Best pass side exhaust manifold part #?

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Mopar92

Mopar92

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Trying to help out another Mopar buddy who refuses the internet. Poor guy. Anyway, he has a 69-70 drivers side manifold already. He's trying to find the largest exit hole diameter factory A body manifold. I'm not even sure what the largest was? 2 1/8"? Thanks for the info. Trying help this guy locate the right part.
 
this is the best
2863549/


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2863549 Is what I am looking for. Hope he knows what he's going to have to pay for it !
 
If originality is not important, why not consider the Magnum 5.2 and 5.9 truck manifolds? I've ran the RH manifold in a few cars. The 1992 and 1993 models had a 2 1/4' outlet and they exit behind # 8 exhaust port. This means fewer bends in the exhaust pipe, improving flow even more.
 

he wants to look original. he put a 360 manifold on once before. you have to get very creative on the bend to miss the torsion bar if I recall. Pretty well choking off any gains you may have made for a straight shot. That's what I'm doing on my Duster. He wanted the original look. I wanted to save some money.
 
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mopar save money ????!!!!:lol::rofl: this is NOT a Chevy/Ford forum. BUT we do save money /I think ?
NO screw in rocker studs/stud girdles
we have FORGED cranks in 340's/440's
we have X/J/O 2.02 valve options
the 727/883 are some of the best trans EVER BUILT
8 3/4 is one of the BEST rears besides the dana 60
and the hemi still rules new or old
You can go to a meet with a bondo/rusted chevy/ford and be a work in progress and be ok until a MOPAR shows up and hurts someones feelings, although even I have a soft spot for a AMC go pack AMX
 
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I agree //my motor is not producing over 400hp (which most agree here that is the limit for the stock manifolds) and Seeing the posts on headers regardless of brand and the longevity FOR my purpose stock manifolds/tti head pipes with a x cross over and stainless down stream is the way I'm going .
 
Me too. And I give up 15hp, I gain less headaches. I've run headers on street cars. Rusty, gaskets, collector gasket failure... im done with that at my age.
 
I will say //the tti head pipes are NICE and HEAVY and the flanges are thick !! worth the money//better than the accurate exhaust ones my friend bought!!
 
I am putting a 340 drivers side and 360 magnum passenger side. TTI doesn't make what I need for the passenger side. Going to have to get crafty. My neighbor runs a very nice muffler shop. Going to have him make a setup. He mandrel bends there too.
 
The 96/97/98 Jeep Grand Cherokee passenger side manifold is the cheapest highest flowing cast iron manifold that you can buy. It came from the factory with a 2 1/8" exit hole. The manifold exits in the best location for flow and clearance. It is 1/6 the cost of a 340 passenger's side manifold. I used to buy these manifolds and machine them out to 2 1/4" but have closed up my shop because it wasn't worth all the trouble (didn't want to charge enough to make it worth it).
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Treblig
 
Is that what I got from you? I bought maybe your last set a month or so ago. I have not even opened them up yet. A local Mopar guy has tasked me with finding him an HP for the pass side though, the reason for this thread. Do you recall what passenger side you sent me ? Appears you have to craft a wild adapter to clear the t bars. My next door neighbor has a very nice muffler shop with a mandrel bender as well. Was just going to let him craft it all at once.
 
Mopar92 said:
Is that what I got from you? I bought maybe your last set a month or so ago. I have not even opened them up yet. A local Mopar guy has tasked me with finding him an HP for the pass side though, the reason for this thread. Do you recall what passenger side you sent me ? Appears you have to craft a wild adapter to clear the t bars. My next door neighbor has a very nice muffler shop with a mandrel bender as well. Was just going to let him craft it all at once.
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Yes, that's what I sent you. The passenger's side magnum doesn't require any special adapter or pipe bending. It's a straight shot (45 degrees) out/down the right side of the engine. The driver's side (340) will require some fancy pipe work to make something that won't "choke off" the exhaust. Unless the muffler shop (I seriously doubt) has a mandrel pipe bender they're not going to have an easy time of it. That's why I started making the 120 degree down pipe for the driver's side. I would buy the tightest radius mandrel bent pipe and cut/fit/weld it to the 340 flat flared pipe. There's very little room on the driver's side. Without mandrel bent pipe it's almost impossible to clear the torsion bar.
Although I stopped making the 120 degree 340 down pipes I still have some mandrel bent donut sections left over. I also have some flat flared pipe, 360 bell shaped pipes and flange adapters.

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Treblig
 
He has a mandrel bender and is a pretty crafty guy. He's my neighbor and a good guy. I'm mistaken, I thought it was the passenger side that needed your "hand made" piece. Again I have not even unpacked them. The engine should be done very soon. So I will be able to start mocking it up. Why does the drivers side require so much fabrication... you'd think a factory manifold for that car would work... or it's the TA that makes it difficult. I've confused myself !
 
I've never seen a factory down pipe on a factory 340 car (I know they exist but I've never seen one). The factory probably had a factory bent pipe on there. I know that TTI makes the driver's side piping (for the 340 manifolds) and from what I've seen the pipe has a pretty serious bend in it to clear the torsion bar, it's also very expensive!!!. The problem with the 340 driver's down pipe is that you have to bend a piece of pipe that already has a flat flared end, no muffler shop can do that. You can't put a flat flare on a bent piece of pipe if the bend is close to the place where the flat flare has to be. I guess if you have some kind of special fixture and flaring device you could do it otherwise you have to weld a mandrel bent pipe to a short section of flat flared pipe like in the pics I posted.
If someone else has found a simple (and great flowing and inexpensive) solution to this problem I'd love to hear/see it!!

Treblig
 
Here is a pic from Accurate LTD sight. Man Mopar made a pretty good manifold to kill it with a head pipe huh. Wow.

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Here's what my home made down pipe looked like after installation...no dents, 2 1/2 mandrel pipe.:

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You can see the torsion bar, I had about 1/2 clearance which was plenty. YES, it's a waste of time to buy an expensive 340 manifold only to choke it down!!

Treblig
 
That looks pretty good to me! I mean it was a waste for Mopar to make a good manifold and then have to design a choked pipe. Seems like they over engineered themselves into a corner.
 
when I get mine done I will post (stock 340 hp manifolds/tti head pipes)
 
I happen to have the passenger side ready to sell. It is not primo but will work great . We did some port /flow improvement work years ago and added a bit of braise to the floor to better match a set of heads it was on. It can be removed easily to match your ports.

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Mopar92 said:
Is that what I got from you? I bought maybe your last set a month or so ago. I have not even opened them up yet. A local Mopar guy has tasked me with finding him an HP for the pass side though, the reason for this thread. Do you recall what passenger side you sent me ? Appears you have to craft a wild adapter to clear the t bars. My next door neighbor has a very nice muffler shop with a mandrel bender as well. Was just going to let him craft it all at once.
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I also got a set from Treblig right before Christmas. He was great and the manifolds are very nice! I also haven't put them on yet, but I plan on getting one of the 2.5" TTI systems. I'm saving up to pay for it. Haven't decided on the H or X pipe yet. Hopefully I'll have enough by June or so. If yours is done before then, please post pics as I am trying to figure out the passenger side hookup.

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