bad distributor?

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Plato2k5

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So I have been having issues with my Jeep with a small block 360 LA. I run a megasquirt ECU and while cranking my tach on the computer goes crazy. It will spike past 10k. So, it will not want to start since it thinks it is spinning fast and is requiring more fuel causing it to just flood out.

I took the cap off and I can wiggle the shaft a good bit... 1/8" or a little less. Either way its noticeable.

I also put an adjustable timing light on it and it jumps around. Also, when I go to start it sometimes it acts as if timing is off.... the starter kickback happens.

Now I have a off-road trip planned this Thursday and think I need to replace the distributor. Rite now its just the stock unit with the dual pickup (only use one pickup) wired to a MSD 6AL box and blaster coil.

The engine is around 10:1, aggressive cam, flat top pistons, headers, yada, yada, yada.

So will a stock replacement from the parts store for $40 work ok? I do not use the vac. advance since I do not make any at idle. I do not have the funds to buy a MSD or Mallory or spend $400.

Thanks for the help!

Kirk
 
if its 1/8" side to side play then yes the bushings are bad and the reluctor is likely hitting the pickup, stock replacement with single pickup will work fine
 
Also it might be good to note that I do not spin this past 5,500 rpm.

Do I have to mess with the mechanical weights at all? or just drop the stocker in and go? I'm sure it will be better then what I have now!!!!
 
Your dist. is bad with that much play.

If you have a dual pickup, with no vacuum, you probably are controlling the advance with the MS, right?

If so you do NOT want a "parts store" with a vacuum advance. You want one from something like a lean burn, which has NO advance, either mechanical or vacuum

When you get time, I wish you'd start a thread detailing your MS project. I'm currently running a Holley Commander 950, and am thinking of going MS, and hope to convert to multiport injection instead of TBI
 
Not using Ms to control timming. Just mechanical weights in the dist. So I should be ok with a sticker.....?

I had no idea you were interested on the Ms. Ill get some stuff wrote down and start a new thread soon.
 
OK, that's wierd. I did not think, or did I misunderstand? That Ma used any dual pickups with mechanical advance? Can you "spring" the rotor a few degrees?

Since you are using, or are wanting to use mech. advance, I would not buy a stocker unless you are broke, or want to recurve it. None of the rebuilds have a performance curve in 'em, they are all "smoggers." I have an Accel "look alike," IE looks like a Mopar, but has the Mallory style adjustable advance.

You COULD also buy a stocker cheap and then get the FBO advance plate limiter kit.

You want any small block from 72? forward, if they show a difference, get one for a 360 performance application, LOL, you might get lucky. (70's 360 Duster/ Dart, etc)


Thanks in advance on the MS
 
I ordered one from a 88 w150. I'm broke and can't afford a good one. Link for a recurve kit?
 
No it was carb.

I had total advance around 32 or 33* so I know it has me mechanical weights. I don't understand timming with weights and such
 
Do some searching here. Lots and lots on this. Search stuff like timing, "degree balancer," "timing tape," "piston stop." If you can't find anything interesting post back here on that.
 
I did google after posting. I guess i had no idea it was that in depth.

I'll just have to run it the way it is for now when I put this refurb unit in. I don't have time to order and wait on parts. I never have had an issue with detonation with 93 at the sand dunes.
 
IF the dist are the same style then swap the weights and spring.
That way, it will act the same as before. Then later you can dial in the timing, to work better then before.;)
 
Just wanted to let ya all know I did get it all figured out. Ordered the lockout plate and its dialed in nicely. I can run 87 octane with no detonation while doing big sand hill climbs.

thanks for the help fellow Mopar friends!
 
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