Bendix MC pushing nothing to front

[Golden Scamp]

Removed what I assume is the original master cylinder following an attempt to bleed the brakes. Was getting good pressure in the rear brakes and moving fluid through the lines. Fronts were barely dripping and then peddle went to mush and I can’t get anything built up. Pulled master cylinder and found when I plunge the rod, only the rear is pressurized. Nothing coming from the front but a trickle. Pulled the plunger but I don’t know what I am supposed to be looking for on that. Is there a tool to remove the fitting from inside the brake line hook-ups, I think it may be plugged. Any advise, or would it be better to just replace the whole thing? And with that, what’s the best way to remove the rod for reuse with the new MC? Don’t think the new one come with rod attached. Thanks

 

[Bad Sport]

Couple of ideas, maybe a small piece of wire to see if the passage is clear?

Also, that front plunger on the pump looks iffy from here.

Just some thoughts.

 

[Golden Scamp]

Any idea on how to remove the pushrod from the assembly? I’m going to meed to reuse it? The inner pump is still in the housing. This shown is for rear housing for the front brakes. Manual doesn’t really help as this MC is not shown.

 

[Bad Sport]

It should just pull out. You may have to clamp it in a vice to hold it enough to pull the rod.

 

[Golden Scamp]

OK, i was wondering too, because I pulled the master cylinder off the shelf I was going to use for the big block swap and found it only pushed air out the front when the rod was depressed. I would prefer to rebuild my original, but looks like for time constraints I’ll be putting some Chinese junk on it.

 

[67Dart273]

So far as "the manual" that looks more like my 67 master. You can download a manual from MyMopar. You talking about pulling the residual valves? You can screw small sheet metal screws into the brass fittings inserts and pull 'em out with a claw hammer

I would think you could blow the forward piston out with air.

If it's stuck in there, you probably found the problem, LOL

EDIT some picchures LOL

 

[Golden Scamp]

Thanks for the help here. Working 6 days a week means this is off the table till next week but I’m sure I’ll get more done than I did today. Nothing more than head-scratching today. And the manual states a retaining clip for 68 models yet this has a plate holding it all in. Could be a left over 67 Master they used. Interesting, thanks.

 

[Golden Scamp]

What do I need to consider if I go ahead and mount up my Disc brake Bendix Master 2226811. C Body I think but I planned on using it without power assist when I put the discs on the front. If I went ahead and mounted it now, is it going to give me issues being that it has the 1 1/8” bore and holds a ton more fluid? If it’ll work, I’m going to stay away from repairing the master here and just do the swap for now so I can stop.

 

[67Dart273]

How do the bore sizes compare? (Bigger master bore = harder to press pedal, less "leverage" on the wheels)

Only other issue I know of is the depth of the pushrod hole, "check it"

 

[Golden Scamp]

Current is 1” bore, but would be going to 1 1/8”. Big difference I think. I’ll certainly check it out on the depth. Otherwise, I would think if there are no other things to look out for with doing this swap, it should be a bolt on and bleed. And I know why this happened in the first place. During last bleed, with bleeder valve opened, the pedal travel all the way in had to have damaged the internals. Pedal was never designed to travel pushrod the full length into the MC. I have now heard to put a block under the pedal when bleeding to avoid this. Live and learn.