Anybody make their own fast idle solenoid for AC

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my5thmopar

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Anybody have a AC fast idle solenoid? I would like to put on solenoid on an Edelbrock 1406 Dart with 318. I want it to kick in when I use the AC. I'm looking for a low cost solution please. It seems that I have to idle the engine too high in drive and at stop lights.

Links or suggestion appreciated.
 
I found this, however no direct experience with it.

[ame]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/edl-8059-idlecompensatorkitfored.pdf[/ame]
 
Just get a OEM style (any brand) from your local parts store and adapt it. Shouldn't be to hard, there are many choices and they all work the same. I used GM style in the past because they are easy to adjust.
 
I think they are a bit smaller than a GM starter solenoid. My idea is that you could position it at the right distance so that when it fully pulls back, it just pulls tight on a cable enough to bump up the idle. And when disengaged, would not interfere with throttle travel.
 
The thing is, you don't need anything that big or strong, or that draw so much current, and those are probably not rated for continuous operation.

The old original Mopar (sixpack) solenoids were not strong enough to "pop" a throttle up off idle, but rather popped out after you gave the thing a little bit of fuel. Remember too, that originally these were powered off the "ignition run" circuit, which ain't all that big a wire, and is NOT fused!!
 
I was thinking about using the anti-diesel (run-on) solenoid off a lean burn setup.
 
The thing is, you don't need anything that big or strong, or that draw so much current, and those are probably not rated for continuous operation.

The old original Mopar (sixpack) solenoids were not strong enough to "pop" a throttle up off idle, but rather popped out after you gave the thing a little bit of fuel. Remember too, that originally these were powered off the "ignition run" circuit, which ain't all that big a wire, and is NOT fused!!

I'm not saying you have to use the 60# model, they make smaller ones, and as far as the wiring, that's why they make relays. Everyone is complaining about the Holley and all of the other solenoids being too weak to actually move the throttle and having to bump the pedal. I don't find that to be a solution. I'm pretty sure none of them has the power that one of these shaved door solenoids has. As far as continuous operation.......if these things failed all the time, that would suck and leave you unable to open your door.
 
I haven't forgotten about this thread. I was waiting until I made one. Here are the solenoids I was looking at. The parts do interchange from a few different manufacturers. My goal was a low cost solution. ECS528 is a Chrysler part but, hard to find. It can be wired into the existing AC circuit. ESC49 another choice.
 
. As far as continuous operation.......if these things failed all the time, that would suck and leave you unable to open your door.

Continuous operation has nothing to do with failing in proper operation

Such things as starter solenoids and door solenoids are designed for a short amount of operation, not staying on CONTINUOUSLY as an idle solenoid would be

Example is a battery isolation solenoid, known as a "continuous duty solenoid." If you try and use a Ford starter (or any other) starter solenoid for a battery relay, you would burn it up in a very few minutes.

So far as having to "bump the throttle" I don't see what the big deal is. Just about any of 'em I've seen work this very way. Modern EFI screws with the idle motor, so that's a completely different situation.
 
I used the factory anti-diesel solenoid and made a bracket to hold it on the throttle side. It wont push it open but it will hold it if the thottle is bumped. Works great and after two years, I've not had a problem. This is on a 360 with a 750 holley.
 
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