BB bellhousing wanted
- Thread starter kams
- Start date
-
- Status
M
mopar1962
Guest
be careful, if using the A body trans you need the spacer ring to reduce the bb hole from 4.80 to 4.35 or a more exp lakewood housing, Bbody trans will be a knucklebanger as it sits almost 1 foot in front of the A body shifter location, E body case is better and shifter only sits back almost 4 inches more then the A body, shifter fab may be required ,just throwing some thoughts your way as I dont know what trans your using, regards
mrtires24
Well-Known Member
Hey,
I am buiding a 1970 440 4spd posi duster.
I found a big block bell on here for a great price. You should be able to find one. If you have any questions on the build, you can ask me. I have found out alot about this type of build.
Like...
anyways, good luck.
Phil
I am buiding a 1970 440 4spd posi duster.
I found a big block bell on here for a great price. You should be able to find one. If you have any questions on the build, you can ask me. I have found out alot about this type of build.
Like...
- your going to have to change your stearing linkage
- the oil pan you will need
- where to buy the clutch linkage parts ( because the small block clutch linkage won't work)
- Where to get a reatainer adapter to modify your 4.3 reatainer on your trans to fit a 4.8 opening on your bell.
- What flywheel you can get away with using.
anyways, good luck.
Phil
M
mopar1962
Guest
you did ask me ,remember? lol
swedefish
Well-Known Member
See to that you get a bell housing that`ll line up with your flywheel and starter.
I bought a bell housing from Brewers I belieave, 130 tooth and with a dual location for the starter and 4.3 opening for the case
I bought a bell housing from Brewers I belieave, 130 tooth and with a dual location for the starter and 4.3 opening for the case
mrtires24
Well-Known Member
I know you helped me mopar. I meant the other guy. You have been a great help mopar. because of your help, I can now say that I know a little bit about it too, But not everything, I'll know more when I am done mine. :burnout:
PS in terms of the bell housing, only 3 casting # will work. if you need the #'s let me know.
M
mopar1962
Guest
I already know how to do the job, thanx anyhow
mrtires24
Well-Known Member
I don't understand why you would say that.
I wasn't offering you help ,Mopar1962, I was offering Kams some assistance NOT you. You have helped me out with mine ,Mopar1962, so why would I be offering you my help? You know more than I do. after all this isn't your original post, its Kams, I was just offering him help the same way you offered him help shown above. Unless you have 2 sign ins and you are Mopar 1962 and Kams, then that would make sence...you don't need my help. I would have to agree on that.
I'm not saying I wouldn't try and help you ( mopar 1962 ) if you asked me for help. I just don't think that I would have anything of knowledge that you don't allready know.
Sorry for any confusion...I was just trying to help.
Phil
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
ive seen big block bell housing asking price 300.00 and up,, unless you find on more reasonably priced ide go with a quick time bell housing also,,,i just got one for a tremec to mopar
mrtires24
Well-Known Member
It all depends,
I bought a 11 inch off a wanted add i posted on craigslist for $100. Little did I kknow at the time that it was too big.
I then put a wanted add on this site, and found a 10.5 inch with an inspection cover and boot for $65+shipping.
If your going to buy new, I highly recomend Brewers Performance. they are very helpfull, and answer questions within 1 hour to one day. Very fast.
you can get one there for 299 in new condition.
Phil
M
mopar1962
Guest
mr ,I meant no offense and as I told you you wouldnt need to change any steering components using a motor plate ,take care
mrtires24
Well-Known Member
I won't have to change any stearing linkage anyways...I have Bought 187 oil pan, and I have left the old 1970 /6 stearing linkage in and I did a mok-up. as long as I use the 187 oil pan with the schumaker conversion mounts, and the 1970 /6 linkage, I don't hit the pan anywhere. It looks like Grump was right.
But so were you, I am sure if I did the motor plate, I would have cleared too, But I didn't want to do the motor plate.... So Kams will need to change his linkage if he uses motor Mounts and /6 stearing because he has a higher linkage than a 1970 A body. who knows maybe his car was a V8, so he won't need to change anything except the pan. At the same time if he does Your sugestion of a motor plate, He won't have to change a thing.
By the looks of all of Kams replies (none), it looks like He know his stuff, and all he needs is a bell housing. In which case Good luck Kams, and if you need help, their are lots of people on this site that can help.
and again thanks for all your help too Mopar.
Phil
M
mopar1962
Guest
the 11 inch bellhousing would work ,you just need to use special hex head bolts on the p plate .the 11 inch clutch would be a nicer setup as you have more surface area than a 10.5,no offense meant, none taken friend
M
mopar1962
Guest
dunno how high the the schumacher mounts sit but I hope you checked pan to link clearance with trans in car,regards
mrtires24
Well-Known Member
I still don't have the Bellhousing, so I havn't tried with the trans in, Buy I rested the oil pan on the k frame and I used a socket as a spacer between the k frame and the pan, then I proped up the back end of the oil pan so That it was about 1 inch or so above the Center link. I COULD turn the wheel all the way BOTH ways WITHOUT hitting a single thing. I even moved the oil pan so that it was Not centered over the K frame, and more to the passanger side...AND IT STILL DIDN"T HIT.
I know this isn't a perfect mok-up, but it makes me beleive that I am in the clear. the other oil pan would have hit for sure. Keep looking at my project 1970 duster 440 4spd posi, and I will update their.
We don't need to clutter up this post with all this info.
Phil
mrtires24
Well-Known Member
PS the 11 inch Bell housing won't work. The bellhousing was too wide and the starter was against the header ( using a high torque Mini starter) It also had a too long of a clutch fork, and that too would hit the header. I also would not be able to buy the clutch linkage because the ball stud holes on the Bell were in different spots than the 10.5. I also had a 143 tooth fly which couldn't fit into a 10.5 in bell because the starter would not line up with it...that is if I were able to even get the 10.5 bell over the 11 inch Fly.
at least those are the problems I was faceing.
Phil
M
mopar1962
Guest
well, the 11 inch scalleped clutch does work you just have to use the counter sunk hex head bolts, also I told you to take that particular tube off and have the ends enlarged for a slip type fit so enlarged so it would slip on and off when you needed to change the starter. I just think you should have went with fenderwells as its a straight shot to the back on eack side and there is no clearance issues whatsoever to worry about.steering linkage next? take care friend, I dont know it all Im just tryin to help.
M
mopar1962
Guest
that 11 scalloped clutch in other words would have fit in your 10.5 housing and given you greater clutch surface, just countersunk hex head bolts were needed, sorry for not clarifying this earlier as ive just reread you post, take care
M
mopar1962
Guest
and their not plentiful rob, believe me,plus the earlier cases used a different mount and a trunnion style outputshaft, now ya tell me , lol
M
mopar1962
Guest
runout no greater than .008 and its a 4.35 retainer if its more its junk. as engine and trans wont be properly aligned.m.p chassis manual
- Status
-
Similar threads
