Bent up stuff

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This ^^^^^ is your only option to assure it will be right again. Bent pushrods happen only one way. Valve to piston clearance.
We rotated the motor by hand and no binding. We also torqued one head and used play-do to clearance check the valves. No contact and .380 clearance.
 
We rotated the motor by hand and no binding. We also torqued one head and used play-do to clearance check the valves. No contact and .380 clearance.
When did you do this? With the push rods in and adjusted? .380 doesn't sound right.
 
Bent pushrods can also happen with coil bind and valve spring breakage can be from coil bind. Instead of pointing fingers at what is already a bad situation, concentrate on the cure. Do a leak down test on all cylinders. Make sure you have at least .060" valve spring clearance. from spring compressed solid to max. valve lift height. Also make sure pushrods are strong enough for the spring being used. Get a shop manual for tune up specs and make sure TDC on damper is correct.
 
We rotated the motor by hand and no binding. We also torqued one head and used play-do to clearance check the valves. No contact and .380 clearance.

Do you mean 0.0380? 0.380 is over 3/8 of an inch. I'd double check that.
 
Do you mean 0.0380? 0.380 is over 3/8 of an inch. I'd double check that.
Yes. I know. Just like .500 is half an inch. My friend checked the play-doh thickness. He insists .380. Seems a lot to me too.
 
We rotated the motor by hand and no binding. We also torqued one head and used play-do to clearance check the valves. No contact and .380 clearance.

There is no way in holy hell you have .380" clearance. That's over 3/8"! No way, no how. I am tellin you sure as ****, the pushrods bent because valves and pistons occupied the same space at the same time.
 
Bent pushrods can also happen with coil bind and valve spring breakage can be from coil bind. Instead of pointing fingers at what is already a bad situation, concentrate on the cure. Do a leak down test on all cylinders. Make sure you have at least .060" valve spring clearance. from spring compressed solid to max. valve lift height. Also make sure pushrods are strong enough for the spring being used. Get a shop manual for tune up specs and make sure TDC on damper is correct.
Will the coil bind be obvious upon valve adjustment?
 
Yes. I know. Just like .500 is half an inch. My friend checked the play-doh thickness. He insists .380. Seems a lot to me too.

Is this the "same friend" who ruined your engine? And you believe him?
 
Seems to be a lot of unknowns here. Need to get some real accurate info before you can figure what course of action to take!
 
There is no way in holy hell you have .380" clearance. That's over 3/8"! No way, no how. I am tellin you sure as ****, the pushrods bent because valves and pistons occupied the same space at the same time.
I believe you. I am running cometic .100 head gaskets though. Due to the closed chambers on the pro comp heads and my Pistons come out of deck at .027. I am not trying to deny anything. I am just wanting to fix it and do it right. How do I identify coil bind while adjusting the valves? Is it pretty obvious when the spring coils contact each other? I am still learning about valve train geometry.
 
I believe you. I am running cometic .100 head gaskets though. Due to the closed chambers on the pro comp heads and my Pistons come out of deck at .027. I am not trying to deny anything. I am just wanting to fix it and do it right. How do I identify coil bind while adjusting the valves? Is it pretty obvious when the spring coils contact each other? I am still learning about valve train geometry.

Yes, you will feel the engine become difficult to turn because of coil bind. Watch the valve springs closely and see if they bind or not. Use a feeler gauge if necessary if it is difficult to see the space between the coils.
 
Seems to be a lot of unknowns here. Need to get some real accurate info before you can figure what course of action to take!
My plans tomorrow are to put air in the cylinders to check for leak down. As far as valve to piston clearance, I am unsure and uneducated on how to know for sure without doing another play-do test.
 
Yes, you will feel the engine become difficult to turn because of coil bind. Watch the valve springs closely and see if they bind or not. Use a feeler gauge if necessary if it is difficult to see the space between the coils.
So, there should be some clearance between the spring coils while under load? Is it possible my friend had me buy the wrong length pushrods and that caused coil bind. However, we did not witness any while adjusting the lash.
 
Yes...and no offense when I say this, I dont know any "other way" to put it.

But you NEED to learn to do "all this" yourself. That way, there is a MUCH better chance for success. You improve yourself when you learn. Knowledge is irreplaceable and invaluable.
 
Do you know what valve springs you have? What height they were set at? That will give you an idea what kind of lift they will support. With the valves adjusted and at max lift you can check what coil bind is from there. But if you bent every push rod as you said, and you've got some broken valve springs, you need to have the heads gone through. Pull them off!
 
So, there should be some clearance between the spring coils while under load? Is it possible my friend had me buy the wrong length pushrods and that caused coil bind. However, we did not witness any while adjusting the lash.

Yes. Valve springs have a minimum spec for space between coils at maximum lift.
 
Ok Rob, take over, I'm going to bed. Talk to you later. I'll be in Ga. next month, I'll give you a call.
 
Yes...and no offense when I say this, I dont know any "other way" to put it.

But you NEED to learn to do "all this" yourself. That way, there is a MUCH better chance for success. You improve yourself when you learn. Knowledge is irreplaceable and invaluable.
I thought I was learning from this machinist but he does kind of go on speculation on a lot of things. I don't think he's actually fully assembled a motor on his own. I did build this Barracuda entirely on my own. When I started to get into race stuff is where the problems began. First it was piston to head clearance. Now it seems like coil bind is an issue. The thing is only the springs on #2 cylinder broke. All the others look to be fine. However all pushrods on passenger side are extremely bent.
 
It IS possible to have a strange amount of valve to piston clearance if your camshaft is not properly timed with the crank.
 
I would rule that being a possibility out because he said it was running great?

That's what I thought too but then I realized that with the subsequent damage it probably wasn't running as 'great' as the OP had thought. - Maybe??
 
It IS possible to have a strange amount of valve to piston clearance if your camshaft is not properly timed with the crank.
We installed it at zero. I have a three way adjustable timing gear set, but went with zero because 14* was factored in with cam specs.
 
We installed it at zero. I have a three way adjustable timing gear set, but went with zero because 14* was factored in with cam specs.

So you did degree the cam in? - Or did you just use the reference marks on the timing set?
 
We installed it at zero. I have a three way adjustable timing gear set, but went with zero because 14* was factored in with cam specs.
I really don't know what your referring to here^^^^. I know I would have a real hard time letting the guy that messed with your car to ever touch or do any machine work to it again! You need to get with a better machinist and as others have said learn to work on your car yourself.
 
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