best ignition switch?

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no1newb

no1newb

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I bought a new ignition switch last year from o'reillys and now i believe this one has crapped out on me already.

it turn the starter and let back a little bit and the starter turns off, but the engine keeps running good. then i let it go to the normal on/running position and the engine cuts off. so i would assume its the ignition switch, but im not positive.
 
the car kept running for about a min when i held the key in the right position, would that still have something to do with the ballast resistor?
 
but it will run when its in the start position, sorry but that doesnt make sense to me, but i dont know how the ignition system is wired i guess.
 
no1newb said:
but it will run when its in the start position, sorry but that doesnt make sense to me, but i dont know how the ignition system is wired i guess.
Click to expand...

Here's how Mopar ignition switches work:

There are three important wires involved

1 When you twist the key to start, one wire, commonly yellow, fires the start relay which receives a ground through the neutral safety switch (if auto) The contacts of the start relay then fire up the main solenoid on the starter.

2 ALSO in start, a SECOND set of contacts in the switch feeds power out a SECOND wire, normally brown, which feeds 12V directly to the coil. This is known as the "bypass" so the coil makes a hot spark in start. Chrysler calls this "ignition 2" This circuit drops out when you release the key to "run"

3 A THIRD set of contacts in the switch MAKE when you RELEASE the key back to "run." This wire, normally blue, feeds power through the ignition resistor. Chrysler calls this "ignition 1"

So if the resistor is bad, the brown will feed the coil as long as the key is held over to "start." IT IS POSSIBLE (I don't know) that the contacts in the switch may "drop" the starter out first, leaving the brown "bypass" circuit engaged


GM products and Ford products accomplish the "ignition bypass" by means of the solenoid. On earlier GM and Fords WHICH USE this circuit, the GM has 2 small terminals on the solenoid. One gets power "in start" from the key, the other terminal feeds OUT 12V when the solenoid is fired to power the coil. Ford works the same, except they use a fender mounted (improperly called solenoid) it's actually a huge relay or contactor.
 
67Dart273 said:
Here's how Mopar ignition switches work:

There are three important wires involved

1 When you twist the key to start, one wire, commonly yellow, fires the start relay which receives a ground through the neutral safety switch (if auto) The contacts of the start relay then fire up the main solenoid on the starter.

2 ALSO in start, a SECOND set of contacts in the switch feeds power out a SECOND wire, normally brown, which feeds 12V directly to the coil. This is known as the "bypass" so the coil makes a hot spark in start. Chrysler calls this "ignition 2" This circuit drops out when you release the key to "run"

3 A THIRD set of contacts in the switch MAKE when you RELEASE the key back to "run." This wire, normally blue, feeds power through the ignition resistor. Chrysler calls this "ignition 1"

So if the resistor is bad, the brown will feed the coil as long as the key is held over to "start." IT IS POSSIBLE (I don't know) that the contacts in the switch may "drop" the starter out first, leaving the brown "bypass" circuit engaged


GM products and Ford products accomplish the "ignition bypass" by means of the solenoid. On earlier GM and Fords WHICH USE this circuit, the GM has 2 small terminals on the solenoid. One gets power "in start" from the key, the other terminal feeds OUT 12V when the solenoid is fired to power the coil. Ford works the same, except they use a fender mounted (improperly called solenoid) it's actually a huge relay or contactor.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, helps me out a lot.
 
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