Block crack

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Steve welder

Steve welder

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This is a 1948 Willy’s Jeep 134 flathead
The crack is from the threaded hole for a head stud to the water jacket coolant passages that run into the head
The stud hole is also into the water jacket
It can’t leak into the crankcase but it could leak externally or past the head gasket
What are my options
This is the numbers matching block

704A09A0-FE8E-4917-9751-F3CDC599AFBE.jpeg
 
Put it together and run water and liquid glass(egg sealer) in it.
Get it hot. Then drain it and let it air dry.
That should seal the crack.
 
Stich n lock will work, not welding plugs you put in then have it re decked. They work great.
1667735434724.png
 
Willy’s had block numbers tied to the VIN in 1948?
 
Steve welder said:
Ray the cracked area is maybe 5/16 long on each side, would that still work
Click to expand...
I did a 3" one on my numbers slant on the water jacket. I never heard of it before and was ready to scrap it then this old machinist told me about it, around forever was really impressed cant even tell it was done.
 
Thet make them in all sizes contact them or go to thier site. I just free hand drilled mine then over lapped them on the second "row" You need the tapered tap for them so a kit is a good thing, not cheap but it works.
 
That's a high stress area, but at least you don't have oil to worry about. I'm not sure if it's a candidate for pinning. Grinding out the cracks, preheating then welding with high nickel rod, followed by a slow cool. With the head bolt hole there, it would have to be re-tapped. Might be easier to find another flathead.
 
I'd consult a casting / welding Guy who has extensive experience in cast iron. A few should still be out there, remember one in Albuquerque 25 years ago, he finally retired and closed up shop. (C J Castings).

Hemmings Motor News shows some possibilities, including one in your backyard:

1. Casting Salvage Technologies, VA 1-(800)-833-8814
2. "Reeve" NY (315)-655-8812 (company name not listed)
3. Fred's Engine Service PA (610)-383-7674
4. J & M Machine, (508)-460-0733 Southborough, MA
5. S & L Motor Service, (570)-342-9718 Scranton, PA

I remember some "Willys" stuff kicking around the local yard here, some time ago, it was flathead, but they crushed out two years ago. The parts were outside of my time frame of knowledge.
 
Steve welder said:
Do you mean liquid glass epoxy?
Click to expand...
The stuff I'm talking about was sold in hardware stores as egg sealer.

It was added to plane water, no antifreeze. Get the engine hot then drain it. Let it air dry. No epoxy involved that I know of.
 
1) Put white thread sealer on the head bolt & run it.
2) Add a v-groove to the crack & sealer + #1 above.
3) Use the drill&fill stitch method above.
4) Grind the cracks out, weld them up with low-amp Nickel rod, or spray-weld them. Drill & tap it for an insert/Helicoil.
5) If You try a chemical sealer, bypass the heater core, & make sure the rad is fully clear & flowing.
6) Do nothing, clean it up & put it together. (I'm not advocating this) However, this very situation was present on the Olds 455 project I'm working on, We replaced that block, but for another reason. It was running 12.20's at the time, and never leaked a drop, nor lost a head gasket.

Your choice.
 
Jadaharabi said:
The stuff I'm talking about was sold in hardware stores as egg sealer.

It was added to plane water, no antifreeze. Get the engine hot then drain it. Let it air dry. No epoxy involved that I know of.
Click to expand...
Same as Moroso ceramic seal. Red label, Blue label was for use with antifreeze, but not as effective. Used it a few times.
 
Another one that might work is PC-7 after you grind a V into it.

1667736999877.png
 
Ever looked at the deck of a Ford flathead V8? Chances are you will find that exact crack pattern. The flathead fans I know would just shrug and say run it, it won't make a bit of difference.
 
Killer6 said:
Same as Moroso ceramic seal. Red label, Blue label was for use with antifreeze, but not as effective. Used it a few times.
Click to expand...

Will liquid glass fix a cracked block?


Description. The original Liquid Glass Metallic Seal-Up. Seal-Up liquid glass metallic formula will seal cracks permanently. Works excellent on sealing engine blocks, radiators, heater cores and freeze plugs.

I have used K-Seal with great results for Dodge heater core leaks also. Saved me an $800-$1200 repair bill.

Amazon product ASIN B002UJ4WS0
 
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Pic of said Olds, with said crack, circa mid '90's. 12.88 dial at the time, ended up a best of 12.25@110mph, ran until '06 when We pulled it. Lunati cam, C heads I did for it, 9:1.

20210822_124848.jpg
 
Jadaharabi said:
Will liquid glass fix a cracked block?


Description. The original Liquid Glass Metallic Seal-Up. Seal-Up liquid glass metallic formula will seal cracks permanently. Works excellent on sealing engine blocks, radiators, heater cores and freeze plugs.
Click to expand...
Haven't used that specific brand, but sounds like the same product as the red label Moroso stuff,..it works. In order for it to work, the crack has to be actually leaking some to allow the chemicals to penetrate the crack completely, & not familiar with the gasket form there, but if it seeps... it'll seal.
 
It’s a flat head. As mentioned above, they almost all break like that. Use a stud in all the holes that look like that and send it.
 
Plain old ginger from the spice rack will seal it too. Have to replace it each time you change antifreeze.
 
newmexguy said:
I'd consult a casting / welding Guy who has extensive experience in cast iron. A few should still be out there, remember one in Albuquerque 25 years ago, he finally retired and closed up shop. (C J Castings).

Hemmings Motor News shows some possibilities, including one in your backyard:

1. Casting Salvage Technologies, VA 1-(800)-833-8814
2. "Reeve" NY (315)-655-8812 (company name not listed)
3. Fred's Engine Service PA (610)-383-7674
4. J & M Machine, (508)-460-0733 Southborough, MA
5. S & L Motor Service, (570)-342-9718 Scranton, PA

I remember some "Willys" stuff kicking around the local yard here, some time ago, it was flathead, but they crushed out two years ago. The parts were outside of my time frame of knowledge.
Click to expand...
I think that's who re attached an alignment tab to my block back in the 90's. Great work, it was some type of brazing. Found out the hard way the new converter snout was too big
 
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