Brake lights not working?

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Chained_360

Chained_360

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So I have a 1968 Barracuda that after being parked outside for years, was finally moved into a nice, warm, heated garage. One of the first things that I noticed on this vehicle was that after the first few times I hit the brake pedal, the brake lights would remain on even if the pedal was in the resting position. So I unplugged the switch at the pedal. Fast forward five months, the car is now nearly roadworthy and the snow has left the ground. Out goes the Barracuda into the driveway, and after correcting the issues with the brake system, adjusting the brake pedal switch, and plugging it back in, the brake lights now will not turn on at all (I have even tried removing the switch and activating it by hand). I replaced the fuse (even though it was not blown), and I know that the bulbs worked previously. Both turn signals work as well. Help!
 
First I'd jumper around the switch and see what you have and of course check that you actually have power to it
 
67Dart273 is right (as always). The VERY first thing to do is check for power going into the brake light switch. It should always be hot. With the brake pedal up, the other side of the switch will be cold. Then depress the brake pedal and a properly working switch will now cause the other side to be hot. A lot of people do not know that brake lights on these cars (your 68 and my 69) go through the turn signal switch cancelling cam, but since your turn signals work, we can probably eliminate that. If you DO have current flowing through the brake light switch when the brake pedal is depressed, we will have to think about that.
 
The other thing that may have changed over time is corrosion at the grounds in the trunk or hungry mice!.
 
I just finished going through the wiring on my steering column in preparation for a full wire job. Just sorting things out. HOWEVER..it' worth noting that the brake lights run THROUGH the turn signal switch inside your column. The switch doesn't engage it, but it's running through it HOT all the time. The brake pedal switch is what makes it go on/off. It's hard to explain, but after you diagnose the brake pedal switch, I'd start looking at the turn signal switch is you're still having problems. This article touches on it....
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/mopp-0308-mopar-steering-column-rebuild/
 
Getting the "cat whiskers" just right on the signal switch can be tedious at best.....

3
 
mguner said:
Getting the "cat whiskers" just right on the signal switch can be tedious at best.....

3
Click to expand...

Ain't that the truth, I went through two of the 'aftermarket' replacements, before I got my hands on an OEM piece.
 
So I discovered what my problem is, and it seems to exist between the driver's seat and the steering wheel...
Both wires were not hooked up at the same time...
Man, I'm a dumbass
 
Chained_360 said:
So I discovered what my problem is, and it seems to exist between the driver's seat and the steering wheel...
Both wires were not hooked up at the same time...
Man, I'm a dumbass
Click to expand...

Well that happens to the best (and worst) of us!!
 
Chained_360 said:
So I discovered what my problem is, and it seems to exist between the driver's seat and the steering wheel...
Both wires were not hooked up at the same time...
Man, I'm a dumbass
Click to expand...

I promise you I felt mo-dumb after I fabbed up brackets for a console....only to find the hump isn't centered in the car.
It happens😠
 
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