best 273 mods?

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Daz570

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As you may have read, i've been pushing to keep my old 273 in my val as opposed to just biffing in my 360,

I was just wondering, what sort of low budget mods have you guys found to work well while my mill's in bits.

much appreciated,

Dan.
 
Port the heads, Ede Performer intake, 4 bbl carb, Comp Cam, Headers/dual exhaust, MP Performance elec ignition kit,rear gear (323,355).
Good start !
 
I bored mine .030 and put in 10 to 1's. Added a mild Isky cam, made all the difference in the world.
 
i do have an eddie torquer 2 manifold here, should be able to find a 450 - 465 holley, was hoping to keep away from a complete rebuild, so the 8.odd comp. will prolly have to stay (but a mate that knows the car tells me they shaved heaps off it years ago)

what about my new cam (3500 to 6500 solid) and a standard 904 and 3.23? is it too much without chasing a stallie?

oh.. theres also the option of throwing some small valve 360 heads on her, have hears with a bit of relief around the intake valve it can make a good low budget addition.
 
That cam will kill any performance the engine may have in it since it is used with the wrong rear ratio. You'll need a stall converter with it. A min. of 3,000 rpm. And the Torker intake blows as far as bottom end torque goes.

What is it you want out of the car?
 
at the moment, it cruises to the occasional run, although i'd like it to be a bit more of a daily driver then it is, car has been quite happily driving around on 7 (yes yes i know) due to the broken pushrod as long as i've owned it so slapping it back together as is will prolly keep me happy.

The thing is, it doesn't have my touch to it, after two years of ownership it still kind of feels like someone elses car, everything is as the previous owner had it. so i was hoping to make a few subtle changes to make it my own.
 
Then the first 2 replies are your answer.

MVR said; I bored mine .030 and put in 10 to 1's. Added a mild Isky cam, made all the difference in the world.

I'd not go above 9.5-1.

Johnny D said; Port the heads, Ede Performer intake, 4 bbl carb, Comp Cam, Headers/dual exhaust, MP Performance elec ignition kit,rear gear (323,355).

A general direction given, not a bad start. Bowl port the heads and back cut the OE valves. The carb will be 600 or less cfm's. 2-1/4 exhaust pipe. Select cam based on the cams power range and where you drive the car in.

If you cruise @ 3000 RPM, the cam should make power before hand. A 2500 -+ cam starting power point is a bit raadical for a small engine. Look at something that has a bracket power band of 1800 or 2200 start point. The 3000 cruise is right in that area with a smaller cams starting power point like I listed above.

IE; Advertised duration like
268, 270, 280 max.
The Performaer is more than enuff intake for the engine and has great drivabilty.
 
my original 273 was already bored .060 and the walls were less than desirable so i got a 318 block from the yard for $50 and went from there. i used the forged crank and rods, along with the heads from the 273 and a balance job. the janitor at my shop thought my box of spare parts looked like junk so my adjustable rockers are gone. i think i used a 340 cam but i cant remeber the specs. i know the block was bored .040 and decked .010 because of a large scratch on the deck surface. if my math is correct, it should be around 9.5 - 1. with a 600 edelbrock and original 4 barl manifold it sounds tough, but the stock exhaust manifolds are less than high perf. i dont have any real power #'s to speak of yet, just thought i would throw it out there.
 
Oh.....I'm just running a stock 2V and manifold but I love my 21 MPG.

resize 073.jpg
 
Just bought a 48mm dcoe weber (42mm chokes) which should wake her up a little through a couple of 50mm stainless mandrel bends into the manifold,

I'm a bit of a sucker for these things :)

48dcoe.JPG
 
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