Brake warning light question

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skep419

5.9 Magnum 4 speed afficionado
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I have a 1969 dart. Looking at the wiring diagram I don't have a parking brake switch or a low brake warning switch. If I hook my denso alternator lamp wire to the W connector it should turn the light on when the alternator is not charging? Anybody know if the other dark blue with tracer wire is keyed power? Thanks.
 
You mean your car doesn't have the brake switch wired up? Yes you could use that as a warning lamp for the alternator, the warning lamp should already have switched power wired to the lamp. It's an insulated, two-wire socket
 
The switch is down on the drivers frame down low, Should be just one wire running to it. Where all the brake tubes come together
 
Im trying to use as much of the factory wires as possible. I have the msd box, alternator (needs 2 keyed power), Ford Taurus fan keyed power relay, all on the engine bay side. Volt gauge, heater block off solenoid, heater keyed power relay (aftermarket heater) on the inside of the car, gauge lights (plan on using the orange wire from the radio connector so they dim with the headlight switch).

Don't think any of these items will draw a ton of juice.

I am not using the violet temp gauge wire.
I don't have a reverse light although it would be cool to use the oil light for reverse light
Windshield washer motor is available
B and A spots are not being used but have wires on the inside.

On the inside of the car I'm not using the radio.
None of the heater wires
There is a black wire with white tracer that comes out by the ignition switch (looks to be for the reverse gear indicator?)

I have mounted a 4 slot fuse block next to the bulkhead that goes through the firewall. ( on the inside of the car). If I can't find wires to tap into in the factory harness the plan is to use it.
 
Thanks for the help. I found the valve on my parts car. so now I'm going to be swapping out some brake lines. Since the brake warning light is now going to be used in thinking the oil warning light will work for the alternator warning light.

I could also tap the reverse light wire into the alternator warning light too.
1455982668_zps9x0whnes.jpg
 
Found the parking brake switch on the parts car as well.
1455988094_zpsyp6nfsdf.jpg
 
You could use the oil light for alternator, but using for a reverse light is more of a trick. This might require a relay. For me, not worth the trouble.

The original reverse light has one wire and a grounded socket

Both the brake and oil lamps have power to one side and a grounding wire which goes to the oil / brake switches.
 
Ok so here's my plan. The alternator sense wire is going to the k connector(oil pressure switch) along with the alternator lamp wire.

Going to use R violet temp gauge wire for he msd keyed power.

Line lock will use A than go to the switch on the shifter. From the shifter I should be able to use the radio connector for keyed power.

That still leaves the fan relay (not sure how much power it takes to power up a relay. If possible I could use the same source as the msd box) and the heater (needs a relay powered up and a block off solenoid powered up with the key).
 
You could use the oil light for alternator, but using for a reverse light is more of a trick. This might require a relay. For me, not worth the trouble.

The original reverse light has one wire and a grounded socket

Both the brake and oil lamps have power to one side and a grounding wire which goes to the oil / brake switches.

Ah. I see. The reverse light wires are are hot when engaged. So it would be easier to just add a bulb somewhere. Thanks.
 
Glad I'm making a diagram before doing the wiring. Forgot about the blue and brown ignition wires. Connecting the two together for the msd. That leaves the r temp switch wire for the fan relay. The k oil pressure wire for the alternator sense/lamp.

Line lock is going connector A. After that I need to figure out the keyed power on the inside of the car.

The heater has a relay. I was thinking I could add a fuse block to it. (Less likely to overload the heater circuit).
 
1456084836_zps65njjid6.jpg


Thinking I should wait until the engine and transmission are in to install the line lock. Not exactly sure if the z-bar will interfere.
 
Going to use R violet temp gauge wire for he msd keyed power. .

Don't understand some of the changes you are making. What will you use for a temp gauge wire?

I see no need for a special wire for the MSD. Originally the brown IGN2--resistor bypass and blue IGN1 -- ignition run

both came out the bulkhead. If you are concerned about voltage drop, eg, fire a relay off them, tied together, and use the relay output to power whatever you need under the hood, like the regulator

For the MSD, the trigger wire (small red) can tie into that as well. It needs very little power as it's only a trigger, like a relay

Also, do you really need / want an alternator warning, or are you just trying to wire up the exciter circuit? If the latter, you don't need a lamp, just use a series diode to isolate it, and hook to "ign run"
 
Don't understand some of the changes you are making. What will you use for a temp gauge wire?

I am using a mechanical temp gauge mounted under the dash

I see no need for a special wire for the MSD. Originally the brown IGN2--resistor bypass and blue IGN1 -- ignition run

both came out the bulkhead. If you are concerned about voltage drop, eg, fire a relay off them, tied together, and use the relay output to power whatever you need under the hood, like the regulator



For the MSD, the trigger wire (small red) can tie into that as well. It needs very little power as it's only a trigger, like a relay

Also, do you really need / want an alternator warning, or are you just trying to wire up the exciter circuit? If the latter, you don't need a lamp, just use a series diode to isolate it, and hook to "ign run"

I like the idea of having the ign 1 and 2 tied together and using a relay. but if everything that needs key power isn't drawing hardly any juice. It doesn't really seem necessary.

I want the light because it's an option on the alternator and I'm not using the temp sender.
 
67Dart273 you twisted my arm hahaha. I am now going to be installing both senders so the temp gauge will work and the oil dummy light will work. my plan is to run a 1/8 street elbow for the oil pressure gauge and sender.
 
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