Yes, make it wider and taller so my radiator could go further forward and away from the water pump pulley.
Big block cooling issues
- Thread starter Craig Burriss
- Start date
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Yes exactly. The hardest part would be dealing with the radiator cap I think.
Total thickness is 3”
74 Dart , 440
I’m having the same problem. Have 1row Griffin radiator, this is the biggest I can put in. Have March pulley system plus Magnum Force coilover , rack and pinion K member. Support pipes on the side power steering pulley close to fan. Have high volume water pump, high flow thermostat. Did ok in cool weather but live in south Texas. Have even put that stuff that is supposed to cool down 20 -30 degrees. Looking into another radiator. Run two radiators. Going to go to the Martin Bros. Shop and ask them about what I can do. Some people are saying it’s ok to run 195 - 210 , I don’t like that high
I’m having the same problem. Have 1row Griffin radiator, this is the biggest I can put in. Have March pulley system plus Magnum Force coilover , rack and pinion K member. Support pipes on the side power steering pulley close to fan. Have high volume water pump, high flow thermostat. Did ok in cool weather but live in south Texas. Have even put that stuff that is supposed to cool down 20 -30 degrees. Looking into another radiator. Run two radiators. Going to go to the Martin Bros. Shop and ask them about what I can do. Some people are saying it’s ok to run 195 - 210 , I don’t like that high
famous bob
mopar misfit
Mine dont even run right till it hits 190---------------
famous bob
mopar misfit
Is that a filler between the rad. support and the rad. ? looks like ur rad. aint mounted right in the pic , it should be up tite against the cradle or dang close.
Like I said in the post you quoted, the radiator is pushed all the way forwards.
The end tanks are thicker than the radiator core leaving a small gap between the radiator support and the radiator core. I have speed tape covering any gaps.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
This is not correct. The cooler the better. The cooler the more detonation resistant the engine will be. Cooler makes more horsepower every time.
You have to get the tune up correct for cooler engine temperatures, but cooler always makes more power. I run mine just warm enough so I have heat in the winter. For me, that’s 170.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I have to disagree a little , remember when burn downs crearted too much h.p. in the hemi top fuel cars? most always resulted in loss of traction and up in smoke.
My hemi would make more h/p the hotter it got to a certain point , and always hurt my tracttion , it was traction limited back then tho-----bad strip for huge torque and h.p. in a heavy car..
Bill jenkins even heated his prostockers to the melting of heads when it came down to the $$ race. Read his book on the ''small block chevy racing engine'' , if u dont believe me .
Other than that I would rather have it cooler than hotter too.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Burning nitro is a whole nother deal! Not sure why your hemi made more power with higher engine temps. There isn’t anyone I know of not chilling their engines for more power. When you want to make a hero pull on the dyno you drop the coolant temp.
Running 17-0 does nothing for engine longevity.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
That temperature (or colder if you don’t need a heater) will be hard on the engine IF you don’t tune for it. That’s one of the reasons I can run as much compression on pump gas as I do. I keep the temp down, make sure the crossover is blocked (or better yet, use an intake manifold that doesn’t even have a crossover) and tune accordingly. If you saw the tune up I run in my carb, you’d probably think it’s screaming lean.
Like everything else, you have to account for what you do.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I have a 28x19 griffin crossflow /2 row/ 1 1/4'' tubes , hi flow water pump/overdriven/vented hood , and it still on the edge, not having a real problem tho.
Like I said , it doesnt even run right /clean till it hits around 190 . I just fpound a problem w/e
Agree , but it did , and elephant motors do------
Added some ‘99 ford contour fans, a 180° thermostat, and a Meziere (or however you spell it) electric water pump. Cooling issues resolved! Drove the car to drag strip and hot lapped it a few times, letting it idle in the staging lanes for 15 minutes at a time between runs, and the temp never got over 195°!
FINALLY
FINALLY
mopowers
Well-Known Member
That's great to hear. You got any photos of the install???
This is the only picture I have right now. It looks a little ghetto, but I haven’t had time to make it nice yet haha
There’s about an inch between the shroud and the water pump.
This was before I swapped over to a Chevy style alt.
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
It looks fine... molded radiator hoses would clean up the appearance (and flow better too)
An inch?? That's a HUGE amount of clearance when it comes to big-block A-bodies
nice. what controller are you using to run the fans?
famous bob
mopar misfit
Ditch the one row rad. , get a 2 row w/1 1/4'' tubes , wide as possible if crossflow .
famous bob
mopar misfit
I didnt cut my rad. support /440/505 in a 68 fastback . I didnt even cut the opening out to expose the tanks on the crossflow .
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