Bmsjax
Well-Known Member
I picked up a BB 727 but it has a solid yoke instead of i slip yoke like the SB 904 had. Is this gonna need to be changed to a slip yoke? Can that be done?
BB 727 yoke question
- Thread starter Bmsjax
- Start date
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..............To change it over u need a donor trans so u can use the tail shaft and tail housing....from a car if u have a consol.........or switch the internals into a car tranny.........kim.......
Yup the one you have probably came out of a motor home.
Bmsjax
Well-Known Member
Would I need ANY 727 or does it have to be a BB one? Would it be better to just find a correct tail shaft 727? The one I have was part of a package deal so i'm not really loosin out on money...
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Any 727 car or light truck SB or BB trans. will work if it's the right year. The front spline angle on the output shaft was changed twice in the run (66-75, 76-89, and 90 up). You need to identify what year trans. you have and find an output shaft for the correct year.
www.wittrans.com sells all the small pieces pretty cheap if you don't find them locally.
Bmsjax
Well-Known Member
Their pricing looks really good! thanks! so I am guessing I pretty much need everything from the output shaft to the right of the schematic? Anything in there interchangeable so I wont have to get it? (speedo parts, park gear, gov) I guess I could always return what I dont need. I'd like to do it myself but there is a good trans shop here I can take it to if need be.
The 440 it was bolted to was a '74 but it came outta a '81 motor home. Are the casting numbers that will give me a year or is it gonna be a best guess?
Also it had the torque converter with it, any ideas as to the stall speed in an '81 motor home? Worth sending out to get checked or just get a new one?
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Your welcome. The parking support, governor, and speedo parts will interchange.
Look on the drivers side of the main case right above the pan and there are numbers stamped there. They might be covered with grease/grime so you may need to clean it to see them. There'll be 2 letters followed by a 7 digit # then a couple more sets of #'s. Post the 2 letters and 7 digit # and I might be able to tell you exactly what year it is if it's on my list.
RV converters are usually real low stall so if your building something for gas mileage their great. For performance their usually not too good.
Bmsjax
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the delay.
PK 4028425. I found something that says 76-77 8-440 H/Per. Sound right?
For the converter. The 440 is just gonna have a 4bbl(possibly aftermarket intake w/600 cfm edelbrock) and a cam 262/268 maybe. I want it to be daily driven when desired. Would that converter work? If not what should I be lookin for?
PK 4028425. I found something that says 76-77 8-440 H/Per. Sound right?
For the converter. The 440 is just gonna have a 4bbl(possibly aftermarket intake w/600 cfm edelbrock) and a cam 262/268 maybe. I want it to be daily driven when desired. Would that converter work? If not what should I be lookin for?
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Yep that's what it is. And the converter will be fine with a small cam like that.
Bmsjax
Well-Known Member
Three choices of tail housings, two without weight bracket holes(dont know why one is different from the other) and one with the holes. Any idea what i'm lookin for? does it matter?
And 27", 21" or 16 3/4 output shaft? I have no idea I'm guessing the 16 3/4 is too short and the 27" might be it but other than that I'm lost...
And 27", 21" or 16 3/4 output shaft? I have no idea I'm guessing the 16 3/4 is too short and the 27" might be it but other than that I'm lost...
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
27" shaft is correct and as for the weight bracket holes, that depends on if you want to use a rear counterweight or not. Most cars didn't have them. I think they were mostly for C body use (cars that they wanted to cruise ultra smooth) but you can add one if you like.
BTW: the 3 different housings are most likely,
1. car housing with holes for a rear counter weight.
2. car housing without holes for the counter weight.
p.s. One of the car housings may or may not also have the lower holes for mounting a factory floor shifter linkage. If you have a factory floor shift that may be a concern.
3. truck housing that had the access cover to the output shaft bearing snap ring on the side vs. the bottom like a car housing.
If you don't have the counterweight itself and want one I have a real nice one I'll sell cheap. Pm me if interested.
BTW: the 3 different housings are most likely,
1. car housing with holes for a rear counter weight.
2. car housing without holes for the counter weight.
p.s. One of the car housings may or may not also have the lower holes for mounting a factory floor shifter linkage. If you have a factory floor shift that may be a concern.
3. truck housing that had the access cover to the output shaft bearing snap ring on the side vs. the bottom like a car housing.
If you don't have the counterweight itself and want one I have a real nice one I'll sell cheap. Pm me if interested.
Bmsjax
Well-Known Member
Dont have a counter weight now and not sure if I'll use one or not yet. But I think i'l get the one with the holes incase i do want to add it later. And i'll let you know if I need it. Thanks for all the help!
pishta
I know I'm right....
Bmsjax, I got your tailshaft housing up here in Tustin, Come get it. Out of a truck with the side circlip, beefy unit, not the skinny type out of my A-727. PM me, Im off tomorrow, just bring a six pack of Bud light.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Glad to help
Bmsjax
Well-Known Member
OK, so I get all my parts in yesterday. First off a note; everything inside is brand new its clean and beautiful so it leads me to think it was rebuilt and never really used to much till it was pulled. Tore the trans down, pulled the short shaft and started putting in the new shaft. All went well until I tried to put the front planetary gearset. It wouldnt slide on the shaft! After much research I found the only difference in the output shaft is the 66-75 shaft has 45 degree splines for the front planetary and the 76-93 has 37.5 degree splines. SO it looks to me that its stamped a 76-77 trans but whoever rebuilt it put in a 66-75 internals. Is this possible? It wouldnt cause any problems right? Besides giving me a head ache that is!
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Yeah things are a direct swap. The only mechanical diff. in them is the front planetary set and output shaft. As long as those parts are matched your good to go. Someone could have swapped it over but I wonder if they sent you the wrong output shaft. Check out this page on Cope racing trans. I just found that shows how to tell what output shaft you have
https://www.coperacingtrans.com/product_info.php?cPath=83&products_id=430
Bmsjax
Well-Known Member
I saw that last night but forgot to double check and it looks like I got the wrong shaft! :violent1: It doesnt have the extra groove.... Now I gotta deal with return... grrrr... hahaha hopefully I can get the right one without too much effort.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Bummer.:wack: That's the bad part about buying used parts.
p.s. there's one more solution. Get a front planetary to fit the shaft you've got. Might not cost more than the shipping to return the wrong shaft. Just a thought.
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