Best valve cover gaskets?

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Mopar to ya

Mopar to ya

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I have a 318 with M/T valve covers. I found three invoices in the glove box from the PO having the gaskets changed. They were leaking when I got it. I just put in a new cam and changed them with Fel-Pro gaskets but I see they are leaking already. Is there a better gasket than another? Any special tricks to seal them? :banghead:
 
Mopar to ya said:
I have a 318 with M/T valve covers. I found three invoices in the glove box from the PO having the gaskets changed. They were leaking when I got it. I just put in a new cam and changed them with Fel-Pro gaskets but I see they are leaking already. Is there a better gasket than another? Any special tricks to seal them? :banghead:
Click to expand...

Fel-Pro's are fine.
A trick I have found to seal valve covers.
Clean the valve cover sealing area.
Gaskacinch the gasket to the valve cover. Make sure you put sealant on both mating surfaces (gasket,valve cover)
Do not put sealant on the gasket side that mounts to the head.
Let gaskacinch set up a bit, and then install gasket onto valve cover.
Next put valve cover on hand tight. Do not torque it down yet.
Let it dry for a couple hours, then torque to spec.

Valve covers now will not leak, and can come on and off.

What I have found, is most the time the oil "Does Not" leak between the head and gasket, but rather it leaks between the valve cover and gasket.
 
I have had good luck with Cork gaskets especially when using fabbed aluminum covers cause the rails most of the time are not true and straight from all he heat welding them. The cork squishes more than the rubber or Rubber/steel core gaskets and helps with the imperfect rail.
 
I've had better luck using cork gaskets too. I install them the way Johnny said, glue them to the valve cover.

I just used the Mopar metal core gaskets on my new 408 with Iron Ram heads and they seem to work well so far (fingers crossed). I'm not so sure they'd work great on LA heads (if that's what you have) as the valve cover surface isn't machined on them. It's as cast.
 
The ones I have are leaking at the tabs that are supposed to keep them from moving. I always use contact cement to hold them in place. I will have to try and find some cork gaskets.
 
Cometic makes some awesome valve cover gaskets that are designed to be used multiple times. In fact, most of their gaskets can be reused. I'm sure that's why their prices are a little over competitiors, but they are nice.

S
 
I agree with Johnny Dart. I have good luck with Fel Pro's. Most cork gaskets are impregnated with rubber and seal well. toolman
 
I know it's true with Mopar Performance valve covers that with aftermarket aluminum intakes sometimes the valve covers will hit the intake runners. I had to shave notches for the intake runners. Might want to make sure it's not touching the intake.

I use Fel-Pro without any problems.
 
Rubber for me , but I have the factory chrome valve covers , not the alu ones . Had cork gaskets but they started leaking after a few weeks use , now have the rubber gaskets and no leak , 3000 miles . I seal them to the covers then install hour or so later .
Cork gaskets have always leaked ether they tear or compress to much , don't know , but they have always given me trouble
 
X2! I hate cork gaskets.... i have had them break down over time and leak, and even found peices stuck in oil pump screens........Nothing but rubber gaskets for me.
 
have seen folks turn the cover upside down and use the ball end of a ball peen hammer to put a little dent over the holes so the bolt will pull down tight when they were prone to leaking. i always use cork myself.
 
They also make special washers that spread out along the valve cover and apply pressure over a larger area
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-6396-Valve-Cover/dp/B000BWE4IG"]http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-6396-Valve-Cover/dp/B000BWE4IG[/ame]
 
Well, all that is available around here is Fel-Pro rubber unless I want to wait and order something else. Patience is not my strong suit. They seem to leak at the tabs that are supposed to hold them in place. I think I am going to cut the tabs off and use a sealer similar to Gaskacinch (not available here) to hold them in place during install. I'll let you all know how this works. Thanks for all the advice and posts!
 
Having valve cover gaskets that don't leak simply takes some attention to detail.

No matter what you decide to use if you follow the following procedures you'll never have a leaky valve cover gasket.

1. Remove valve covers and thoroughly clean both mating surfaces, I mean super clean. Use lacquer thinner, acetone, or brake cleaner to get the surfaces COMPLETELY free of oil and grease.

2. Place a thin layer of Permatex Ultra-Blue and the valve cover sealing area, place a thin layer of Permatex Ultra-Blue on the valve cover gasket on the side that is going to be placed on the valve cover. YES, you will have Permatex on both halves that are going to join.

3. WAIT 10 Minutes until the Permatex "Skins" on both halves.

4. Place the valve cover gasket on the valve cover pushing the two parts together.

5. WAIT 10 Minutes for the Permatex to setup a bit.

6. Place a thin layer of Permatex on the valve cover gasket. Make 100% percent sure there isn't ANY oil on the sealing surface of the head.

7. WAIT 10 Minutes for the Permatex to skin.

8. Place valve cover on engine and GENTLY torque to the required spec. I think its 15 LBS or less.

9. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART. WAIT 24 HOURS, Yes 24 hours for the Permatex to completely cure. THEN and ONLY THEN should you start your motor.

I used this technique on both my 340 Duster and a Volkswagen Dune Buggy, (VW motors are notorious for leaky valve covers.) and it worked every time.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Another point to be made is re torque the bolts after you have ran the engine. Let it go thorough a couple of heat cycles then re torque. I have torqued the bolts to specs and had to re torque them later. I was amazed of how loose the were when I re torqued them. I ran the Mopar Performace valve covers if that makes any difference.
 
mullinax95 said:
Another point to be made is re torque the bolts after you have ran the engine. Let it go thorough a couple of heat cycles then re torque. I have torqued the bolts to specs and had to re torque them later. I was amazed of how loose the were when I re torqued them. I ran the Mopar Performace valve covers if that makes any difference.
Click to expand...

I installed the Fel-Pro using a hylomar sealant. I cleaned the head surface with a roloc disc and then brake cleaner. I cleaned all oil from the valve cover. I torqued to the proper 40 inch lbs. After a long drive, the last half of which my motor smoked like a smokestack, I found them leaking like a sieve. I checked the torque and they were extremely loose. I retourqued them but had enough for one day. I will drive again tomorrow and recheck torque.
 
Mopar to ya said:
I installed the Fel-Pro using a hylomar sealant. I cleaned the head surface with a roloc disc and then brake cleaner. I cleaned all oil from the valve cover. I torqued to the proper 40 inch lbs. After a long drive, the last half of which my motor smoked like a smokestack, I found them leaking like a sieve. I checked the torque and they were extremely loose. I retourqued them but had enough for one day. I will drive again tomorrow and recheck torque.
Click to expand...

I dont know why they do that but they will loosen up. I use blue Locktite on each bolt after I have torqued them down for the last time (after heat cycles). I remove one bolt at a time and re install them one at a time.

I have never used any type of permatex on my valve covers. They don't need it. Think about these guys that run mechanical cams..... they have to remove and replace the valve covers ever so often for valve adjustment. It doesn't hurt to tack it up with a little of it to hold the gasket in place on the valve cover until you get the bolts start but that's it. I don't even do that however. If you use FelPro gaskets, make sure contact surfaces are clean, and re torque after heat cycles you will be good to go.
 
Mopar to ya said:
I installed the Fel-Pro using a hylomar sealant. I cleaned the head surface with a roloc disc and then brake cleaner. I cleaned all oil from the valve cover. I torqued to the proper 40 inch lbs. After a long drive, the last half of which my motor smoked like a smokestack, I found them leaking like a sieve. I checked the torque and they were extremely loose. I retourqued them but had enough for one day. I will drive again tomorrow and recheck torque.
Click to expand...

Bummer.:banghead: I had the same problem using rubber Fel-pro's on aluminum valve covers. I have used rubber Fel-pro's on steel valve covers and they worked great but I don't know why but they would never seal up on my aluminum covers.. Changed to cork and glued them to the valve covers like we said earlier and they never leaked 1 drop again. I even took them off and re-installed them at least 4 times with that same set of gaskets and they never leaked.

p.s. with most any gaskets, I install them and if it's one I use sealer on I let it set up over night then start the engine and bring it up to operating temp. and shut if off, let it cool completely then re-torque them. That seems to help a lot at preventing leaks. It's time consuming but it works.

Also check that the valve covers aren't hitting the intake runners like Mully mentioned. I've had a couple sets that happened on and no gasket you install will seal up cause it isn't letting the valve cover pull down tight. I had to grind/file clearance on my valve covers so they cleared the intake. I've only seen this happen on aluminum covers.
 
Joe Dokes said:
Having valve cover gaskets that don't leak simply takes some attention to detail.

No matter what you decide to use if you follow the following procedures you'll never have a leaky valve cover gasket.

1. Remove valve covers and thoroughly clean both mating surfaces, I mean super clean. Use lacquer thinner, acetone, or brake cleaner to get the surfaces COMPLETELY free of oil and grease.

2. Place a thin layer of Permatex Ultra-Blue and the valve cover sealing area, place a thin layer of Permatex Ultra-Blue on the valve cover gasket on the side that is going to be placed on the valve cover. YES, you will have Permatex on both halves that are going to join.

3. WAIT 10 Minutes until the Permatex "Skins" on both halves.

4. Place the valve cover gasket on the valve cover pushing the two parts together.

5. WAIT 10 Minutes for the Permatex to setup a bit.

6. Place a thin layer of Permatex on the valve cover gasket. Make 100% percent sure there isn't ANY oil on the sealing surface of the head.

7. WAIT 10 Minutes for the Permatex to skin.

8. Place valve cover on engine and GENTLY torque to the required spec. I think its 15 LBS or less.

9. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART. WAIT 24 HOURS, Yes 24 hours for the Permatex to completely cure. THEN and ONLY THEN should you start your motor.

I used this technique on both my 340 Duster and a Volkswagen Dune Buggy, (VW motors are notorious for leaky valve covers.) and it worked every time.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

Using your system is a no go for me....... If you have a Solid Cam you will be replacing and scraping the gasket out of the Valve Cover at every Valve adjustment along with trying to get all the pieces of gasket and sealer out of the heads.
 
Mad Dart said:
Using your system is a no go for me....... If you have a Solid Cam you will be replacing and scraping the gasket out of the Valve Cover at every Valve adjustment along with trying to get all the pieces of gasket and sealer out of the heads.
Click to expand...


That's what I was wondering. Notice my post #21. "Think about these guys that run mechanical cams..... they have to remove and replace the valve covers ever so often for valve adjustment."

I have had great success with the FelPros in which when I take the valve cover off the gasket would stay on the valve covers. Then I reuse the same gasket when I install the valve covers back on. Maybe I'm just lucky. lol
 
All VWs have mechanical cams. I adjusted my valves three to four times per year. I'd simply do the following.

1. Set the lash cold, you can do it there are a number of different methods, learn one.

2. I'd start say Saturday Afternoon. Remove the valve covers, clean everything, and adjust the valves. Cleaning everything well only takes about thirty minutes when you've done it a few times. The RTV comes off pretty easy with a sharp putty knife. Total Time: 90 Minutes
3. Put everything back together. Following the above procedure. Total Time: 30 Minutes
4. Total time to remove valve covers, adjust valves, clean covers, glue gaskets in place and reassemble 2 Hours, 3 the first time.

4. Wait 12-24 Hours.
5. Then drive the car.

Yes, you have to wait, sorry no instant gratification. I still remember when I learned the above procedure. I was out in the desert and saw a VW motor that didn't leak, I was astounded. EVERY and I mean EVERY VW motor I'd ever seen leaked somewhere, somehow, I thought it was like a Harley. So I ask the guy, "Why doesn't your motor leak?" He explained the various sealers used, and then gave me the secret. Slow the F Down. You're not in the pits at the Indy 500. You're not between rounds at the NHRA finals. It isn't a race to see how fast you can get the car back together.

Take your time.

Be Meticulous, everything clean dry. EVERY TIME.

After about a year of struggling, my VW motor was finally leak free. One leak at a time, meticulous, cleanliness, and the right sealant worked. That and making sure the motor has enough breathers.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
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