Are new aluminum radiators better?

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The thermal conductivity or "K" of brass is approximately 111 W/mK, aluminum is approximately 200 W/mK.
I have no dog in this hunt, just wanted to provide factual data.
Brass radiators work just fine, and are generally stronger than aluminum. Both are subject to corrosion.
Everything else being equal, aluminum will dissipate heat more quickly.
 
There is no doubt about it, aluminum WILL dissipate more quickly, but everything is NOT equal in an automotive application. The ONLY reason we have aluminum (and in most instances OEM built with plastic sides) radiators is that they are MUCH CHEAPER.
 
Let me see, a company that sells aluminum radiators says they are better. I have seen other studies that say the exact opposite. I work in the cell phone industry, analog was MUCH better than digital, but digital is MUCH cheaper, guess which one we use today...

There is no doubt about it, aluminum WILL dissipate more quickly, but everything is NOT equal in an automotive application. The ONLY reason we have aluminum (and in most instances OEM built with plastic sides) radiators is that they are MUCH CHEAPER.

Typically, at least until trump rolled them back, oem's cared far more about meeting efficiency standards and when you can run a smaller, lighter radiator, cost is irrelevant.

Aluminum offers structural advantages over brass as well, so you can make a more efficient radiator regardless of material.
 
OKay can someone send me a link to a radiator they bought that fit their 66 Dodge Dart, Valient etc? Please.
 
I now run an OER from Classic Industries ( made in USA ) Barrel top Aluminum with Two fat one inch long cores Rad....
22 inch wide with stock 16 LB Mopar Radiator cap... And 160° high flow T- Stat... and I run Cool... With clutching fan... I also was able to attach 1965 stock Optional fan shroud.. by making new brackets..

I live in Arizona and have No issues driving my 273 Commando 65 'cuda on 115° days . ... aluminum radiates more heat Quicker then brass and ...Copper is better at conducting heat than aluminum, but aluminum is able to radiate the heat into the air better than copper because of its lower density. My re-cored 3 core brass / copper radiator did "not" work near as well.. and it was a money pit..

And yes... The Aluminum radiator is 5 Lbs lighter...

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'76 F-Body. You want the one for \6 with A/C. 1 1/2" inlets. This is a 22" wide radiator. Use '75 Dart lower radiator hose, '76 F-Body upper radiator hose. The bottom mounting holes need to be redrilled. I have been running one in my '65 Dart for over 10 years without any problems.
 
I now run an OER from Classic Industries ( made in USA ) Barrel top Aluminum with Two fat one inch long cores Rad....
22 inch wide with stock 16 LB Mopar Radiator cap... And 160° high flow T- Stat... and I run Cool... With clutching fan... I also was able to attach 1965 stock Optional fan shroud.. by making new brackets..

I live in Arizona and have No issues driving my 273 Commando 65 'cuda on 115° days . ... aluminum pulls Way more heat Quicker then copper/brass... My re-cored 3 core brass radiator did "not" work near as well.. and it was a money pit...

And yes... The Aluminum radiator is 5 Lbs lighter...

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That is one sexy radiator Clifcuda65! That is the best aluminum radiator I've seen so far.
 
'76 F-Body. You want the one for \6 with A/C. 1 1/2" inlets. This is a 22" wide radiator. Use '75 Dart lower radiator hose, '76 F-Body upper radiator hose. The bottom mounting holes need to be redrilled. I have been running one in my '65 Dart for over 10 years without any problems.
I dont have AC in my 66 though
I now run an OER from Classic Industries ( made in USA ) Barrel top Aluminum with Two fat one inch long cores Rad....
22 inch wide with stock 16 LB Mopar Radiator cap... And 160° high flow T- Stat... and I run Cool... With clutching fan... I also was able to attach 1965 stock Optional fan shroud.. by making new brackets..

I live in Arizona and have No issues driving my 273 Commando 65 'cuda on 115° days . ... aluminum pulls Way more heat Quicker then copper/brass... My re-cored 3 core brass radiator did "not" work near as well.. and it was a money pit...

And yes... The Aluminum radiator is 5 Lbs lighter...

View attachment 1715207731 View attachment 1715207733
Im looking on their site and not seeing that. Can you send me a link please?
 
[QUOTE="66DartSedan, post: 1972184018, member:

Im looking on their site and not seeing that. Can you send me a link please?[/QUOTE]

I don't have a link... Will this help? Mine is the one listed as MA2235.... 1965... 66 would be same rad...

I bought mine when they had it on Sale... Saved a bunch ....

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Who cares, my Dart dosen't have A/C either. I bought mine from O'Reilys.
 
Who cares, my Dart dosen't have A/C either. I bought mine from O'Reilys.
Can you send me the link please? my 66 Slant 6 170 2.8L has a pass side outlet and center inlet, cant seem to find specs on the exact size core.

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I sold my 65 Blue Dart in April, but still have a good used spare radiator that was once in it. Yours for Cheap, but shipping from San Diego is an issue. Here it sits.
 
Keep in mind that the core of a "brass" radiator is copper. Copper is a far better conductor than aluminum. It's still pretty much apples to oranges as most aluminum radiators have a different core density which is optimized to aluminum. End result is both work just fine when properly sized and in good working order. An aluminum radiator is lighter, but once you fill it up with water the difference is small, especially if it has more rows and holds more water. Aluminum is a LOT cheaper than copper. That's why most OEM radiators have been aluminum for the last 30 years or so. Copper/brass radiators can be easily repaired, aluminum, especially epoxy set cores, not so much.

Bottom line, a new aluminum radiator will probably work better than a 50 year old corroded up copper/brass unit. But a new copper/brass radiator will probably also work better. Aluminum replacement radiators are readily available and affordable. And if it gets you back on the road, isn't that the point.
 
Are aluminum radiators better? I've never owned one, so I can't say. Here's what I do know. When I bought my 225 powered 74 Duster two years ago, it had an aftermarket crappy radiator in it. Since I love the factory stock look, I found a correct original radiatior for the Duster at a salvage yard. These radiators are surprisingly difficult to find. Anyhow, I had a talented radiator guy here in Minneapolis completely rebuild it. He hot tanked and disassembled it, resoldered everything and installed a new two row high efficiency copper core. I declined the three row core as he said it wasn't factory stock, and also was unnecessary. He was right. I installed it with a new FSM spec 195 degree Stant Super Stat, all new MOPAR hoses with correct spring clamps, a new copper heater core and new water pump. Charged it all with the correct 50/50 Prestone mix. It runs perfectly, reliably and leak free, and never gets over 195 degrees even on the hottest days - all without a fan shroud. All the math and physics about heat transfer between aluminum and copper that I read here is correct, I'm sure. But does it really make any difference in your car. Nope. The stock factory ones are just fine. Chrysler used brass tank/copper core radiators for decades, as did all the other manufacturers. Thousands and thousands of aircraft in World War Two used them with great success. So do you really need to change to an aluminum radiator in your ride in August of 2018? No, unless you like the look, or the weight savings. Like anything else MOPAR, if it's installed, set up and maintained correctly with fresh clean coolant, your vintage radiator will be just fine. I try not to think about this stuff too much. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Comments?
 
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