assuming the AMD quarters fit nice. Thoughts?

 

[j_anderson]

I'm assuming the AMD quarters fit nice. Thoughts?

I bought Dart Swinger full quarters and they mostly fit ok.

I was told by the body folks that the dies are a little loose in some spots. Mainly, the spot in the B-pillar area. The top profile isn't as tight of a curve as it should be and on the side, between body lines 1,2 & 3. there is more of an outward bow where it should be flatter to match the profile of the door.

YMMV and the body guys shaped these areas to make them look right on mine

 

[1MeanA]

I bought Dart Swinger full quarters and they mostly fit ok.

I was told by the body folks that the dies are a little loose in some spots. Mainly, the spot in the B-pillar area. The top profile isn't as tight of a curve as it should be and on the side, between body lines 1,2 & 3. there is more of an outward bow where it should be flatter to match the profile of the door.

Yeah thats why part of me thinks I would be better off to use only the bottom half of the panel...perhaps just below the top line.

 

[j_anderson]

Yeah thats why part of me thinks I would be better off to use only the bottom half of the panel...perhaps just below the top line.

This is originally where the panel was going to be replaced but I was worried about seeing a ghost line eventually. The material on the car was going to have a lip put on it then the quarter laid against it and welded. I dont think a ghost line would be an issue if it were butt welded instead of lap joined.

Were you thinking of using a lower body line? This photo, the cut is about 1/2" below body line #1

 

[1MeanA]

This is originally where the panel was going to be replaced but I was worried about seeing a ghost line eventually. The material on the car was going to have a lip put on it then the quarter laid against it and welded. I dont think a ghost line would be an issue if it were butt welded instead of lap joined.

Were you thinking of using a lower body line? This photo, the cut is about 1/2" below body line #1
View attachment 1715985944

I would use the same line as you. Problem with a seam here is you have to use filler and fight with keeping the section flat. I will compare the contours between the old and new panel and see how they look. I should have bought a contour gauge while I was out this am.

 

[lenky1]

Ive been doing bodywork for 20 years. These old cars when you do stuff its a guess on time when you bid them. You use personal experience and your skill to gauge it. On my 2nd duster i can tell you i had 3 days in removing and installing both quarters trunk extensions and rear body panel. That is welded in and seam sealed ready to prime. As a beginner id say triple the time. If someone asked me to do it as a job i would bid it around 32 to 35hrs. But it all boils down to skill and the willingness to learn. Tbh id rather teach someone the skills than have them spend $$$ on it at a shop. Plus there is a sense of pride that comes with it

 

[1MeanA]

Ive been doing bodywork for 20 years. These old cars when you do stuff its a guess on time when you bid them. You use personal experience and your skill to gauge it. On my 2nd duster i can tell you i had 3 days in removing and installing both quarters trunk extensions and rear body panel. That is welded in and seam sealed ready to prime. As a beginner id say triple the time. If someone asked me to do it as a job i would bid it around 32 to 35hrs. But it all boils down to skill and the willingness to learn. Tbh id rather teach someone the skills than have them spend $$$ on it at a shop. Plus there is a sense of pride that comes with it

I'm not a beginner but have mostly done structural work like floors. 3 days for quarters and trunk extensions is pretty good. I am guessing I will be double that.

 

[lenky1]

As long as u focus on quality not speed then you will do fine. And the sense of accomplishment will keep you motivated. Im sure you will do well with it. Plus we are all here to help if needed

 

[WAYNE0]

I charge by the job. All the AMD panels ive installed fit nice. I bought and installed the first pair of 69 barracuda full quarters and they were awesome.

 

[KevinB]

how many hours of work do you guys think it will take to replace an entire rear clip (middle of wheel arch to the very back) as all one piece? Assuming you had the spare rear clip and could trim it to where you wanted to. My 66 Dart has rusted lower rear quarters, pinholes in the spare pan, and a dent on the lovely side curves near the passenger tail light. I'd also like to use a 65 bumper which means I need a valance. I have a 65 rear clip ready to go, but I'm curious if my body shop is going to want to replace the whole back end, or do it in pieces. How would you guys that do bodywork approach that?

 

[lenky1]

I dont like setting entire clips. Everything has 2 be perfect. Meaning no tweeks or twists etc. Setting by piece you can adjust accordingly. Now sometimes it is easier doing a clip. Time wise id say in your case 4 or 5 days either way as long as no problems arise

 

[WAYNE0]

how many hours of work do you guys think it will take to replace an entire rear clip (middle of wheel arch to the very back) as all one piece? Assuming you had the spare rear clip and could trim it to where you wanted to. My 66 Dart has rusted lower rear quarters, pinholes in the spare pan, and a dent on the lovely side curves near the passenger tail light. I'd also like to use a 65 bumper which means I need a valance. I have a 65 rear clip ready to go, but I'm curious if my body shop is going to want to replace the whole back end, or do it in pieces. How would you guys that do bodywork approach that?

first of all if you do it that way you will need a frame machine i wouldnt do it that way its over kill just replace the panels that need to be also its going to take 3 times the effort take your old panels off take off the good old panels and install them most body shops will not do something like that if they do its going to be $70 hr or more