Best procedure lugs into hub/rotor

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Creedmoor

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Got two mint KH SBP hubs and a set of mid 90’s new USA made rotors to assemble with new lugs (Dorman 610-130). Not sure of best procedure to do this. Should I use a press to push them in one at a time through both components simultaneously or use a hammer and punch? Already got new races in and don’t want to screw up these parts. As always, advice and suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
If the press is handy use it. Last resort is to hammer them in.If you do, support the hub/rotor from the front with a large socket or the like for the stud to protrude out while tapping them in from the back.
You want the least amount of distortion.
 
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Press would be my first choice. Drawing them in with lug nuts and washers would be my second if a press isn't available. I suppose you could rig up something to use a vice, but, I've never tried that.
 
Press is the only way to go.

If stuck on the side of the road, hammer and punch.

NEVER NEVER NEVER. Pull the studs into the hub / rotor. The OEM studs are torqued to 55 lbs. It would take many times more torque to pull them in stretching the stud and setting you up to loose a wheel.


You can protect the bearing parts with rags and tape.
 
If you properly lube those parts, they "pull" into the hub easily without distorting the stud or lug nut.
 
no love for an installer tool?

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no love for an installer tool?

View attachment 1716217985
Dana67Dart thinks yanking on the stud will damage it. I've pulled those studs into rear axle shafts and front hubs for 55 years now without an issue. When the rear axle is out of the housing, sure, I use a press as it's faster. I've done it both ways on a front. If I'm changing a drum and all 5 studs, I use the press. Just changing one broken stud, I usually just pull one in with nuts and washers.
 
Dana67Dart thinks yanking on the stud will damage it. I've pulled those studs into rear axle shafts and front hubs for 55 years now without an issue. When the rear axle is out of the housing, sure, I use a press as it's faster. I've done it both ways on a front. If I'm changing a drum and all 5 studs, I use the press. Just changing one broken stud, I usually just pull one in with nuts and washers.
i just look at it this way: the studs are now "pre-stretched" for when i overtorque the lugnuts.

all kidding aside, i made basically that tool out of a piece of black gas pipe, some washers and a roller thrust bearing from amazon. heat the flange, freeze the studs, squirt some slippery stuff around and they practically jump right in the holes. a hot saturday night, if you will.

but if i got it all apart? sure, i'll press 'em in. but i'm not going out of my way and doing battle with spiders in the dusty corner of the shop for one stud. F that noise.
 
Dana67Dart thinks yanking on the stud will damage it
Next time you do one use a torque wrench and keep upping the torque till you feel it is seated and report back.

You can also get a large caliper and measure the length before and after install.
 
Next time you do one use a torque wrench and keep upping the torque till you feel it is seated and report back.

You can also get a large caliper and measure the length before and after install.
The proper torque spec is more than enough to seat the stud.
 
The proper torque spec is more than enough to seat the stud.
Yes it is and if it's not, something's wrong. Now, that said, the way I do it IF I have the hubs, rotors or axles out where I can get it the back of the studs is, I take an air chisel punch and pop them in from the back. Just a few pops with an air chisel and they are seated. The technically "correct" way is to drive them in from the back, but who wants to do that if ALL you need is to replace the studs?
 
Yes it is and if it's not, something's wrong. Now, that said, the way I do it IF I have the hubs, rotors or axles out where I can get it the back of the studs is, I take an air chisel punch and pop them in from the back. Just a few pops with an air chisel and they are seated. The technically "correct" way is to drive them in from the back, but who wants to do that if ALL you need is to replace the studs?
+ a little *brrt* *brrt*

when i worked at deere there was a guy that used air hammer for everything and all the damn time. tie rods, grease caps, lugs, studs, clips, pins, bearings, nothing was safe. we used to joke that he used the brrt brrt more than a ratchet, but the dude always beat the book.
 
+ a little *brrt* *brrt*

when i worked at deere there was a guy that used air hammer for everything and all the damn time. tie rods, grease caps, lugs, studs, clips, pins, bearings, nothing was safe. we used to joke that he used the brrt brrt more than a ratchet, but the dude always beat the book.
Well I'll tell you honestly. It's one of my favorite tools, BUT you have to exercise caution. A lot of people don't. It's a miniature jackhammer and should be treated as such.
 
These hubs are getting really hard to find in good condition. I would be going out of my way not to chance warping them!!!
 
These hubs are getting really hard to find in good condition. I would be going out of my way not to chance warping them!!!
You said a mouthful and when they're gone, they're gone!
 
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