Available soon - 69 barracuda fastback body shell for drag car

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jimharvard

JimHarvard
FABO Gold Member
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Location
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American Metal Direct in Georgia is restoring a M-Code Barracuda for me that was converted into a drag car. i purchased a 69 stripped body shell as a parts car for that project. when AMD is done with the parts car, i'd like to sell it to someone who can use it - like for building a drag car. i have the title, original fender tag and VIN number for the body shell. i don't want to just scrap this body shell because it came from out west and is rust free.

AMD has cut the middle and back half "drag race" floor pan out of the M car. i've asked them to save all those parts. someone building a drag car could weld these parts into the body shell they took the original OEM middle and back half floor pan out of.

let me know if you would be interested in buying this body shell. AMD will probably be done with this project in about 30 days. they are in Cleveland, Georgia.

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No, i'm not a potential buyer, Jim.
But i am curious about how much you would want for the car with the parts.
I have a similar shell in roughly the same condition (an ex race car '69 340 Formula S fastback) that is a little more complete and am wondering what i should ask for it?
I hope you aren't offended by this and i am not trying to hijack your thread by any means!
We live on opposite sides of the country and i'm just north of the Montana border in Canada, so i don't think i'm being out of line and taking a potential sale out of your hands.
I have read a lot of your posts, and you seem to be an expert on these cars, and that's why i'm asking...........
I might just end up keeping the darn thing and building it myself!
Thanks,
Tom.
 
No, i'm not a potential buyer, Jim.
But i am curious about how much you would want for the car with the parts.
I have a similar shell in roughly the same condition (an ex race car '69 340 Formula S fastback) that is a little more complete and am wondering what i should ask for it?
I hope you aren't offended by this and i am not trying to hijack your thread by any means!
We live on opposite sides of the country and i'm just north of the Montana border in Canada, so i don't think i'm being out of line and taking a potential sale out of your hands.
I have read a lot of your posts, and you seem to be an expert on these cars, and that's why i'm asking...........
I might just end up keeping the darn thing and building it myself!
Thanks,
Tom.


hi dartnut..

no problem with your question - glad to help if i can. numbers are in U.S. dollars.

the guy i bought the body shell from originally wanted $1700 for it on ebay. he didn't have any takers so i made an offer of $1200 and he accepted it. however, the seller had accumulated a lot of parts to build the body shell and because the shell was leaving, he filled up the car with lots and lots of parts - and added 4 more separate boxes of stuff. so i got a very good deal as i now have about $1000 worth of parts to sell - and the body shell is sitting on four brand new casters worth about $400. but bear in mind i did have to spend $1600 to have the shell brought from NY to Pittsburgh then Pittsburgh to AMD in Cleveland, GA.

the body shell is going to have the floor cut out of it but the drag car floor AMD is taking out of my other car will fit the parts car and will go with the car when i sell it. i probably will also throw in the roller casters, although i'm not sure of that yet. it will depend on how much i can get out of the shell.

the least expensive fastback barracuda that could be made into a drag car that i've seen for sale over the last 2 years that was not completely rusted out was listed for $2500. no engine or trans was included for this price. "complete" barracudas that need a lot of work but could still be saved can be bought for between $3500-$4500. when i say "complete" i mean fenders, doors, trunk lid, hood, most or all of interior, dash, front and rear wheels and generally, no motor or trans, but a couple of cars did have engines in pieces that went with them.

now i have seen "basket case" barracudas that need A LOT of work being listed on ebay for $7500-$8500. but i have never seen any of those cars sell for that amount of money.

i'm going to try and get $1000 out of my body shell with the drag prepped floor pans and the casters. if i keep the casters, i'll probably sell the car for 600.00 i don't know how complete your car is but if it is a basic body shell it's worth at least $1000. the more complete it is the more it's worth. so up to $2000 would not be unreasonable if it's pretty much all there and does not have a lot of rust.

here's pictures of my body shell and some examples of cars that have sold on ebay recently. the white car sold for $2400, the black one, $3200 and the red car $3600, but the red car was complete with a 318 and 727 trans and air conditioning. i thought the red car was a pretty good deal. i have more pics of the sold cars if you're interested.

if you have more questions, let me know...

jim coster
pittsburgh, pa

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Thanks for your time and advice, Jim.
Glad i didn't cramp your style!
I can post pics of the car i have if you are interested in seeing them and the condition as it sits..........
The problem that i have is, i don't have much for exterior and interior parts for the car, so it would have to be a race car if i kept it, or i would pass it on to someone that has a rusty car that could donate all of the interior and drive train.
It has the fender tag though and it shows as a Y2 yellow car with black stripes and a black and white interior with 340 and a console auto originally.
A great combination in my books.......
Thanks again,
Tom Zimmer
Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
 
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Thanks for your time and advice, Jim.
Glad i didn't cramp your style!
I can post pics of the car i have if you are interested in seeing them and the condition as it sits..........
The problem that i have is, i don't have much for exterior and interior parts for the car, so it would have to be a race car if i kept it, or i would pass it on to someone that has a rusty car that could donate all of the interior and drive train.
It has the fender tag though and it shows as a Y2 yellow car with black stripes and a black and white interior with 340 and a console auto originally.
A great combination in my books.......
Thanks again,
Tom Zimmer
Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada

hi tom....

if you could post a couple of pics of your car i could probably give you a better estimate of value. AND someone here on FABO might see it and get in touch.

hope the winter is ending "up there"...

jim
 
hi tom....

if you could post a couple of pics of your car i could probably give you a better estimate of value. AND someone here on FABO might see it and get in touch.

hope the winter is ending "up there"...

jim
Thanks for the words of encouragement, i certainly hope winter ends here soon too!
Well, here's a few pics, as i said, it rough and butchered, but saveable.........

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The blue (white) '67 parts car has a beautiful rust free rear floor that could be used in the '69 to fix the back half if someone wanted to fix the car up with an original rear half including frame rails.
The '67 was hit hard on the driver's side and stripped before i got it. The roof is gone now too.
As you can see, the front floors are not good, but the car is good from the rear seat area back.

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hi tom,

your cars are rough but they are still valuable. i don't think either one rises to the level of the white car that i posted that sold for $2400. however, each one of the cars should bring at least $1200-$1500. however, if someone wants to buy these cars to rebuild and license them, you will need to have titles for them - assuming that your canadian province issues titles for 69 model year vehicles. if you don't have titles and the legal way that you purchased these cars did not provide for titles, then some kind of "bill of sale" documents verifying your purchase will be required. whether or not you have titles "may or may not" be a "deal breaker" to a buyer in the U.S. depending upon whether the State the buyer lives in does or does not issue titles for older cars. some of our States do not.

my advice is to try and sell these cars as a pair. in looking over the cars, i believe both of them together would provide enough parts for about 80% of "one car." sold as a pair, i would ask $3500 but be willing to take $2500. bear in mind from the red and black cars i posted, a "complete" but very rough barracuda can be purchased for around $3000-$3500. with the amount of work it would take to "make one car out of two", you would have to give a buyer a price incentive to buy your cars.

i would also suggest that you CLEAN OUT both cars and SCRUB the floor pans as clean as possible!! floor pan rust is a MAJOR issue with these cars so a potential buyer needs to be able to see the actual condition the floors are in. from what i can tell, i think both cars have pretty good floor pans. AND, line up all the parts together as a separate picture. anyone wanting one of these cars will recognize the parts that you show. be sure to put ALL the parts you have in the picture. lastly, make sure the cars are DRY inside and out then take a number of pictures showing the interior, front, rear and both sides of BOTH CARS. if you can, take pictures of the front and rear frame rails of each car. that is also an area that is prone to rust and frame rails in "good condition" can be a very strong selling point. as i said, take pictures of the cars DRY and DO NOT use a flash! flashes tend to make a rough car look even worse than it is. as silly as it sounds, you should try and "clean up" as much of the inside and outside of these cars as you can. you would be surprised how much "just being clean" will do for appearence - and just cleaning something is not an attempt to "hide" bad conditions.

i've bought and sold cars for 50 years. every car i've sold i've tried to make it look as good as possible without attempting to "cover up" a problem. believe it or not, some buyers will "not" buy a "dirty" car but "will" buy the "same" car if cleaned up!!

good luck!! if you have any other questions, let me know. i hope i've provided something of value for you to think about.

ps. i forgot, look under the cars and make sure you list whether one or both have the 8 3/4 rear diff or the smaller "non-posi" diff. just a complete 8 3/4 rear axle assembly is worth around $800.00 and don't forget to mention whether the front wheels are discs or drums.
 
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Thanks for the advice, Jim.
First, i agree with cleaning the cars up.
In my defense, these pictures were taken for my posterity and not intended to be ''for sale'' pics.
Both cars are rollers now, with a 7 1/4 in the blue car, and a narrowed 9'' in the red one with unknown gears etc. and both cars are manual steering and 10'' drum brake cars. I do have a bare 8 3/4 a-body housing that i could include with the car as well as a console and gauge cluster, steering column, wiring etc. to make it more complete.
As for the floors, the blue one has holes in the front, so they are toast and the floor in the red car is pretty rust free, but it is butchered badly with a hole cut for a 4 speed and several holes here and there for seat mounts, the cobbled together cage, other brackets etc. that goes with a crudely built race car as you can imagine. The cage has been cut out for the most part already.
I would just replace the floor, as trying to repair what i have would be more time consuming than it's worth even though i have the parts off of other cars to do this repair.
The red car is a dormant car or considered ''abandoned'' by the province because it has not been registered for over 20 years and would need a full ''out of province'' inspection.

As far as titles and such go, here in Alberta, the process is pretty easy and straight forward if you are the person buying the car and everything is in order.
Cars are sold with a bill of sale only (except new cars) and to get paperwork in your name requires a bill of sale from the previous owner, the registry department checks the status of the vehicle, then they determine if it is ''active'' which means that it has been on the road and registered in the last 20 years, and it has been last registered in Alberta, and there is no ''holds''.
If there is a ''hold'' on the vehicle, the onus is on you the buyer to remove the ''hold''. It could be anything from a stolen vehicle that has been reported or an outstanding lien against the car.
If the answer is yes and the car is ''active'' and free and clear of all liens, then you need to get a simple ''safety'' mechanical inspection and then they will register it in your name.
If the answer is no, or you buy the car from another province or country, then they will require that the vehicle has a comprehensive mechanical inspection or as it is known here as an ''out of province'' inspection, which the mechanical shop goes over the car with a fine tooth comb and determine the car's overall condition from rips in the seats to faded marker light lenses. They can be pretty anal about it if they want to be.
Still, you only need to provide a bill of sale as above for it, unless it came from another province of country and in the case of an import, you need to provide customs documents etc to prove that you imported it correctly and all fees have been paid. If from another province in Canada, you must provide the correct paperwork from the seller to you as required in that province.
If for example you buy a car from a farm yard that has been sitting for years and not registered, (or a race car in this case) it could be from anywhere and would be considered as an abandoned vehicle, and if the V.I.N. isn't on the computer and there is no ''holds'', it is considered as an abandoned vehicle and would be subject to an ''out of province'' inspection after it was fixed up and then registered in your name.
The costs associated are:
Registration after inspection about $80.00 per year
Safety inspection about $60.00
Out of Province inspection about $140.00

I know that you are a lawyer, Jim, and i thought that you would find this interesting.............
(It sure could have a lot of legal loopholes and ''caveat emptor'' would apply a lot here!)
Thanks,
Tom.
 
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Thanks for the advice, Jim.
First, i agree with cleaning the cars up.
In my defense, these pictures were taken for my posterity and not intended to be ''for sale'' pics.
Both cars are rollers now, with a 7 1/4 in the blue car, and a narrowed 9'' in the red one with unknown gears etc. and both cars are manual steering and 10'' drum brake cars. I do have a bare 8 3/4 a-body housing that i could include with the car as well as a console and gauge cluster, steering column, wiring etc. to make it more complete.
As for the floors, the blue one has holes in the front, so they are toast and the floor in the red car is pretty rust free, but it is butchered badly with a hole cut for a 4 speed and several holes here and there for seat mounts, the cobbled together cage, other brackets etc. that goes with a crudely built race car as you can imagine. The cage has been cut out for the most part already.
I would just replace the floor, as trying to repair what i have would be more time consuming than it's worth even though i have the parts off of other cars to do this repair.
The red car is a dormant car or considered ''abandoned'' by the province because it has not been registered for over 20 years and would need a full ''out of province'' inspection.

As far as titles and such go, here in Alberta, the process is pretty easy and straight forward if you are the person buying the car and everything is in order.
Cars are sold with a bill of sale only (except new cars) and to get paperwork in your name requires a bill of sale from the previous owner, the registry department checks the status of the vehicle, then they determine if it is ''active'' which means that it has been on the road and registered in the last 20 years, and it has been last registered in Alberta, and there is no ''holds''.
If there is a ''hold'' on the vehicle, the onus is on you the buyer to remove the ''hold''. It could be anything from a stolen vehicle that has been reported or an outstanding lien against the car.
If the answer is yes and the car is ''active'' and free and clear of all liens, then you need to get a simple ''safety'' mechanical inspection and then they will register it in your name.
If the answer is no, or you buy the car from another province or country, then they will require that the vehicle has a comprehensive mechanical inspection or as it is known here as an ''out of province'' inspection, which the mechanical shop goes over the car with a fine tooth comb and determine the car's overall condition from rips in the seats to faded marker light lenses. They can be pretty anal about it if they want to be.
Still, you only need to provide a bill of sale as above for it, unless it came from another province of country and in the case of an import, you need to provide customs documents etc to prove that you imported it correctly and all fees have been paid. If from another province in Canada, you must provide the correct paperwork from the seller to you as required in that province.
If for example you buy a car from a farm yard that has been sitting for years and not registered, (or a race car in this case) it could be from anywhere and would be considered as an abandoned vehicle, and if the V.I.N. isn't on the computer and there is no ''holds'', it is considered as an abandoned vehicle and would be subject to an ''out of province'' inspection after it was fixed up and then registered in your name.
The costs associated are:
Registration after inspection about $80.00 per year
Safety inspection about $60.00
Out of Province inspection about $140.00

I know that you are a lawyer, Jim, and i thought that you would find this interesting.............
(It sure could have a lot of legal loopholes and ''caveat emptor'' would apply a lot here!)
Thanks,
Tom.


thanks tom for the information....

i see cars all the time on ebay that are in canada and the canadian title information is very helpful to know ... for anyone here on FABO...

i hope if you do decide to sell these cars that they do go to someone who wants to rebuild them. once they go to a "farm yard" ("junkyard" here in the states) they can end up rusting into the ground or being sent to a crusher. as far as i know, chrysler isn't making any more new 69 barracudas.

good luck with your cars...
 
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