B body rear install

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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What should be done to this rear before I put it in, besides moving the perches in? Im going to leave it with the length it is.
 
I may be wrong but i think with offset shackles they,ll work.The rest is all rim backspacing
 
true, but that cost what 60 plus? All I have to o is re weld the perches
 
The extra length is actually a plus because the front track is wider than the rear to allow for big block installs. Improves handling I'm sure.
 
I heard of that becasue I think thats why some imports use spacers. To push wheels out and have better handling.


DD: Haha I wish I had a shop, just the good old garage and my friend who welds all my stuff up for me

But what else should be done before I put this thing in? Its gotta need some stuff. Im going to replace the Fluid and Gasket for the 741 housing and some other seals, Are Green bearings a must?
 
74Burntorange said:
Are Green bearings a must?
Click to expand...

NO I have heard that besides being a flat bearing about half the time they don't seat right. Thats just what I have heard. That being said I think I am going to buy axles for Tara's dart that have them already installed.
 
I'd skip the green bearings. They're easier to install, but they don't handle side loading very well at all. Better to stick with the original's and just adjust them properly.
 
just clean and paint check tooth contact patern when changing gasket and for sure new axle seals and backing plate gaskets. pull vent bolt and check for blockage also. if its full ot crud the fluid will leak when it pressurizes hot.
 
ok kool, What do i do for fluid? Royal purple? what about for sure grip?
 
save your money, any 90-140 or equivalent with additives for posi or sure grip will work. i run castrol
 
All I done was put the rear under the car, installed the U-bolt on one side. Then with a little work put the other U-bolt in. No cutting, no welding. My car is a 71 Swinger. Now I have pulled it out to freshen it up with new bearing and seals, paint and oh ya, put under the new 71 Swinger. The wheels were a 7in with like 3 in backspace. The right tire rubbed the lip just a little. So I would think a 3.5 or 4 in BS would fit real good.
 
3.5 to 4 in backspace with a 10 in weld with a rolled fender lip on your bodystyle with an a rear gonna need 5 to 6 for a 10 in rim and break out the welder for a spring locate i know for a fact. its done on my swinger

66painted032.jpg
 
with exra axle width may not work. put car on jackstands and tuck tires and rims under with 1/2 in. clearance and get a flange to flangwe measurement . then measure axle same or less youre good while tires are there measure back to springs so you know how much shorter will fit alsotydn
 
somethings screwy on this site my computer cant delete to edit may be my computers hot
 
I dont under stand? Wont it be the same as my current rear just the wheels will be pushed out further?
 
with your wheel pushed out farther on an axle that is wider will cause your tire to hit the wheel lip and cut the tire. So your 8in wheel with 4.5 in backspace should work, you may need to trim your wheel lip just a little.
 
I have SS Springs so it is hire than stock but if it hits I will trim
 
The rear is 1.5" wider on each side than an A body 8.75 rear. 60 1/8 vs 57 1/8 total width if it's a 68-70 B rear.

A 15x8 will probably need about 5.5 bs to put the tire back in the stock wheel/rear location. 15x10's need 7-7.5 bs.

The perches are 1/2" further out on each side. Just pull the springs out the 1/2" each side and bolt it in. If you really want, move the perches. It's not necessary and there are more than a few A's wtih stock B length rears in them with no problems and the stock B perch location.
 
ook that sounds great then. Do you reccomend I do anyhting besides replace the oil?
o and its an earlier B body rear A-body, 65-72 55.6 43.0 4" lug bolt circle,
offered in heavy duty apps.
B-body, 62-70 59.2 44.0
 
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