Big block ?

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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When putting a big block in a A-body. Would there be any advantage of putting a 400 or 383 vs a 440. Would they fit better than the 440? Is there more room to work with?
 
I wouldn't think so. The only difference is a higher block on a 440. Takes up the same around of room. The only issue would be the height (hood closing) with certain air cleaners and carb/manifold setups. I think that's correct... Im sure more will pitch in. Later! :D
 
Same amount of work for a B vs RB. I chose the 440. Schumacher conversions makes it easy.

kenny b

new engine.jpg
 
It's a wash IMO. The B wedge fits easier around the blower motor and overall width. But because the ports are lower, you dont get any extra room to change plugs or anything. If you are using angle plug or raised exh port heads, you are much more limited in underchassis headers in the B wedge.
 
More room around the steering shaft if using B-body HP manifolds. As said before, more hood clearance. What are the intakes that don't fit? What fits a B that won't fit an RB?
 
Headers are wayy cheaper for the 383/400 in an A-body because you can use the cheap(like 120 bucks) B-body headers which arent as pretty as TTIs, and I bet they work better than the schumakers. We have a scamp we just got done dinging some tubes on the cheap headmans for putting the 383 in it(we have and empty block with heads on it and an empty727 case for this very thing its faster),I can snap some pics if you want to see(have to get a cpl diff spark plug boots no biggie),also have a duster w/440 and a set of schumakers on it,a 67 gt w/440 and a set of coated TTIs and out race car(68 dart post) has fenderwell headers.If you wanna see pics of any of them lemme know.You have better valvecover clearance with the 383/400 where the heater motor is. theres things you can do about it, all about an equal pain in the a$$. The big block swap isnt very difficult we've done 6 from start to finish all from /6 cars. We used the schumaker spool mounts on all but the race car which is motor plated. We used a later k-frame on the 67gt to be able to use spool mounts which is the only way Ive done it other than a plate. Drill a hole and do some grinding and thats the quick and dirty of it.
Good luck,
Marvin
 
I know in a B-Body the main concern with the 440 is finding valve covers that will not clear the brake assist vacuum can. I'm sure this may be a concern with yours too unless it's like mine and has manual brakes (but I'm not planning on a big block for my future swap)
 
Heres a pic of our 74 duster/440 with chrome mp valve covers not alot of room between the valve covers and the heater motor theres some but not much. The clearance will differ in production clearances, this is a tight as ive seen it with a rb in an A-body.Dunno if its the heads or not. We had more clearance with the 906s we took off. It has stage 6s on it now, another thing I noticed about the stage 6s is we cant get an air cleaner on it now either as we could with the 906s same performer rpm used with either heads and with the 906s we could get an air cleaner on it but not now. Ill figure something out. Ive done a B engine in an A-body with a flat hood before. Heres a pic of the hedman headers on a 383 driver side in the scamp:
0209091626.jpg

Good luck,
Marvin
 
Hi gearjammer340!
Got to pick your wisdom.

I have a 70 A body swinger with power steering, I got my hands on a 383 (stock) from a 68 coronet with headman heathers.
Do you foresee any problem with the steering gear and the B body headers?
 
A 383/400 is about 1.5 inches narrower than a 440. this translates to 3/4" of very precious extra room on either side. go with the 383/400 every time. they can both be built the same size with stroker cranks. 383/400's have shorter cylinders too which makes them stiffer and they stay round a little better which hels in ring seal.
 
Danbud61, sorry took so long to get back to you, I just finished up our dungeness crab season out of newport,oregon had to get all the gear out of the water but now I'm done. I've never tried to make power steering work with the headmans I dont know that there would be enough room for the bigger steering box with the cheaper headers. Ive done two b.b. abodies w/power steering, I used schumakers on one and manifolds on the other, both were B engines. A bb dart w/manual steering isnt dificult at all to drive around if thats what your worried about.
Good luck,
Marvin
 
Hey Gearjammer340!
Thanks for the reply.

Sorry to be a pain.:read2:

By the way, do you recall which manifolds you used?

Dan
 
well I managed to dry fit it in the hole (w/out trans) so far so good.
I used c body manifolds with some slight grinding on the m/fold at the steering shaft coupler.
As for the shoemaker mounts, the r/t side was two inches to thick, so I used the old B body mount bracket, drilled a center hole for the sandwich mount and voila! its in.
By the way, I kept the power steering, It clears the gear and hoses yet will need a heat shield.
For starter I'll be using a starter off a 96 ram which is smaller.
Cant wait to start it up!

Keep you updated.:cheers:

Dan
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Sounds like you're on the right track. What's the deal with the mount on the rt side? Could you post a pic of it? Those are the manifolds I used when I did mine. What are you gonna do for plug wires? If your gonna build your own have the alternator and pwr steering pump off of the engine and things will go alot smoother for getting to the plugs( you'll see what I mean when you get it all bolted together),What are your plans for a shifter? I dont have anything with manifolds on it anymore but if you need any pics of anything, lemme know.
Good luck,
Marvin
 
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