best air cleaner to use?

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beerboy

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I am running an edelbrock carb on my 1973 340 duster on a wiend manifold. whats a good air cleaner to go with . the guy I got the car from put a small 6 inch diameter deal on the car with fairly narrow element. I like the look of the mopar perf. 10 inch model as I was told by a few guys that the small one I have on now is not giving the needed air to the engine, so should I go to a wider unit and as wide filter that will fit under my hood? thanks for any info
 
If your not going for the factory stock look, get yourself a 14" chrome unit, with a drop down base.
Match that up with a 14"x 3" K&N. Good to go.
 
I'll second the K&N's; they are not cheap but they sure do flow well. Put one on and forget all about any restrictions. I use them racing and in my Cummins work diesel.
 
if you want real free hp, do not run an open air cleaner. get some type of cold air intake
setup.
 
I used to run a K&N filter. I don't any more. I stay as far away from them as I can. I had grit on the inside of the air filter assembly of my dune buggy. I figured it was leaking past the filter somehow. After trying a lot of different things I finally realized that the grit was going THRU the filter. Yeah, they flow a lot air. They also flow some amount of everything else and I don't need that in my engines. Granted, this an off road application, but that experience soured me on K&N's. Don't use them, don't like them, & can't recommend them in good faith. May as well just run some stainless mesh for all the good they do.

BTW, Using one on a Cummins voids the engine warranty.

I use fully enclosed filter cans and duct them to a cold air source. They're Fugly, but one of the best (if it'll fit) is the filter can assembly used on the GM 6.2L diesels & carb'd 454's in one ton trucks. They enclose a ~5" tall, ~14" OD filter element.
 
I like K&N and have used them for many years. Like another member said, don't oil them until they drip.
 
ntsqd said:
BTW, Using one on a Cummins voids the engine warranty.
Click to expand...
Interesting...where did that info come from? My engine is past the warranty mileage, BTW.

BTW#2, my racing is rallying, all on dirt/gravel roads, and I have not yet spotted any grit after the K&N filter in my setup. (Stock Mitsubishi Starion filter can with the stock MAF sensor.) Just sayin'....
 
it's unlikely that an air cleaner will make your car any faster.
...just pick the one you like!
 
im liking my k&n filter top, no idle change after installing it. im planing on using it with a six pack hood, i doubt its worth it without a scoop of some sort.
 
You can get those 'recessed base', 'drop base' air cleaners on amazon for under $30. You could easily turn one into a cold air intake with a sheet metal wrap with a couple holes in it with some dryer ducting.
 
I am more concerned with hood clearance then performance gain, just wondering what any one with the same set up I have or similar is using for an air cleaner????
 
nm9stheham said:
Interesting...where did that info come from? My engine is past the warranty mileage, BTW.
Click to expand...
TDR, both direct and via a friend who is one step short of getting a Cummins logo tattoo.
So is mine, but I figure that if Cummins doesn't want them on their product that badly that there is probably a reason.

BTW#2, my racing is rallying, all on dirt/gravel roads, and I have not yet spotted any grit after the K&N filter in my setup. (Stock Mitsubishi Starion filter can with the stock MAF sensor.) Just sayin'....
Click to expand...
Spray some of the filter oil on the interior surfaces of the filter can and then check it after a race. That was how I found the 'leakage' that I was seeing.

What is wrong with a 4bbl stock filter assembly? Is the intake too tall for it to fit? I ran an Olds Toronado filter assembly on my old '67 Ranchero where it's intake was enough taller than stock that the OE filter didn't fit.

I see no good reason to run an open element filter on anything with a closed hood. The HP loss from ingesting the hot air out of the radiator, not to mention the various driveability problems that can come from a hot carb, just doesn't make it seem like a good idea.
 
Done the thing with the oil in the inside....maybe I got lucky with a good seal. I don't disagree with your logic on the hot air. But less hot air will make less HP than more hot air.

I expect the OP will be better off with ANY of the ideas presented vs his little 6" thingie! His setup can only get better.
 
I had an excellent seal, wheel bearing grease on the filter element's sealing surfaces with true and flat filter housing flanges, and a rubber washer under the wing nut. Was the type of filter assembly that fits into a 3" ID rubber hose with a hose clamp on it. The grit could have only gone thru the filter element.

Agreed, it can only get better from where the OP is at. Just a question of what is desired as to how much better it can get.
 
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