You could do like the V8
Monza from yrs ago, and cut a hole in the fender to get to the plug
Big Block Low Deck engine install in 68 Dart
- Thread starter 1967 Cuda
- Start date
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Monza from yrs ago, and cut a hole in the fender to get to the plug
I did mine the only way I could, from the driver's side with a hoist and really had to get creative since my garage door channel was in the way.
I can't fit my front plate from underneath yet.
I can't fit my front plate from underneath yet.
Uncle Bob
Shiny paint causes stress.
I followed your lead and lifted a small block/4-speed on the k-frame into my Duster using a cherry picker and juggling jackstands. I put the car on a pair of tall jackstands before I dropped the k-frame out to begin with (no engine, had elephant ears), hooked on to the k-frame and dropped it to the floor.
Going back in I had to pick the car by the rad support to go up a few inches more to get the unit underneath. Then I took those tall stands out, put low stands under it, and had about an inch between the k-frame and the frame rail so I picked the engine up a little bit and bolted it all in place. Don't get in a hurry because I ended up having to stop and figure out why my transmission mount wouldn't bolt up and realized I shouldn't have tightened up the motor mount brackets so soon.
I just built off a $12 cart and a rolling transmission jack both from Harbor Freight. I stood 2x6s on edge on the cart and sandwiched them between 2x4s and screwed 2x4s across the top of the 2x6s. I stuck a jackstand under the drag link to keep the engine from falling off backward until I had the transmission installed and supported on the rolling jack.
It took more than a couple of hours all in but I did it alone and it wasn't a big deal.
Yeah it works great if you have the right tools. Taking your time and figuring out the next move is a smart idea the first time around. I had the engine in and out of my Duster more than a few times during the build process. Each time I improved the process and decreased the time.
The 1 ton bridge crane allowed me to "cheat" on a lot of stuff. I could pick up the front of the car and lower it back down over the engine and trans or I could lift the engine and transmission up into the car from below if the car was sitting on high jacks.
Uncle Bob
Shiny paint causes stress.
One pickle I got caught in was needing to pick up the front end after the K-frame was bolted in but before I had the engine off the cart. The cart was in the way of using a floor jack so I lifted the car up engine and all like this - pucker time but it held no problem to raise it up just enough to get the cart out.
I also proved that the cheap little HF cart will hold up the front end of the car and engine for at least a little while.
DieWilde13
Well-Known Member
Nice builds here.
On my Valiant with B Engine, the only Plug i hate to change is no. 6.
I drilled a "service hole" in the Fender to reach it. But its just because i used B-Body Headers and that thing is routing direct in front of the plug.
All others are easy.
On my Valiant with B Engine, the only Plug i hate to change is no. 6.
I drilled a "service hole" in the Fender to reach it. But its just because i used B-Body Headers and that thing is routing direct in front of the plug.
All others are easy.
I’m thinking of doing this. Help me get some things straight and give me some advice on steps to take from where my car is currently at.
Transmission is out. Control arms still connected, should I leave those on the car?
What are you placing the engine on to roll it around? Engine stand? Pallet on top of car dollies?
Where are you lifting the front end from without damaging it?
Transmission is out. Control arms still connected, should I leave those on the car?
What are you placing the engine on to roll it around? Engine stand? Pallet on top of car dollies?
Where are you lifting the front end from without damaging it?
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