I already explained why i wanted push button. The key was not working for 2 years and I even did an extensive post on here about how leaving the door open, and the car would start. A very weird ignition circuit issue, which even people in this thread said “I have to admit this is one of the strangest problems I have read”..
Besides that I wanted to bypass the system all together. I truly feel I have it correctly wired for my application but something happened at the shop that is screwing with the car. I will have to spend all day reading and understanding if there is any long/short term problem to push button In a 73 dart sport with electronic ignition, without extensive complete new wiring harness.
I have read 67dart273’s post on how I have inherently changed the ign1 and ign2 circuit but I can’t quite get an ultimate understanding. I have ordered some brand new wiring diagrams to possibly make better sense.
Thanks.
OK let's go through this again
The ignition switch has B for BATTERY and that is the ONLY power going into the switch
The ACC (accessory) output feeds out to the buss in the fuse box for acessories and is hot in BOTH "run" and "acc" and is cold in "start."
The S START terminal is only hot in "start" and this of course goes out into the bay to trigger the starter
This leaves IGN1 and IGN2
IGN1 is "run" and this IS ONLY HOT in "run." This is of course dead in the accessory position. BUT........This goes DEAD in "start." This feeds things like the cluster gauges, brake warning lamp, oil pressure light, and out into the bay for the ignition system VR power, alternator field, electric choke if used, and on later cars, some smog doo dads
IT IS IMPORTANT to remember that THIS feeds TO the ballast and therefore drops ignition system (coil) voltage down AT THE COIL
PART OF THE REASON the IGN1 goes dead in "start" is to unload the battery so the voltage does not drop. It also prevends backfeed into stuff like the radio through the accessory circuit, etc.
NOW IGN2: This is to bypass the coil ballast DURING START in order to provide hot spark for starting. It is ONLY HOT in "start" just like the "S" START terminal, except they are different switch contacts just like having two separate switches.
IGN2 feeds power out of the ignition switch, through the firewall, AND TO THE COIL + side of the ballast This is a DIRECT CONNECTION from coil--bulkhead connector--ignition switch--and back to the battery so that the coil gets full voltage
SO when you are in START with the key here is what you have:
ACC is dead
IGN1 "run" is dead
S START is cranking the starter
And IGN2 is hot, feeding full battery to the coil + for start
WHY IS THIS DIFFERENT than your push button?
BECAUSE you only have ONE ignition supply circuit, AND YOU HAVE NO WAY to dump other loads like the ignition switch does. Anything at all and all of it that is on your "run" switch is ALL hot with that switch on, in start
THIS MEANS that
When you push the start button, the starter cranks, loads down the battery from the normal "run / charging" voltage of about 14V --the starter drags that voltage down to perhaps 11V. OR LESS ON a cold day or if the battery is a little bit low.
NOW you take that low 11V voltage and YOU STILL HAVE TO RUN it through the ballast resistor to get to the coil. Normally, with key on/ engine stopped and battery fully charged, the coil sees maybe 6-8V BUT NOW WHEN CRANKING and feeding the system through that toggle you are down at 11V OR LESS TO THE BALLAST. This means you may only see 4-5 Volts AT THE COIL.
The thing may start OK, until it is a cold morning, or a hot day and a little bit flooded, etc etc in other words difficult starting condition.
I DO NOT UNDERSTAND why you want to screw around and not just replace the ignition switch.
But if you insist on keeping this toggle / push button thing, you are going to have to fix this to get good start performance
There are a few ways............
1...Buy the later model "Jeep" start relay which has a separate extra contact.
2...Add a separate Bosch relay, triggered by the push button, and rigged to feed power to the coil +
3....Add a diode from the output of the push button to coil +
4....If you have a stick and not an automatic, replace the start relay with an old style Ford starter solenoid. (4 post)
