Big block cooling issues

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74 Dart , 440
I’m having the same problem. Have 1row Griffin radiator, this is the biggest I can put in. Have March pulley system plus Magnum Force coilover , rack and pinion K member. Support pipes on the side power steering pulley close to fan. Have high volume water pump, high flow thermostat. Did ok in cool weather but live in south Texas. Have even put that stuff that is supposed to cool down 20 -30 degrees. Looking into another radiator. Run two radiators. Going to go to the Martin Bros. Shop and ask them about what I can do. Some people are saying it’s ok to run 195 - 210 , I don’t like that high

u know those march pullies aren`t helping dont you ?
 
On my 1972 dart with 440, i fought overheating for years sitting still or low speeds. I had the original small block radiator and shroud, a flex fan and no thermostat. I finally got tired of the hot running and did some changing up. I installed a nice aluminum cold case radiator with the big cooling tubes, used the original shroud again, and found a factory 7 blade fan, AND installed a high flow miloden 180 degree thermostat..it was the best thing ive ever done to this car! It will sit and idle all day long in 100 degree Tennessee heat and never go over 180 degrees and as long as the car is moving it drops down to about 170. I wish i had done all this years ago!
 
On my 1972 dart with 440, i fought overheating for years sitting still or low speeds. I had the original small block radiator and shroud, a flex fan and no thermostat. I finally got tired of the hot running and did some changing up. I installed a nice aluminum cold case radiator with the big cooling tubes, used the original shroud again, and found a factory 7 blade fan, AND installed a high flow miloden 180 degree thermostat..it was the best thing ive ever done to this car! It will sit and idle all day long in 100 degree Tennessee heat and never go over 180 degrees and as long as the car is moving it drops down to about 170. I wish i had done all this years ago!


The factory style 088 radiator, shroud and 7 blade + 180 Milodon t-stat does the same! Sometime folks over think things! I sure did in the past! In your case you got smart and went back to basics. Good for you!
 
Iirc, Hayden 2947 low profile fan clutch, Derale 18" fan, stock rad, 180 stat, no shroud, no room for a shroud really.

383, zero temp issues. Did this years ago, I looked at my summit account and it's either too far back to find the exact order with part #s or I just can't locate.

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So at what temperature will an engine overheat and cause damage or break down? My 440 (stock radiator and 7-blade fan) normally runs at 180-200 degrees. Was doing a charging test idling in drive for 15 minutes and it crept up to 230. As soon as I started driving, the temp dropped back to 180. When should you pull over?
 
So at what temperature will an engine overheat and cause damage or break down? My 440 (stock radiator and 7-blade fan) normally runs at 180-200 degrees. Was doing a charging test idling in drive for 15 minutes and it crept up to 230. As soon as I started driving, the temp dropped back to 180. When should you pull over?
my opinion, your fine.
 
As long as your oil pressure doesn't drop too far from the heat thinning it out, 230 doesn't sound dangerous. Depends on your piston-to-wall clearance, among other things...
Normal operating temp on my 22 year old BMW V8 is 108C which is 226F!
 
So at what temperature will an engine overheat and cause damage or break down? My 440 (stock radiator and 7-blade fan) normally runs at 180-200 degrees. Was doing a charging test idling in drive for 15 minutes and it crept up to 230. As soon as I started driving, the temp dropped back to 180. When should you pull over?

It depends on what pressure your radiator cap is and what antifreeze mix you’re running. But even with only a 7 psi cap and a 50/50 antifreeze mix you’re looking at a little under 250*F for boiling. If you run a 12 or 16psi cap it’s higher.

Normal operating temps between 180-200* are perfectly normal. At 230* you wouldn’t want it getting much hotter. And I wouldn’t want to see 230* regularly under normal conditions. Given that you were at idle in drive, and it isn’t partially hot outside right now, I would suspect your fan is a little bit on the weak side for some reason. That’s backed up by the temperature dropping as soon as you drove it, which is a good thing and indicates your cooling system overall is probably just fine.

Do you have a fan shroud installed? Any kind of fan clutch? Stock or aftermarket pulleys? Might have a small mismatch or slight loss of efficiency related to the fan at idle. It would be pretty minor if it’s anything at all though.
 
So at what temperature will an engine overheat and cause damage or break down? My 440 (stock radiator and 7-blade fan) normally runs at 180-200 degrees. Was doing a charging test idling in drive for 15 minutes and it crept up to 230. As soon as I started driving, the temp dropped back to 180. When should you pull over?
t-stat might have not opened sitting? 180-200 is fine. 230 is fine if you are not running that temp all the time. The concern I have is if it continues to creep beyond 230 if you leave it sit even longer.
 
So how do you install a one piece radiator shroud? The space between the radiator and blades is about 1/2 inch. I doubt I could get the fan off bolts out, then back in. Does the shroud bend? Mancini Racing Radiator Fan Shroud

View attachment 1715661515

That fan is probably too close to the radiator anyway. The fan will need to sit so that it's about 1" inside the outer lip of the fan shroud. Remove the fan and spacer, mock up the radiator shroud, determine how much fan spacer you need to locate the fan a 1/2" to 1" inside the shroud if possible, then remove the shroud from the radiator and hang it off the pulley. Install the fan and proper spacer (if a spacer is even necessary), then slide the shroud back over the fan and up to the radiator and bolt it on.

And the good news is that your heating at idle situation will likely improve quite a bit with a good fan shroud.

Can't you get more clearance without that 2" spacer?

Yeah exactly!
 
That fan is probably too close to the radiator anyway. The fan will need to sit so that it's about 1" inside the outer lip of the fan shroud. Remove the fan and spacer, mock up the radiator shroud, determine how much fan spacer you need to locate the fan a 1/2" to 1" inside the shroud if possible, then remove the shroud from the radiator and hang it off the pulley. Install the fan and proper spacer (if a spacer is even necessary), then slide the shroud back over the fan and up to the radiator and bolt it on.

And the good news is that your heating at idle situation will likely improve quite a bit with a good fan shroud.



Yeah exactly!

You could use an alum fan shroud , and make it a 2 piece like the older chevy pick ups--------------
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look down the side to see where the top unbolts from the bottom
 
You take the radiator out, slip the fan shroud over the fan and let it hang on the pulley, install the radiator and then attach the shroud to the radiator. Any more questions?
 
You take the radiator out, slip the fan shroud over the fan and let it hang on the pulley, install the radiator and then attach the shroud to the radiator. Any more questions?

Pulling the entire radiator is unnecessary. Lots easier just to take the 4 bolts out of the fan, especially since he'll probably have to change the spacer out anyway.
 
He asked. Make sure that you cardboard your pretty radiator fins.
 
So how do you install a one piece radiator shroud? The space between the radiator and blades is about 1/2 inch. I doubt I could get the fan off bolts out, then back in. Does the shroud bend? Mancini Racing Radiator Fan Shroud

View attachment 1715661515

Every piece works in harmony. I really do not care what everyone else will tell you, I will be called out, and have been many times! You have to start basic!

Use “every” original BB piece and work forward. If like me, and you do this this, you will stop at basically the stock set-up + High flow pump and HF 185 stat and smile! Look at the 68/69 FSM and get the right parts! My car is an original 383S and bumped a bit.

I went down that road for no reason and spent many years and dollars being frustrated!

The HF pump and Milodon 185 stat + all stock are the best IMO!
 
He asked. Make sure that you cardboard your pretty radiator fins.

Yeah, he asked how to install the radiator shroud. But unless someone used bolts that are too long, there's absolutely no reason to remove the radiator. 5 minutes with a ratcheting wrench and you're good to go, no need to drain and remove the radiator. Especially since it's unlikely he'll be reusing that super long spacer.
 
I am running a Factory 26" radiator and low profile fixed blade fan, no shroud, and a 180 tstat in my 440 Demon. It runs 180 all day regardless of outside Temps and has started to creep to 190 at a stop in traffic now that I removed the hood.

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