well, that is probably a way to line up the splines, but it is not the only way. If you stick a board between the studs of an axle(like a lever), with the axle inserted part way (into 1st set of splines) and give the board a sharp whack with a small hand sledge it will move(slip) the 1st set of splines relative to the second set. It doesn't have to move very far, and it doesn't take a lot of hitting. Once you have the splines lined up slide the axle all the way in, and repeat for the other side if they were not aligned properly on reassembly. Of course, it is smarter to line them up to begin with on assembly, but it's not a deal breaker. I couldn't speak to the block issue, because I've never found it necessary to go the "green" bearing conversion route.
Thank you! Im the type of guy that likes to do things the right way. I don't want to grind on my brand new axle shafts or smack them with a hammer to realign the splines. All I wanted was a bit of info on the disassemble and reassemble plus torque specs.
Yep and after reading it over about 4 times I've ordered the gear compound, dial indicator, and inch pound dial wrench so I can take it apart and check everything. The guy that did the rebuild finally got back to me after my tool purchase and said bring it over on Monday. I just build an 8.75 adapter to mount up into my engine stand on break yesterday out of scrap metal too.
well, if you were that "type of guy", you'd buy a Factory Service Manual, and you'd do it yourself, instead of hiring it out to some guy who did it wrong.
I do have the factory service manual but differentials is the only thing that makes me a little nervous working on. The guy that did the rebuild does nearly all the cars that run at the local drag strip and has done 2 of my other rear ends. This is the first I've ever heard of seen a mishap like this from his work.
