Borgenson conversion big block

-
5.7 hemi

5.7 hemi

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Messages
4,305
Reaction score
4,888
Just started taking out the manual box on my 69' Dart GT today. It's a 383 and I thought that taking off the drivers side header was gonna be necessary, but jacking up the engine was the hit ticket.

The manual box came right out and the new Borgenson box dropped in. Lowered the engine and found that tube #3 hits the box and I'm bit confused as TTI says the 1 3/4 headers clear power steering. Now it might also be the QA1 k frame, so I have a couple of options. Heat the tube and use a socket to put a dent it in it or go back to hp manifolds.

Here is some pics.

IMG_0823.JPG


IMG_0824.JPG


IMG_0825.JPG
 
dent the tube for clearance . headers breath way better than hp exhaust manifolds . had them on my 69 dart gt than i install a 383 in . it was just a driver , but it would have run better with headers on it . keep them if you can .

DSC04062.JPG
 
that would suck having to dent expensive headers ,TTI told me they would clear i specifically asked them, I have the same setup going in 1-7/8 with a 400 block should be in by next week ,If mine dont fit they are going back ,I have a brand new Tri Y header from Schumacher as a spare ,I just liked the long tube
 
I have no choice but to dent the tube if I stay with the headers. My buddy has a torch, so heating them up and putting in a clearance dent isn't a problem.
 
Yeah I know. But their headers for the late model Hemi's fit like a glove.
 
correct me if I'm wrong, but the borgeson box is aftermarket, and most likely shaped different than an OEM Mopar box. Expecting TTI headers to fit an aftermarket box, too, is a bit of a stretch, unless they specifically claim to fit that application.
 
Borgenson box is so much smaller than stock box thought you would have room to spare.
 
It's just barely bigger than the manual box.

No worries, some heat and a socket will put a nice clearance dent and I'll move on.
 
shim the box to clear the header...shouldn't take more than a 1/8" inch set on the engine side.
 
I do have (2) 1/8 shims on the drivers side, still hits.
 
Wouldn't shimming the drive side move it closer to the header?
 
Pass. side shimming moves it to the drivers side. I'm adding another shim on the drivers side now.
 
With (3) 1/8 shims on the drivers side.

IMG_0826.JPG
 
Last edited:
Did a bit more adjustment and this is as good as it's gonna get. When I disassemble the car, I'll put a clearance dent in the #3 tube and call it good.

IMG_0827.JPG
 
The aluminum water pump housing has a hole drilled out to big on the top and it's making the power steering pump crooked. So for now, I'll mount the factory housing.

IMG_1457.JPG
 
Ive been selling these boxes since the beginning along my direct fit coupler and hoses. I also have plenty of experience with TTI and helped them make a Boreson specific 5.7 header. TTI has not test fit every combo, however, the QA1 k frame is a huge variable. When I test fit with Mopar Action for the 5.7 hemi, the box location was NOT in the same location as stock.
 
I have a big block, QA1 k frame and Schumacher adapters. There are lots of variables here, but being the box is smaller than a factory power box and TTI says my headers fit with manual or power, that would leave the Borgenson box or the QA1 k frame. Now everything fit just fine with the manual box, so could the Borgenson box be the problem? Perhaps, but I'm gonna do what's needed to make this work. I'm also not saying any one manufacturer is at fault, again, lots of variables at work.
 
can't you sleave that waterpump housing down to your fastener size , for a snug fit ? perhaps just shorties from each end ?
 
The hole is drilled too big and crooked, so a sleeve won't correct it. Unless I did an offset ground sleeve, but I don't have access to that kind of equipment.
 
you could over bore it a bit on a drill press maybe , mill would be the best . i'm surprized that you don't have a small machining equipment at your shop/garage , or have access to some with the mods your doing . does everything just bolt together for you ? i've never had that luck building hotrods . of course i've never been one to do kits , lol . can't fund them , end up buying parts an fabbing the rest . take time .
 
I have tools and equipment but not a Bridgeport. I've tried to shim it using washers and not having any luck.

And no, stuff doesn't always just slap together and I'm pretty good at making stuff fit and work together, but this is fighting me tooth and nail. I'll get it, just takes some time.
 
I didn't want to chance the grinding, but that is also an option.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top