Anybody use this Disc Conversion Kit on an Early abody? MDC46SD

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J Glenn said:
MDC46SD

Right Stuff Detailing 4-Wheel Disc Brake Conversion Kits MDC46SD

It's a 4-wheel disc conversion with, seemingly, all the parts. I'm swapping out the 7.25" rear-end at the same time so I need rear breaks anyway (else I'd be ok with rear drumbs with 4.5" pattern).

Anyway, experiences? Opinions (Other than: it's expensive)?

Thanks,
joe
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I have them on my 69 Barracuda right now. Do you have the 73-76 upper control arm, spindle and lower ball joint int he front? The rear requires the "green bearing" to install. I'll actually be pulling them off in the next week or so as I'm going with Wilwoods. I do not recommend them for the price you pay as you can get the Wilwood for a few hundred more. But if you are interested I'd be willing to sell the complete set I have for half the price of it new. Do you have any specific questions?

edit...When I bought mine it did not come with the spindles, upper control arms or lower ball joint. I already had them.
 
Last edited:
Chebe said:
I have them on my 69 Barracuda right now. Do you have the 73-76 upper control arm, spindle and lower ball joint int he front? The rear requires the "green bearing" to install. I'll actually be pulling them off in the next week or so as I'm going with Wilwoods. I do not recommend them for the price you pay as you can get the Wilwood for a few hundred more. But if you are interested I'd be willing to sell the complete set I have for half the price of it new. Do you have any specific questions?

edit...When I bought mine it did not come with the spindles, upper control arms or lower ball joint. I already had them.
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Unfortunately, I need the control arms, ball joints, master cyl, etc. (Because it's a '65). I'm even getting a new axel, because I'm moving to 8.75 rearend and the 4.5" bolt pattern.

So what is it that you don't like? I'm assuming you have good reason to move to Willwoods... which, of course I'm considering, but I have not found a complete willwood kit for this car so I have to piece something together.
 
Eveytime you need a part you need to order from Willwood and wait a week. Stay with stock parts & go to your local auto store. Cost is a lot less.
 
J Glenn said:
Unfortunately, I need the control arms, ball joints, master cyl, etc. (Because it's a '65). I'm even getting a new axel, because I'm moving to 8.75 rearend and the 4.5" bolt pattern.

So what is it that you don't like? I'm assuming you have good reason to move to Willwoods... which, of course I'm considering, but I have not found a complete willwood kit for this car so I have to piece something together.
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The rear caliper is off a 79 el dorado, which is one of the worst calipers in existence. I had to sand 1/16" off each rear pad in order for the mechanical ratcheting mechanism to grab the next tooth to be close enough for the piston to push the pads into the rotor and for the brakes to work. Bleeding was a pain and I found the only way of doing it was giving my buddy beer to pump the brakes for about an hour one night while I held the caliper as instructed by "The Right Stuff" video, instructions and tech support.

The front caliper is off a 73-76 disc brake setup except powder coated if that is the route you are going. That was easy.

I had to replace all the bleeder screws as I crushed them trying to get them to stop seeping which meant more air in the system and more bleeding.

Lastly I had to put a return spring on the brake pedal to get the pedal to return.

At Cruisin' the Coast this year, "The Right Stuff" had a vendor tent. Naturally I stopped by and their whole display was Wilwood.

I do have the rear proportioning valve installed under the driver seat where the brake line made a factory bend which worked out great but I don't feel much difference with it in any position as the rear brakes never "lock up". I was expecting more grab from the brakes than what they produce hence the reason for buying the Wilwood's (I also have a 7 month old daughter that I also don't want to hurt in the case I would need to come to a sudden stop). Maybe I did something wrong but after 3 years of messing with them I don't know what else to do to make them perform how I expected.

Edit - I bought the a master cylinder from Napa cheap to do away with the one I bought from them. Napa's has a bolt in the middle to hold the cap on vs. the clip over the top and has a 1" bore. This also gave me a firmer pedal with less travel.
 
Chebe said:
The rear caliper is off a 79 el dorado, w... ... I bought the a master cylinder from Napa cheap to do away with the one I bought from them. Napa's has a bolt in the middle to hold the cap on vs. the clip over the top and has a 1" bore. This also gave me a firmer pedal with less travel.
Click to expand...

El Dorado? Not the single-piston 70's mopar calipers?! WTF?! Point taken! And, I'm happy to say I found a Willwood front drum to caliber conversion kit that bolts onto my early abody (without replacing the upper control arm, up and lower ball joints and steering knuckle!). It doesn't include the master cylinder, rear breaks or partitioning valve, but I can get those things onezy-twozie... FWIW: Brake Kit No: 140-11022

Thanks for the feedback. You might have just saved me a head ache and a case of beer.

I'll keep the forum posted on my progress... No decisions are final yet... but I'm leaning toward the above willwood kit.
 
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