break-in oil?

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1mean7Ddart

1mean7Ddart

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OIL!!!! im a bit on the confused side.... what oil would I use to break in my new 360 with flat cam? my buddy told me to use desal oil. some older dude said regular 10W30 oil with comp cam Engine Break-In Additive. and boy was this funny the guy at the auto parts store told me to use trans fluid (WTF!!!) can any one here tell me the best way to go!
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I have been told to use Shell Rotella T 15w40 oil, so I guess your first buddy may be on the right track.
I have been told to use this oil by a couple of race proven engine builders from 2 different shops.....so I'm thinkin' that this will be the oil I use for my engine break in
 
1mean7Ddart said:
this funny the guy at the auto parts store told me to use trans fluid (WTF!!!) can any one here tell me the best way to go!
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I have heard that one before. I use it on my engines that have alot of miles before an oil change. I dump a quart in let it warm up, drain it and do the filter and oil. An old school guy years ago told me about it. Cleans the inside of the engine very well.............and no I aint lyinnnnnnnnnnnn

So the guy at the auto parts store I do not think is that KRAZZZZZIEEE!!

My opinion of course

I used Deisel oil called Delo on my last break in. Worked great with flat tappet cam.
 
I'm gonna use 5 qts castrol gtx w/1 qt stp and 1 quart schaeffers supreme 7000 for flat tappet engines.
I run a 8 qt pan.

weak springs for cam break in work well too.

Most of my engine break ins were done with non detergent napa oil or VR1 no problems.
 
Any oil that contains zinc ,{not many left} like valvoline VR1 racing oil.It states right on the bottle that it contains zinc. Also advance auto parts sells an additive by Lucas that is specifically for break in,especially for flat tappet cams and is "zinc rich" The zinc helps the cam break in during the critical first minutes of initial start up . . . . hope that helps.
 
I like to use 15-40,just make sure you coat the cam lobes with plenty of the lube they give you...
 
I've always used 10w30, and recently whatever supplement the cam manufacturer recommends (Comp last time, worked fine). I switch to an ACEA A3 rated synthetic once the rings seat.
 
yellow68runner said:
Any oil that contains zinc ,{not many left} like valvoline VR1 racing oil.It states right on the bottle that it contains zinc. Also advance auto parts sells an additive by Lucas that is specifically for break in,especially for flat tappet cams and is "zinc rich" The zinc helps the cam break in during the critical first minutes of initial start up . . . . hope that helps.
Click to expand...
I agree zinc is the key to making any flat tappet cam survive a break-in, also as stated above make sure your only using the outer valve spring for the break in..
 
Rotella used to be very good,however it has changed,and now contains less Zinc.

I use Comp Cams break in additive,with a good oil.

Hughes,Brad Penn,Royal Purpel all make very good break in oil.
 
I bet we have zillions of posts on this, lol. I made the mistake of breaking in a flat tappet engine with Valvoline VR1 but it wasn't the racing VR1. I lost a cam lobe and two days labor. Bad Idea.

Next time around I used Valvoline VR1 Racing oil and the Hughes additive from Hughes Engines and had no problem. Once it was broken in I used plain Valvoline with no detrimental effects.

Yes, the diesel oils are losing their zinc phospate and sulfur additives although the old stuff can be found here in there in stock.
 
Diesel oils have lost there zinc content due to EPA,your new diesel trucks run standard heavy duty oil which contains no zinc,for the fact they have cat,converters and can not take the content as with all the newer cars have been for years.You can use conventional motor oil as long as you have the proper additive,Hughes makes one as well as Comp Cams,there are some motor oils out there you can still run straight and be fine.I run the Brad Penn
oils and still add some Comp additive,if available,the Brad Penn cost me the same here as conventional oils through my distributors.
 
I'm getting ready to do a new 273 with a flat cam also. I have been using Royal Purple for my Harley and cars for several years since I blew a Harley on Mobil 1 and they wouldn't stand by their product. Wanting to make sure I was on the right track, I e-mailed Royal Purple and they told me to use their break in oil and after that to use either their 10W40 or 15W40 as they still have high levels of zinc.
According to the e-mail, there was no reason to use more zinc additive.
I bought a case of 12 on line for about $90.00 delivered. There are instructions right on the bottle.
 
The 287 takes the 995 dual spring assemblies... So in order to have the cam break in go well, you should only have the outer springs installed on the heads, and you will want to run a good performance oil for the break in. I use the VR1 offroad. It has s ton of zink in it. I would run it for the break in, then for the first oil change after the break in after you install the inner springs. Then dump it after about 500 miles and run whatever you want for a 15/40 or 20/50.
 
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