Attempt at test running a Magnum

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Second start after advancing the distributor. I know, not the right thing to do. Ran a little better, but still extremely rich. At the end of the video you can see my improvised "fuel cell."
 
What in the Gargoyle is this??

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The answer is, !!!!NO!!!! I am NOT going to allow "Google" to have access to "necessary cookies!!!!"
 
tcanin00 said:
I'm not sure what's going on with that. I uploaded the videos to Google Docs so I could post them. Was it both videos, or just the second?
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It’s both. Load em to you tube and post a link.
 
For some reason YouTube isn't letting me upload videos without going through a verification process.

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Until they figure out I am actually me, here's a video from 5 years ago of how bad the engine ran in the Dakota.

Let me know if this video works or Google is trying to spy on you for thinking about watching it.
 
That vid worked, and I agree, it was not running good. At all.
 
TT5.9mag said:
That vid worked, and I agree, it was not running good. At all.
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Glad that video worked.
The Dakota's organs were harvested at my buddy's shop and didn't have time to troubleshoot why it ran so bad. After pulling the engine I found the CPS had been broken and taped back together. Well there's your problem. That, and the exhaust system was about to fall off.
 
Bad coolant temp sensor can make em run ridiculous rich. My '93 would run great and as soon as you shut it off and tried to restart, it was flooded and belching raw fuel out the exhaust. The coolant temp sensor was showing 17 degrees in the computer on a 70 degree day, even though the gage in the dash was acting normally.

I had to use a Snap On scanner to be able to see the data being reported to the computer. A code reader couldn't do it.
 
jos51700 said:
Bad coolant temp sensor can make em run ridiculous rich. My '93 would run great and as soon as you shut it off and tried to restart, it was flooded and belching raw fuel out the exhaust. The coolant temp sensor was showing 17 degrees in the computer on a 70 degree day, even though the gage in the dash was acting normally.

I had to use a Snap On scanner to be able to see the data being reported to the computer. A code reader couldn't do it.
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The coolant temp sensor was broken, too. You would think if the temp sensor was bad it throw a CEL.
 
tcanin00 said:
The coolant temp sensor was broken, too. You would think if the temp sensor was bad it throw a CEL.
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I'm not sure, but I think there's two. One for the gauges, and one for the computer, but my truck NEVER threw a CEL even though the two didn't jive.
I could be wrong on this, but I seem to remember having to guess at which one it was and I got lucky.
 
jos51700 said:
I'm not sure, but I think there's two. One for the gauges, and one for the computer, but my truck NEVER threw a CEL even though the two didn't jive.
I could be wrong on this, but I seem to remember having to guess at which one it was and I got lucky.
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Yes, there are two. The one for the gauge only has one wire and the one for the computer has two.
 
tcanin00 said:
The coolant temp sensor was broken, too. You would think if the temp sensor was bad it throw a CEL.
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You have to remember the sensors are just inputting data to the PCM. If the sensor is reading within its programmed limits the PCM just thinks the reading is accurate and makes the necessary adjustments. Codes set when readings are out of range, not varying like they should, or not as expected based on other inputs. When @jos51700 temp was reading 17 degrees, that is perfectly normal. Heck, it's five degrees here in Michigan right now. So that is in an acceptable range even though it was way too low and caused a rich condition.
 
Bobzilla said:
You have to remember the sensors are just inputting data to the PCM. If the sensor is reading within its programmed limits the PCM just thinks the reading is accurate and makes the necessary adjustments. Codes set when readings are out of range, not varying like they should, or not as expected based on other inputs. When @jos51700 temp was reading 17 degrees, that is perfectly normal. Heck, it's five degrees here in Michigan right now. So that is in an acceptable range even though it was way too low and caused a rich condition.
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That makes sense.
 
Ignition timing is not adjustable since the PCM takes care of that based on crankshaft position. Turning the distributor just moves rotor phasing and screws with injector timing.
Here is a video by utawesome performance that shows where to position the distributor for a really good base setting of the distributor cam synch. Once there, don't screw with it unless using a scan tool.

 
Bobzilla said:
You have to remember the sensors are just inputting data to the PCM. If the sensor is reading within its programmed limits the PCM just thinks the reading is accurate and makes the necessary adjustments. Codes set when readings are out of range, not varying like they should, or not as expected based on other inputs. When @jos51700 temp was reading 17 degrees, that is perfectly normal. Heck, it's five degrees here in Michigan right now. So that is in an acceptable range even though it was way too low and caused a rich condition.
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Agreed, and precisely why later control modules use redundant sensors, current draw to o2 heaters, etc, to verify sensor data.

If I'm not mistaken, the intake air temp sensor on the magnum was supposed to be the redundant sensor, but who knows what the variance set as 'tolerable' was. And on my '93, maybe they hadn't got that far yet.
 
Bobzilla said:
Ignition timing is not adjustable since the PCM takes care of that based on crankshaft position. Turning the distributor just moves rotor phasing and screws with injector timing.
Here is a video by utawesome performance that shows where to position the distributor for a really good base setting of the distributor cam synch. Once there, don't screw with it unless using a scan tool.

Click to expand...

Thanks for posting the video. I'll have to watch it and set the base timing for ccam sync.
 
I really appreciate the time and knowledge you guys have given me.
Once I get the garage straightened out I'll continue with the engine swap. For the time being ill run it on the Dakota's OBD I computer, but I have a couple of options for engine management and I would like your opinions. I know the factory system has vary little tolerance for aftermarket parts, like the cam and intake. I don't plan on building a race engine or using any power adders like a turbo or super charger.
1. I have the engine bay harness, PDC, and OBD II PCM from possibly a '96 Dakota. The reason I say possible 1996 is that I bought an AX15 transmission from the guy who said it came from that year truck. He also had the harness and two PCM's, one has a Mopar update from 2001 if I'm not mistaken. I assumed the harness was from the same truck and forgot to ask him about it.
2. I built an MS3X for a project years ago but sold the car before I messed with installing it. I know it can do 8 cylinder sequential injection among other things. I understand the wiring and hardware aspect of stand alone systems, but not so much the tuning side of it. There are very good build threads on using MS controllers on Magnum engines with the stock flywheel/trigger wheel and cam sync sensor.
My question is what would make the most sense to install?
 
For your goals? None of them. Use the obd2 ecu and get hp tuners. Find a local tuner to tune it. Or contact Ryan at FRP and have a mail order tune done.
 
TT5.9mag said:
For your goals? None of them. Use the obd2 ecu and get hp tuners. Find a local tuner to tune it. Or contact Ryan at FRP and have a mail order tune done.
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Sending the OBD II PCM out might be the most cost effective solution. I just want to drive this car and do some cone dodging/autocross with it.
 
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