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BJR Racing

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This section will cover the Big Block Dodge engines 400s and 440s as the 383 is very close to the 400 with the bore being different only, as they share the same stroke and rod lenghts. The 440 was chosen because of the number of people that have them, the specs will apply to the 413 and 426 engines also as they all share the same strokes and rods, with the bore being different only. First the 400 engine.

Engine: 400 .020 with low compression 440 pistons
Compression: 10.83
all accessories installed
Heads: typical 70s production
Valves: Int. 2.08/ Exh. 1.74 with bowl porting on both sides
Intake: M-1
Carb: 780 vac.
Exh.: hedders 1 3/4" with 2.5" mufflers dual full exhaust rated @ 540 cfms
Camshaft: Comp cams 280H lift .480 with 230 duration @ .050
Octane: 89

Peak HP: 385 @ 5500 rpms
ave. HP: 316
Peak Torque: 409 @ 4500 rpms
ave. torque: 329

The reason for the 440 low compression pistons is before the KBs were around this is what had to be used to get the compression up with out buying a race piston. This engine would give a mild sound and great performance, pretty much a copy of the Road Runners of the late 60s.

Now for the 440.


Engine: 440 .030
compression: 11.76
all accessories installed from the 70s less A/C
Heads: typical 70s production
Valves: Int. 2.14/ Exh. 1.81 with bowl blending
Intake: M-1
Carb: 780 vac.
Exh.: Hedders 1 3/4" with full exhaust rated @ 540 cfms
Camshaft: Mopar P4120235 is a .484-284
Octane: 93

Peak HP: 395 @ 5500
ave.HP: 298
Peak Torque: 428 @ 4500
ave.torque: 322

This is pretty typical of the 440s of the 70s with some performance mods done. The engine is down on power and torque some due to the size of the valves. With the stock size valves the engine will respond better and produce better on the street, but this was just to show that the bigger valves on the street sometimes doesn't work.
Either engine should be able to run in the 11s in a A-Body with the chassis to go with it. This is just to also show that these engines can be run on pump gas even with compression. But if the cam is changed (to a larger one)then the compression will have to be reduced.


BJR Racing
 
The strokes are different between the 383 and the 440, the 383 has a stroke of 3.38 and the 440 has a stroke of 3.75. The bore on a 383 standard is 4.25 and the standard bore for a 440 is 4.32 if you were going to go this far on boring you better have the block sonic checked.
 
No,
The 383 and the 400 are the same strokes,at 3.38 and the RB engines are the 413,426,and the 440 have the same stroke 3.75.
 
Excellent Bobby! Im going to pull my 400/727 real soon. I plan on a 470 stroker build,and am seriously considering stealth heads. Any input or builds would be greatly appreciated as always!

Not sure if I'll go the aftermarket crank route or not. This a proven combo with the stock steel 440 crank. No need to cut the countrweights. The block can simply be ground with a die grinder.
 
Are you going to use a stock steel crank and have it offset ground or are you going with aftermarket crank? I'm doing one now with a stock steel crank offset ground to 3.915 and the rod is for a BBC so you would use a 6.650 rod and a 1.32 compression distance piston like the KB280 then have the rod opened up to the 1.09 pin. This would be just to save some cost. This would give you a 0 deck or very close depending on the block. Then use your choice of head and intake.
 
Yes,thats my plan exactly. My challenge is to find a steel 440 crank now.

It's too bad the manley rods arent available for this combo anymore. There are Eagle rod available but I think they are chevy width.
 
Hey Bobby, thanks for all the info was very helpful and very accurate. I will be getting in touch with you in the future just to pick your brain and get info on the tranny stuff we talked about, its nice to be able to know and talk with someone who's knowledgeable, and that takes the time to talk and help figure things out and who CALLS A PERSON BACK, VERY GOOD PUBLIC RELATIONS AND SAYS ALOT ABOUT YOUR CHARACTER AND WORK ETHICS, WILL RECOMMEND MY BUDDIES TO YOU ON ANYTHING MOPAR FOR YOUR EXPERIENCE AND PROVEN KNOWLEDGE AND WILLINGNESS TO HELP A PERSON WHOM YOU'VE NEVER MET.....GOES A LONG WAYS WITH PEOPLE.....KEN IN JOPLIN MO
 
not sure i follow you on the 440, why would you reduce c/r when your going to a larger cam? a larger cam needs more c/r to keep the cyl psi up, the 440 hp numbers are very low i've put together a few bb with the same setup and hp was always around the 430/440 mark, Are you running the total timing low or jetting it on the fat side to stay safe for street? just wondering.
 
The 440 has 11.76:1, the #'s are rear wheel and generally when the cams increase in lift and duration the overlap increases also, what I found is that as OL increases the detanation becomes more of a problem so timing has to be reduced.
 
Thanks Ken, I enjoyed talking with you too. Glad I could be of help to you, call anytime. As you know I return all calls that I get until the problem is sloved.
 
As usual,spot on advise and builds Bobby. I will have my greedy hands on a steel 440 crank as of Saturday. It's too bad we are so far apart or I would be sending my stuff to you! Shipping costs are sure to mess up that dream...

So if I were to go with the eagle rods,or the 440 source rods what piston would I use (think light)? I will very likely use eddie rpm big block heads and am leaning towards solid roller.Not sure here and would appreciate your input. I would like to visit low 11's or high 10's so I guess compression should be at least 10.5:1. THat will put me on the edge for pump gas even with aluminum heads. And yes,727,8 3/4 with 3:91 or 4:11 depending on tire. An overdrive will be in the future as well as I want to drive it and not rattle my brains out

The 400 will likely come out tommorow! AS long as I dont get caught in another lightning storm...
 
needsaresto said:
As usual,spot on advise and builds Bobby. I will have my greedy hands on a steel 440 crank as of Saturday. It's too bad we are so far apart or I would be sending my stuff to you! Shipping costs are sure to mess up that dream...

So if I were to go with the eagle rods,or the 440 source rods what piston would I use (think light)? I will very likely use eddie rpm big block heads and am leaning towards solid roller.Not sure here and would appreciate your input. I would like to visit low 11's or high 10's so I guess compression should be at least 10.5:1. THat will put me on the edge for pump gas even with aluminum heads. And yes,727,8 3/4 with 3:91 or 4:11 depending on tire. An overdrive will be in the future as well as I want to drive it and not rattle my brains out

The 400 will likely come out tommorow! AS long as I dont get caught in another lightning storm...
Click to expand...

What I would do is use the 440 crank in the 400 block as the 400 has a larger bore than the 440. I'm doing this build for myself also, but going about it differently. You can use the 440 rods as they are 4340 material from the factory, just as the 340/360/383/400 rods are 1053 steel. This is the same material (1053) as the NASCAR cranks are made from. The RB rods are the only ones from the factory that are made from this material that I know of. So the need for higher strength rods isn't necessary. Just use new rod bolts and shot peen them and resize them and you should be good to go. As for the pistons the KB280's are the lightest and cheapest ones that I've found.

As for the camshaft being a roller do you think that you really need to go this route with a OD unit on the street? If so you'll need to keep the duration down so the engine will have enough TQ and low RPM HP to make the OD unit work properly. Secondly I really don't think that the Eddy heads would be the best choice for the street either, as the runners are large and low rpm performance may suffer some. As air flow isn't anything to write home about with these heads. IMO I would use a good set of iron heads with small ports that would keep the velocity up and create more TQ and low rpm HP that would make it alot more useable with the OD unit. Alot of people shun these heads for new ones but don't realise what they've done till it's too late and they can't go back and change them. So they stay with a a set of heads that they really aren't pleased with. Now this isn't to say that the heads are bad but the combo is just off for the intentions they really wanted them to be used in.

Oh and shipping isn't that bad as all shippers have to be more competitive. A set of heads usually run's in the $100.00 range for shipping here in the US. I think the last set that I shipped was $98.00 or so.
 
Well,the reason I was thinking roller wasnt really because I want a huge cam. Im more concerned about the zinc in oil thing and would be really happy if I didnt need to break in a hydraulic again. Getting a bit tired of that whole scene,lol!!

So the 440 rods are the longer ones right? I can get a set fromthe same guy who has the crank. I think it's a 66 vintage 440? Cant remember exactly.

So porting the stock 400 heads and setting them on my 470 will give me 500+ h.p? Thats what I'll need.I could enquire after the heads on the 440.Would they be better?
 
They are the same heads as the 400's no difference. And yes get the 440 rods if you can. It'll save you some $$$$. The larger the intake port the higher the RPM's will go and the less TQ the engine will make down low. This would be a real stump puller with the smaller heads with some work done. The key in the stock heads and on a 440 + CI engine is the exh. side The longer the stroke the smaller the port when a long rod is used. And a 440 has a long rod. The rod's that I'm putting in is 7.250.

You have to think of your engine as a 440 and no more.
 
Hey Bobby,the good 440 rods have an LY on them? Any way I can I.D the ones I want or are they all the same?
 
Hey Bobby give me a call...got some crappy news about my 440...remember .060 trw-2295 dome piston, I tore the heads off just to check all my specs and found that piston is down in hole .065[deck height, but the dome is .145 so with the 84 cc eddy head whats the 'new comp' ? cam is the huhges HTL5660BS SOLID WITH 1.6 ROCKER RATIO...614-626 [email protected] 301-306 TOTAL 108 LSA....CALL ME
 
I cant believe I havent seen this before. Id like to run my build by ya and see what you think.

1975 440
Im using the stock crank and rods bored .060 over. (I may look for a steel crank)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-CSMHP818-600/ (Kit from Summit)
A set of 440 source stealth heads. (port/gasket matched)
Compression should be around 10.3
Weiand D port T-Ram 2x600 holley VS carbs

Cam is down to 2 choices.(unless you can suggest a better one)
This one from Huges
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...xpYw==&searchmode=keyword&page=2&partid=21861

Or this one from Comp Cams
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...duct_Code=23-712-9&Category_Code=WDGCAMhydRol

This car will mostly see the street use. But would like to have it perform at the track. Im not really looking for a specific time. Maybe close to 10s
Let me know what you think thanks.
 
eaglesguy1981j , I'm running a .040 over 440 with the stock crank and rods . edelbrock performer rpm heads with the 83cc combustion chambers and the same weind t-ram w/ 2-600cfm carter afb's . Its very street friendly and I'm in the low 11's . I'm running a hydraulic flat tap cam . I'm at work and don't have the cam specs but I don't see why you couldn't get down into the 10's . The stealth heads look like the same specs as the edelbrocks . I wish I knew about them when I bought mine . I could have saved some money .
 
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