Anyone running a hydraulic clutch with their 833?

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:banghead:

My question was basically "where and how do we attach the Master cylinder"

Reply Below.

Thanks for your support of McLeod Racing.

We don’t have a plug in play kit made for the mopars. With that said you would be responsible for making a firewall bracket with the correct 6:1 pedal ratio incorporated into the bracket. You more than likely will need to make an extension to the m/c to connect to the pedal assembly as well. Take a look at our chart below on how to figure a 6:1 pedal ratio.

http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5262




Billy Mieczkowski
Technical Sales

[email protected]
tel:714 630 2764 Ext 223
fax:714 630 5129 ​
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i wish i saved the site and artice,, i found a really nice master kit with linkage that will work in an A body in a mustang magazine,,,if any ones cares to look at one of those magazines,,,
 
johnparts said:
Hey guys I'm picking up my trans sunday and it includes all the z bar stuff but I was thinking of running a hydraulic set-up and hoping someone has done this and can point me in the direction of who makes a good affordable set-up. Pictures would be nice too.
Click to expand...
i bought a kiesler setup for my 35 plymouth 340. installed it as instructed, has been working flawlessly for about 7 years now. i don't baby this hotrod and have never had a problem with it. never ever leaked a drop of fluid. still has original fluid. was it worth the price? of course cause i haven't had to pull the trans. slave cylinders suck.
 
Wylde1 said:
On what vehicle???

With my Demon it's a 30 min or less job once it is up on jackstands. No power tools involved.

6 bolts/nuts on header collectors
4 bolts on the u-joint straps
3 bolts on the shifter mount
3 nuts on the shift levers
4 bolts on the trans crossmember
unplug the reverse sender switch
4 bolts connect the trans to bellhousing

Slide it out. Easy peasy


Wylde1.
Click to expand...
x 2. actually 35 minutes. you gotta drop at least one wrench
 
Never tried one in an A body, but don't forget Mopar's factory hydraulic setups for small blocks. All manual trans pickups form the late 80's early 90's have a dual pattern bell housing that will accept an 833, as the 833OD was an option on those trucks. These use a fork/release brg, and the slave is on the passenger side which may or may not solve some clearance issues for you. These are generally an 11" clutch.

It does require the large 833OD bearing retainer or machining a ring to adapt the smaller 833 retainer to the large bore, which is what I did since I didn't have the large retainer handy. Made it with a .005" interference fit on the ID to keep it in place, warmed it slightly and dropped it on.

Anyhow, another option to consider.

.
 
Where can I get a nice kit for a fair price?

I am also looking for a used BB Lakewood style steel bell housing.

Thanks!
 
KP said:
Where can I get a nice kit for a fair price?

I am also looking for a used BB Lakewood style steel bell housing.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

A nice kit for a fair price? It does not exist. Not for Mopars at least. You'll be better off pieceing together your own. I used a swap meet QuickTime bell housing with a Powertrain Tech hydraulic release bearing, a Wilwood clutch master cylinder, braided clutch line. The rest I fabricated. You could also use a factory bell housing of course.
 
I got my setup from American Powertrain. Everything...plug n play. Been running it all summer and I'll NEVER go back to that blasted antique z bar setup. Street and strip. Nuff said on my part.
 
Hey, can I ask exactly where you bought your gear and which part numbers?

Thanks!
 
I used a mismatch of Jeep master and slave from two different models from the mid 80s I believe. I had a post about it several years ago on here but may be long gone by now....
This slave is very much like the one I used from 80-86Jeep CJ models. It had enough travel that I use the stock push point in the fork.
105502.jpg

This is like the master Cylinder I used from a 86 Cherokee series.
m0109_8.jpg

You can see the master cylinder mounted here. I did fab a reinforcement plate for the mounting and removed the spring from the pedal as well as welded up a place where I drilled and tapped a hole for the shaft that went through the apply rod on the pedal arm.
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Took me a while to figure it out again but the edits should be correct now.
 
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