Anyone running a kevco 6qt pan?

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Did you generate the order or their sales staff.

If you generated it and ordered the wrong one, it's on you to return it. If their staff generated the order and you told them the engine that you had, it's on them.

If the latter, send them an e-mail back and state nicely that the sales person was told you had a 360/magnum whatever and they sent you a 318-340 pan, instead of the correct 360 pan. You don't feel that it's your responsibility to incur the return shipping cost in this situation and if they could please send you a return call tag.
 
I've got one of these pans and the other day I had to take the pan off, with this pan I was able to do it in the car and didn't even have to loosen the motor mounts and hoist it up, I was unable to do that with a stock pan a few years ago lol. Warning tho the pan's rail will need attention and it's a PITA to clean it out, I cleaned like hell and somehow my mains still got galled up, nothing in the motor lost metal so I gotta blame the weld splatter in the pan.
 
Did you generate the order or their sales staff.

If you generated it and ordered the wrong one, it's on you to return it. If their staff generated the order and you told them the engine that you had, it's on them.

If the latter, send them an e-mail back and state nicely that the sales person was told you had a 360/magnum whatever and they sent you a 318-340 pan, instead of the correct 360 pan. You don't feel that it's your responsibility to incur the return shipping cost in this situation and if they could please send you a return call tag.

I agree with you & I do notthing you read the entire thread. Kevko does not sell direct. You have to go through one of Kevkes authorized dealers. Dealer are parts salesmen in general or some call centre in Pakastan. So I call Kevko direct to get the correct P/N for a 5.9 Magnum (M301) was what Kevko told me and that's what I ordered from CNC. It's not CNC's fault they send what I asked for. It's Kevko's fault and all I gwet out of Kevko is that they are sincerly sorry for any inconviance. I'm $30.00 poor. or as I look at there goes some other part for my car and no one will step up to the plate (Kevko). CNC is sending me a M302 and letting me return the M301 but, I get dinged shipping both ways. I just want to add this about customer service in general.

Over the last 4 months I have paid a top end shop over $13,000.00 building a pro-street rear and roll cage for my Valiant. I brough the car home to do alot of the grinding and cleaning before the finishing touch of the sheet metal, another $4,000.00. Today I was over that way to see what progress has been made in 4 weeks. Nothing. Buddy was replacing the drivers side wind in his ex-girlfriends Neon and could take 5 minutes to talk to me. I went in the shop looked at the car and decided that it was comming home. I'll do it myself. Now if my customer had never bitched about paying a bill and was happy with the work. When the customer came back for stage two I think I could get out of a car for five minutes and talk to the guy. Not Buddy. I sent he an e-mail when I got home telling to square up my account (which should be zero cause he ain't don ****) and the flat deck will be there Monday or Tuesday to pick it up.

BEER TIME!:butthead:
 
I agree with you & I do notthing you read the entire thread. Kevko does not sell direct. You have to go through one of Kevkes authorized dealers. Dealer are parts salesmen in general or some call centre in Pakastan. So I call Kevko direct to get the correct P/N for a 5.9 Magnum (M301) was what Kevko told me and that's what I ordered from CNC. It's not CNC's fault they send what I asked for. It's Kevko's fault and all I gwet out of Kevko is that they are sincerly sorry for any inconviance. I'm $30.00 poor. or as I look at there goes some other part for my car and no one will step up to the plate (Kevko). CNC is sending me a M302 and letting me return the M301 but, I get dinged shipping both ways. I just want to add this about customer service in general.

Over the last 4 months I have paid a top end shop over $13,000.00 building a pro-street rear and roll cage for my Valiant. I brough the car home to do alot of the grinding and cleaning before the finishing touch of the sheet metal, another $4,000.00. Today I was over that way to see what progress has been made in 4 weeks. Nothing. Buddy was replacing the drivers side wind in his ex-girlfriends Neon and could take 5 minutes to talk to me. I went in the shop looked at the car and decided that it was comming home. I'll do it myself. Now if my customer had never bitched about paying a bill and was happy with the work. When the customer came back for stage two I think I could get out of a car for five minutes and talk to the guy. Not Buddy. I sent he an e-mail when I got home telling to square up my account (which should be zero cause he ain't don ****) and the flat deck will be there Monday or Tuesday to pick it up.

BEER TIME!:butthead:

i do understand your frustration in the matter, however I do know that kevko does sell direct to customers. I purchased me 360 pan about 2 months ago. i had no problems with mine, fit great, works great.

as a business owner myself, i could understand how without an order to refer to, they would be reluctant to pay any shipping on any orders that didnt come direct.
 
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

Well the story continues. What wrong with #2 KEVKO oil pan?

Hint: Application is a 2011 5.9 Magnum block installed in a 1969 Plymouth Vaiant.

Any takers?
 

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FABO guys I need someone to listen :prayer:

From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: m301 & m302
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 08:34:49 -0500


Brad,

The only difference between the 360 LA and the 360 Magnum is going to be the front corners on the timing cover. We do not currently have a distributor that can offer us a 360 stock style core for the 360 Magnum block. The only magnum cores that we have to work with are rear sump cores, which would drive up the price of the pan considerably because of the extra fabrication that would be involved in the pan.

As far as installing our LA pan on your magnum block, the you should have no problem at all using a one piece Magnum gasket with a good Ultra Black silicone in the corners of the timing cover, as long as your surface is prepped well. Another option we have had guys doing is using 2 different type gaskets. for instance taking part number OS32115 one piece gasket, trimming the timing cover off the gasket and using the front seal from a Felpro 1807 Kit, then just using a thin patch of Ultra black at the seam. Both cures have both been effective to use.

I am sorry for your dissatisfaction with the Kevko product, if you do not feel comfortable installing it that way, please contact me, I will return your pan personally. If you decide to keep it, please send me your address and I will be sure you receive a Kevko T-shirt and can coozie. Thank you

Josh Ruby
www.kevkoracing.com
915 North Orient St.
Fairmont, MN 56031
(800) 770-3557
[email protected]

My reply to Josh at Kevko.....

Josh,

The only difference between the first Kevko oil pan CNC-Motorsports sent me (M301) and the second Kevko oil pan (M302) is the 5/8" gap between the rear main bearing cap where the oil pan seal is located between the Engine and the oil pan. Also, there is more than the issue of a gap at the front corners as you indicate. It is the entire section. See that big flange that is re the fly wheel bolts, not the harmonic balancer located in the front of the engine or timing cover. But, if anyone has taken the time to read my several e-mails and had even a little knowledge on engines, we'd be good to go.

Look at picture Kevko 3. That is the front of the engine, timing chain cover. The big orange bolt head is the harmonic balancer bolt. This is the front of the engine you refer to. As you can see the fit here is satisfactory with the M301. Picture Kevko 4 indicated the location of the sum is correct (centre sump) and I assume this location of the sump is compatible with the M301-1 oil pick up tube. Is that correct Josh?

Stay with me Josh. Picture Kevko 5 is the same enginwe block as shown in picture Kevko 3 with the big difference being the second kevko oil pan (M302). As you can clearly see the clearance is the same at the "front" of the engine for both the M301 & M302. Picture Kevko 6 is the same Magnum 5.9 engine rear. See the fly wheel flange again and the clearance between the rear main bearing cap (the place where the oild pan seal goes is satisfactory....while we are still looking at this picture not the location of the oild sump and keep in mind the oil trap door locations in that sump.


It going to get a bit technical here Josh & Jason....... Note the location & side of the sum the two drain plugs are located. Does that seem a bit out of place? It should because some oil pan expert has welded the Kevko oil sump on backwards and on the wrong end of correct (as far as mounting to the engine block goes correct) core oil pan. I know this how boys. I did not just fall off the turnip truck and the hinged baffle doors are in the position to allow engine oil to move aft (towards the back) away from the pick up tub under hard acceleration or racing. I know this is allot to digest at once but, I think it will benefit you both in the future.

Buddy Josh wrote:

"As far as installing our LA pan on your magnum block, the you should have no problem at all using a one piece Magnum gasket with a good Ultra Black silicone in the corners of the timing cover, as long as your surface is prepped well. Another option we have had guys doing is using 2 different type gaskets. for instance taking part number OS32115 one piece gasket, trimming the timing cover off the gasket and using the front seal from a Felpro 1807 Kit, then just using a thin patch of Ultra black at the seam. Both cures have both been effective to use."

You best ask for you job back at Wal-Mart as a greeter because you, In my opinion do not have enough automotive experience or knowledge to make a bag for a mosquitoe. I mean it. You, the oild pan expert should of picked that up in the first pictures I send you. If you think I'm going to risk my $13,000.00 engine on idiot rigging the gasket to cover yours or Kevko's cover up, well I got some swamp land upp's hair ( up here ) in Canada for you to buy. Cheap!

Sorry does cut it by either of you two self proclaimed experts. Sorry does not the cover my time dealing with you two idiots. I'm not dissatisfied with Kevko products. I'm dissatisfied with you two no minds. You must be smoking dope if you think I'm going to keep any Kevko oil pans, follow you crafty gasket suggestions or accept a Kevko T-shirt & coozie. Get your *** to rehab pal!

Now, you two experts figure out who is going to pick up the tab. That’s your problem. I will receive the correct oil pan for my application as so many others have in 12 days from today at a cost of a standard M301 or M302 less the $64.00 in return shipping cost. 12% HAST (tax) on the value to Canada Customs, (TWICE). Your luck I do not charge you two hours of my time as an Aircraft Engineer. I have every intention of going viral, public and to Master Card fraud investigations....

Thanks you for taking the time to talk to me Jan,


Brad Allore
(Very angry for being treated like a idiot)
 

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Brad Allore
(Very angry for being treated like a idiot)


....your pan is on backwards in the photos you describe.....i hope your not to angry for it.
 
OK Guys. I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed but, I did try this oil pan both ways before climbing up on the soap box. It will only install on the engine this way. The pick up tube and timing cover/rear main cap will not allow any other installation. Take a look at blue engine picture early in this thread. Maybe it's correct but, it does look backwards to me as well. Josh at Kevko assures me it is correct.
 
The pan is sitting on the engine the correct way. The deep part goes toward the front of the engine (timing cover side). The shallow part toward the rear to provide clearance for the steering linkage. Same as a stock pan. Gap looks good on the rear with the new pan. I run the Kevko M301 on my '72 340 block and it clears my stock '69 K-frame just fine.
 
Take a look at blue engine picture early in this thread.

Blue engine? You mean my engine? It does look blue in the picture but trust me it is '69 340 turquoise Mopar Performance paint.
 

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I'd pay more to have good TIG welds or even gas. Those look like practice welds in a lawn chair factory. A cratered lap weld? Was the building on fire?
 
I'd pay more to have good TIG welds or even gas. Those look like practice welds in a lawn chair factory. A cratered lap weld? Was the building on fire?

http://www.kevkoracing.com/faq.html

I paid more to have them tig weld my M302. I believe the extra cost was $65 dollars, but thought they did an excellent job, well worth the money.

Appearance on the welds could be better, but at 189 dollars its a steal no matter how you look at it. If you are after appearance they did a great job tig welding. But either way, you cant beat the functionality.
 
Blue engine? You mean my engine? It does look blue in the picture but trust me it is '69 340 turquoise Mopar Performance paint.
Sorry, I stand corrected. That's almost as bad as saying chevy orange engine paint.......Do you have any pics of the car bottom k member area? The turquoise looks very nice. Like my old 68 Newports 440.
Cheers,
 

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This is the only one I have of the bottom but if there is a specific area you want to see and can go and snap a couple.
 

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