Bill, try running a wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil and see if it'll go. The ignition switch might be bad.
Arrrgh....
- Thread starter Bill Dedman
- Start date
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1wild&crazyguy
Banned
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
even if it was stabbed wrong you'd still get spark, unless the condenser is junk..
so now you've just narrowed it to the condensor,coil, ballast, the condensor you'll just have to change.....but then after that run the 12v like stroker said and lets rule out the ballast and find wether the coil is a turd for the sake of it
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The ballast is not even in the circuit (points/ 4 pin ECU) when cranking/ starting WITH THE KEY
You need to stop screwing with this.
1: Get spark. Review the posts here and GET SPARK. One reason I suggested earlier that you lay out the dist on a bench is that you obviously had the dist in / out and have more than one, and it's kind'a a pain on /6s to lean way down there
2: Check cam is rotating and that it is at least in the ballpark for CAM timing, IE you did not screw up the cam drive marks. One way to do this is bring the no1 piston up TDC with both valves OPEN. Most stock engines are "close" (but not necessarily) "split overlap" with piston at TDC. This means that one valve is opening, the other is closing, and they are equally open
I emphasize that this is only 'ballpark' as modern cam timing on smog/ performance cams means that "split overlap" has not been an accurate "thing" for a long time
If you have not done so, determine TRUE timing mark accuracy by using a piston stop.
3: Bring the no1 piston up to TDC with both valves closed, rotate CCW enough to remove cam drive slack, then rotate back CW until "marks" are about what you want for timing, IE say, 6 BTC or so
4: Install dist, rotor pointing "where you want" no1 tower to be, then rotate dist. so points JUST opened. Do this either by turning on ignition and rotating dist "for a spark" at points, or use a test lamp on points.
It is important to understand that on most (these) engines, the no1 tower does NOT have to specific. On these engines, you can just "throw" the dist in wherever, bring the no1 marks up, and plug the no1 wire in wherever the rotor is pointing.
5: Do not assume gas is fresh unless YOU put it there. Otherwise, prime carb down the throat with KNOWN fresh fuel Check plugs for fouling
6: START the engine
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
yeah and it will catch but not run still...
AND BTW I always use a trigger for the starter or jump the switch on the fender when Im breaking a motor/cam in...never use the key besides putting it into the run position....and you dont worry about whos screwing with what.
and if that wasnt directed at me.. then ignore that.
AND BTW I always use a trigger for the starter or jump the switch on the fender when Im breaking a motor/cam in...never use the key besides putting it into the run position....and you dont worry about whos screwing with what.
and if that wasnt directed at me.. then ignore that.
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