Best garage floor paint?????

-
C

cudacrazy67

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
1,374
Reaction score
35
Location
central,pa
What's the best garage floor paint to use? I want something that's going to hold up to hot tires and the abuse of a working garage. I just poured the concrete 30 days ago and it's clean( no oil) what did you people use and how did it hold up from years of use? Thanks for any info. Mike.
 
I have an epoxy textured coating (I didn't do it, previous owners did) and I hate it. If anything whatsoever gets on it, not only is it hard to clean, but if it's caustic at all, it bubbles the finish right off. I'm sure this is an issue with a lot of coatings, and ideally nothing spills on it, but it's a garage, stuff does. I have no experience with other coatings, so I can't give advice, but I would not do an epoxy floor again myself.
 
72Dodge said:
I have an epoxy textured coating (I didn't do it, previous owners did) and I hate it. If anything whatsoever gets on it, not only is it hard to clean, but if it's caustic at all, it bubbles the finish right off. I'm sure this is an issue with a lot of coatings, and ideally nothing spills on it, but it's a garage, stuff does. I have no experience with other coatings, so I can't give advice, but I would not do an epoxy floor again myself.
Click to expand...


Had epoxy coating on floor at a past house and loved it. Cleans up well, looks great and very durable

PREP WORK IS KEY

New concrete needs to cure but I think 30 days should be good for the epoxy or other costing.

IN MY OPINION (was a facility maintenance supervisor for 18 years) the floor has to be shot blasted before coating. U Coat suggest acid wash, some offer diamond grinding, I PREFFER SHOT BLAST!

Think about painting a car without sanding, you need a surface the coating will stick to, if not it will delaminate.

Epoxy coating made the garage another room in the house, had to mop it to keep it looking great, but loved it. Spilled gas on it without any effect on finish, oils, grease and crap that comes off the car in the winter clean up with little effort.

Only problem is I coated the asphalt driveway and it marked the garage floor and it took some effort to clean that up, but the hot tires never damaged the finish.
 
Well like I said, it was here when we bought the house, so I had no control over it. Maybe if it was done right it would be better, but as it is, I absolutely hate it. Will have to consider refinishing at some point, or just leave it as is and deal with it.

Good to know it's possible for it to be better though. Maybe I'd use it again if I did refinish.

Another thing to note is that there are a lot of different epoxy coatings out there. I've read some with great reviews and others with horrible reviews. I have no idea what product was used on my garage floor, it could have been one of the not-so-great ones.
 
If you want the BEST, get military spec floor coating. Such as what's used in air base hangars, ship docks and the like. It ain't cheap, but it's the best.
 
I applied Ucoat on a new garage floor back in 04. It has held up very well, no problems with it. I have spilled all different kinds of liquids and nothing has fazed it. They give you a container of silica sand to sprinkle on the 1st coat while it is still wet if you want a non-skid surface. Since it is difficult to spread uniformly by hand some areas are almost like sandpaper. Those areas end up looking a little dirty, but all I have ever done is sweep the floor, never mopped it.
 
I have used rustoleum that I bought at lowes. Now you can get it at Walmart it works like a champ. I put the paint chips in mine. But wish I would have left them out. The chips make it hard to sweep or roll around on a creeper. Oil wipes right up. No problems what so ever.
 
Why is it that the paint you intentionally put on the floor wont stick even after you do all the prep work like the instructions say, but if you SPILL paint on the garage floor nothing you can do will take it up? Ya know what I mean?
 
Lonewolf3165 said:
Why is it that the paint you intentionally put on the floor wont stick even after you do all the prep work like the instructions say, but if you SPILL paint on the garage floor nothing you can do will take it up? Ya know what I mean?
Click to expand...

I all too well. I have recently gotten overspray on my shop floor. JUST overspray. And PRIMER no less. I hit it with a 3500 PSI pressure washer and it didn't budge.
 
Wish I would have sealed or painted my garage floor....but with all the stains on it it is to late. Had a neighbor in AZ that painted his with some cheapo stuff form one of the box stores. First time he parked on it with hot tires it lifted right off. I do not remember what he did for prep but he did not just apply it.
 
X2 on the rustoleum been @6 years and still looks great. Going to do the basement floor next.
 
I used Rustoleum on my shop in Colorado and my garage here in Arizona.It has held up well.I put to many of the flakes down here and it is harder to sweep and keep clean.Next time I'll probably not put any down.With the Rustoleum you have to be careful...the BASEMENT floor paint looks just like the GARAGE floor paint but will not hold up to hot tires.
 
I used an epoxy paint made by a small company called Andrews Paint out of Haverstraw NY. They make practically any color you'd like and in my case they made me a blue green swimming pool color which is still on the floor looking good as of today, bout 15 years. They are reasonable and coverage is excellent..
 
Whatever you decide to use, pay close attention to the installation instructions. Also, if there is a vapor barrier under the slab, good for you. If not, you cannot use a lot of the different coatings... or failure is certain.

Also, concrete stain has been gaining popularity, it is very versatile and the easiest to apply. You should check it out with a web search.

Mark
 
I used Behr concrete stain on my garage floor and it has held up well. Not as expensive as epoxy and easy to touch up.
 
What kind of rustoleum did you use? Was it for garage floors or something else. I think that's the way I'm going to go. I'd like to paint this weekend. Thanks, mike.
 
As Bighammer said;if you have no vapor barrier, you won't have much luck with anything adhering to your floor no matter how you prep it up here in Northeastern Minnesota. I keep my garage heated all winter long but it is gauranteed to sweet every spring due to the fact that I have no vapor barrier.I should be kicked in the nuts for not putting down a poly vapor barrier before I had my slab poured but it's to late now!
 
I've done this twice now. Once on fresh concrete in my home shop then in my real shop with scarifier prepping the concrete. Both times I used two part urethane. One was DuPont Corlar, the other a two part urethane from Sherwin Williams. If I had to do it again I'd pay extra for polished concrete. I don't care how good or expensive the paint is, it's going to fail at some point. I agree that shot blasting is a great idea. Then the product can be applied by a pro who walks on spikes to get a smooth finish. Either way its thousands to do it properly.
 
Floor prep is THE single most important procedure in determining how long the coating lasts IMO.

As far as the spikes go.......an old pair of golf shoes work great.
 
It's actually a good idea to get a concrete finisher and use a sanding disc on it. Anything you can do to give the concrete some tooth to hold the paint.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top