I have a 1971 demon that was manuel brakes switched to a 73 with disc brakes so looking for the master I should go with a 1973 type for disc and rear drums all the masters out there dont come with the rod in it is mine just stuck inside or do they make these old one were you cant take to rod out any help would be great the rod im talking about is the one that bolts to the brake pedal
brake question help
- Thread starter plummkz
- Start date
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grumpuscreature
Resident Curmudgeon
Chuck the rod in a vise and whack the master cylinder with a hammer. It'll come out. Make sure the new master cylinder has a new rubber retainer for reassembly since that is what keeps the rod from falling out when you release the brake pedal.
I believe this will do the trick, just add a disc brake proportioning valve
(how ever you spell the dang thing your lines run to :banghead:
I would let one of many great tec's jump in and double check this, I have
this for my all drum brakes but will not need Prop. Valve for my drums.
Hope someone jumps in here soon , is your MC a 2 or 4 bolt to the fire wall ?
Will this work for him grumpuscreature ?
(how ever you spell the dang thing your lines run to :banghead:
I would let one of many great tec's jump in and double check this, I have
this for my all drum brakes but will not need Prop. Valve for my drums.
Hope someone jumps in here soon , is your MC a 2 or 4 bolt to the fire wall ?
Will this work for him grumpuscreature ?
grumpuscreature
Resident Curmudgeon
I like a master for a '74 Charger with manual disc brakes. Has a nice pedal without the "standing on a rock" feel. Bolts right up. Or you can go with the master for a '73 up A body with manual disc brakes. Either one will work. Power brake masters do not have the retaining groove for manual pushrods.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Most people like a 7/8"D bore MC for manual disks. I don't know the groove in the MC piston is essential. Is there any way the rod could pop out? As you found, they like to stay married to the piston. Next time, use the pedal to help you. Remove the brake switch so you don't bust it and pull up on the pedal real hard to pop the rod out. People say that works well.
You will need a proportioning valve with a disk-drum combination. An adjustable one is just $25 on ebay. If you will use your distribution/switch block, you must install it downstream on the rear brake line. I don't think you need a residual valve today.
You will need a proportioning valve with a disk-drum combination. An adjustable one is just $25 on ebay. If you will use your distribution/switch block, you must install it downstream on the rear brake line. I don't think you need a residual valve today.
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