Brake Whoas

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jim

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Heres a good one for someone. I have a 67 A body with power disc brakes. My problem is when stopping the car everything is good till half way down on the pedal. At that point is like the pedal gets rock hard. The car still stops but not real fast. You can not side the tires. Check pedal linkage,changed the master cylinder with no improvement??????
 
Check for leaks. Clean the rotors and replace the pads. Make sure the vacuum line and the connections are good to the booster.
 
i have/had similar issues on my brakes after disc brake swap (SSBC), half ok rest hard.

mine went mostly away after proper wear to discs.
brake pedal is not so easy to press than in new cars but i can easily lock tires and i have grippy tires so its fast stop :)

Booster works i have check it and it holds vacuum.

ofcourse if you have propotional valve (drums on back) you have to adjust that correctly, and measure how much vacuum your engine makes, mine is almost stock 318 so it makes plenty.
 
A stuck caliper piston or a stuck wheel cylinder will do exactly what you describe!
As the rest of your brakes system moves,when they get to the point of the stuck piston or cylinder, it will be almost impossible to press any farther down on the pedal!

Not saying this is what is happening to you, but it is worth looking into if other solutions don't solve your problem.

cudamike13
 
A stuck caliper piston or a stuck wheel cylinder will do exactly what you describe!

Disagree. A stuck piston should cause "other" tires to lock or pull

This sounds to me like a booster related problem.
 
Hard pedal, is a booster problem, as others already have been telling you.
 
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How much vacuum does your engine make at idle.
Power brakes don't like big cams.
 
Air in the fronts with blocked fluid to the rear from a prop valve will act like that also.
 
By the vacuum gauge it seenms to have good vacuum. Is there a different model booster that may work better ? Thanks for you guys sharing yall's knowledge
 
I had this very same problem. The vacuum booster in my car tested just fine in that I had no vacuum leaks and could measure ample vacuum with a gauge.

The problem was that the piston that pushes from the vacuum booster into the master cylinder was adjusted too far out. That is, the overall piston length was too long. If this happens, the piston always maintains pressure on the master cylinder with too little reserve at rest. You can think of it as a sort of unwanted pre-charge. When the the pedal is pushed halfway and there's no force left on the brakes it's because there was too little fluid to push.

Why? Unless the piston could recess far enough back into the booster at rest, the master cylinder could never draw in as much fluid as it needed from the reservoir. It's always deficient. Hopefully your vacuum booster has an adjustable piston. Use a caliper to measure the depth of the master cylinder bore. It should be about an inch, but you need an accurate measure. Then adjust the vacuum booster piston to (probably shorten) the same length, minus maybe another 1/8" or 3/16" for free play. You need to make sure that at rest, there is no pressure at all on the master cylinder. But you also don't want slop because you'll lose pedal travel. That might take a little trial and error.

When I performed this operation it solved the problem perfectly. To be honest, I never really thought much about this adjustment until it was too late.

One other thing: as long as you're in there, make sure your vacuum booster check valve is working.

-marcus
 
Do you have stock KH disk brakes, or later model transplant? I had the same pedal feel with manual four piston KH disks before rebuild. Light braking they worked OK or so it seemed, but under hard braking, hard as a rock, and long stopping distance. Several of the pistons were stuck in each caliper.

Check for uneven wear of pads such that thinner on one end compared to other end of pad, a sign of stuck pistons.
 
I think I found my problem. I pulled the booster apart and found a small split in the acordion rubber boot . When the boot streaches the split opens up and lets the vacuum escape. The problem now is trying to find a rebuilt on. Cardone is the vendor for all the local name parts houses and they have none in stock. Does anyone know where to get a rebuild kit or a rebuilt one? Acually this is a 73 Dart booster.
 
I think I found my problem. I pulled the booster apart and found a small split in the acordion rubber boot . When the boot streaches the split opens up and lets the vacuum escape. The problem now is trying to find a rebuilt on. Cardone is the vendor for all the local name parts houses and they have none in stock. Does anyone know where to get a rebuild kit or a rebuilt one? Acually this is a 73 Dart booster.

WOOT! All that time I spent getting 43 I-Car certifications pays off again.

Glad you found it.
 
Try booster Dewey here in Oregon.
http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com/



I think I found my problem. I pulled the booster apart and found a small split in the acordion rubber boot . When the boot streaches the split opens up and lets the vacuum escape. The problem now is trying to find a rebuilt on. Cardone is the vendor for all the local name parts houses and they have none in stock. Does anyone know where to get a rebuild kit or a rebuilt one? Acually this is a 73 Dart booster.
 
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