Brake booster recommendation

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Hansen

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Hi, i am looking for a brake booster with brackets on the outside or inside of the firewall. i have a 4 bolt master cylinder and disc brakes front and drum brakes rear. i want to keep the original wiper fluid tank and not have it take up so much space. What booster should i buy? the one i already have needs alot of pushing in the beginning and starts making a hissing sound then it becomes really easy that makes braking sketchy. PS. I have a 1969 dodge dart GT with a 360
 
I got a small one from Cass at Dr. Dif, call to see if he can help
 
Hi, i am looking for a brake booster with brackets on the outside or inside of the firewall. i have a 4 bolt master cylinder and disc brakes front and drum brakes rear. i want to keep the original wiper fluid tank and not have it take up so much space. What booster should i buy? the one i already have needs alot of pushing in the beginning and starts making a hissing sound then it becomes really easy that makes braking sketchy. PS. I have a 1969 dodge dart GT with a 360

An 8 inch booster might do it for you, but make sure you get the dual diaphragm type or your power brakes won't be so power.:D
 
Tb, the one he referred to is dual diaphragm according to the bottom of the listing.
 
Your current hissing booster has a broken control valve. How did it come to be like that?
My 360 has a small cam,and it didn't like the dual diaphragm.

It was something my father had laying around but it had a chunk of metall surrounding the control valve/valverod missing due to shipping handling.. When you say didn't like dual ones, what do you mean? i have street/strip cam comp cams XE274H.
 
That booster needed more vacuum than my engine was making, at low rpm, and the reservoir was too small to maintain the assist thru a long light.
It was fine after 2000 rpm..
My cam was a Hughes HE2430AL, which is 270/276/110 advertised, and smaller than yours.
I took mine apart to see if I could HotRod it , but nope; it was what it was.
To Top it off, I have a manual trans, so most of my braking is done by the 11/1 compression engine at closed throttle.
I only had the one, so maybe I had a dud.
 
That booster needed more vacuum than my engine was making, at low rpm, and the reservoir was too small to maintain the assist thru a long light.
It was fine after 2000 rpm..
My cam was a Hughes HE2430AL, which is 270/276/110 advertised, and smaller than yours.
I took mine apart to see if I could HotRod it , but nope; it was what it was.
To Top it off, I have a manual trans, so most of my braking is done by the 11/1 compression engine at closed throttle.
I only had the one, so maybe I had a dud.

hmm.. Hope it doesn't happen to me as i already bought the thing..
 
IIRC. mine needed over 13 inches idle vacuum. if you have an automatic, then in gear at 700rpm , I dont think that cam of yours is gonna make it.
Like I said; mine mightabin a dud.

But with an auto, as soon as you get the Rs up to where the vacuum starts "charging" the chamber, then you will have power assist. This can be as simple as blipping the throttle a couple of times before you put it into gear. Once moving, and with vacuum over 13 inches, then it will be fine until the next time you are stopped with your foot on the brake. If your stall is low, and idle is pulling, you may find the car begin to creep; no big deal with drum brakes, but with discs it can be annoying. My first step in making it better was the swapping out of the 33/32" bore MC for a 15/16". But in the end, I just got rid of the dual, in favor of a big single off an F-body.
I moved my washer reservoir long before any of this.

For you, time will tell; and it's a lil less of a problem with an automatic. Even less with self-energizing drum brakes.
Best of luck to you.
 
Update: bought a dual diaphragm on ebay with brackets, i have Xe274H cam in a 360, works VERY good. remember to not overtighten the bolt that goes to the brake pedal..
 
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