Best dual plane intake for 400 low deck

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496 polara

moparts id gch
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Stock 400 2 bbl converting to 4bbl. All my experience is 440 so what say you?

Stock 8.2-1 400 in a C body with highway gears. I know factory Tquad intakes are good but not putting something that heavy back on if for no other reason I am old and have a bad back.
 
Performer rpm will make more power across the top half of the rpm band, but I think a regular performer would work good in a heavy C-body. Easier to fit under the hood, too.
You could always go with a cheap Chinese copy, if the goal is to save some weight. they are supposed to be pretty good for the money.
 
Edelbrock Performer RPM is the best, but an old Edelbrock DP4B is a good intake, or a Weiand dual plane for a low deck. There should be a decent selection at Mopars at The Rock on the 18th of this month. Rockingham Dragway.

:thumbsup:
 
The regular Performer will be fine there. Also a step up if you can find a good deal is the Edelbrock DP4B. It's an older dual plane but they worked very well.
 
This is a zero brain effort exercise.

Cheap and easy is the HEAVY factory intake, then ether an easy to get performer or the older Edelbrock DP4B. The RPM will lack a teeny tiny bit of off idle torque. I found this on my 360. It’s nothing really.

What are your Hwy gears and tire size?
Are you sliding in a cam? If so, specs please!
The cam card would be awesome.

IMO, I liked a 750 on top of my ‘78 - 400 even though it was a very low compression engine. The engine and entire car responded very well to the increased primary size. No ill effects on mileage after tuning.
 
Agree with others: Performer + TQ.....for heavy car & tall gearing.
 
Edelbrock Performer is what I would be looking for. Others have mentioned the DP4B, but I'll tell you to avoid it because they are old and they alloy they used back then is soft.

Most if not all have had carb stud thread issues and have either had or need helicoils installed. I recently had a DP4B that required all four stud holes welded up and re-tapped.

For you needs I would go the Performer route.

Tom
 
Have to verify the gears( my guess 2.76 or 2.94 unless I luck out with a 3.21) and no to a cam anytime soon.225/75r15 currently.
I have several variations of 750cfm on hand to choose from. Anything else would have to be acquired .

I have either Hooker super comp 1 3/4 long tubes or Schumacher tri-y headers that I will ad when changing to dual exhaust.
 
does the consensus of performer change if it's going on a 383 instead?

(application would be truck that wouldn't see hi rpm use)
 
does the consensus of performer change if it's going on a 383 instead?

(application would be truck that wouldn't see hi rpm use)
Nope. I took mine off a 400 and gave it to my buddy for his 383. It scoots just fine, he hasn't complained, and he gets to use his N95 hood with it.
 
does the consensus of performer change if it's going on a 383 instead?

(application would be truck that wouldn't see hi rpm use)
With a truck, room under the hood is much less of a problem, you could fit an RPM. But, for low speed use and low rpm use,I still recommend a base performer, 383 or 400.
 
Have to verify the gears( my guess 2.76 or 2.94 unless I luck out with a 3.21) and no to a cam anytime soon.225/75r15 currently.
I have several variations of 750cfm on hand to choose from. Anything else would have to be acquired .

I have either Hooker super comp 1 3/4 long tubes or Schumacher tri-y headers that I will ad when changing to dual exhaust.
I would 100% use the Schumacher tri-y's in a heavy C-body with no gear. A 383 rr with 3.23/3.55 would get long tubes.
 
I would 100% use the Schumacher tri-y's in a heavy C-body with no gear. A 383 rr with 3.23/3.55 would get long tubes.
Call me crazy but I like my longtube headers. A 1 3/4 long tube should make gobs of low and mid range torque for a long legged 400. I just pulled the tri y's off the 440 in my duster. I find it hard to believe they would outperform long tube headers.
 
Call me crazy but I like my longtube headers. A 1 3/4 long tube should make gobs of low and mid range torque for a long legged 400. I just pulled the tri y's off the 440 in my duster. I find it hard to believe they would outperform long tube headers.
I doubt the tri-y's,would be as good as the right set of 4 into 1 long tubes. But I do think they would give better very-low end torque, (that's what tri-y's are supposed to do) and be much easier to fit.
Besides, where you gonna get c-body headers? Try to fit b-bodies?
 
I doubt the tri-y's,would be as good as the right set of 4 into 1 long tubes. But I do think they would give better very-low end torque, (that's what tri-y's are supposed to do) and be much easier to fit.
Besides, where you gonna get c-body headers? Try to fit b-bodies?
Hooker 5113 or tti. I have the tti and I like them.

Tri Y's might get a little bit of low end torque, but not a lot worth noticing. Engine Masters ran a comparison test, not sure if I have it still.
 
I have two sets of the old Hooker super comp headers for C bodies. One used and one still new. I ran the used set on my Polara for years before I went to TTi's. Found a second set years later and still have them.
 
With a 400 in a C body, you will need all the low end tq you can get.
People forget that before you can get to 4000 rpm, you have to get to 2000 rpm first.....
 
With a 400 in a C body, you will need all the low end tq you can get.
People forget that before you can get to 4000 rpm, you have to get to 2000 rpm first.....

And to get to 2000 you need to get to 1000. So what? Who in their right mind is stabbing the throttle under full load at 2000? No one should be.

Guys get all wound up about torque at WOT, but what do you lose 30 foot pounds at 3500 at WOT (as an example) compared to 3500 at a quarter throttle? It might be 7 or 8 foot pounds. Maybe.
 
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