broke in the new engine- but need help

-
S

stroker mike

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
336
Reaction score
0
Location
San Jose, CA
I broke in the new engine today, there were a few challenges gettin it all sewed up and running but I got it! It runs good. Pulls hard! For a 318 it will suprise the crap out of you..
So here's the question: How do you get the last two header bolts on the driver side tight enough? I got an exhaust leak on that side. I plugged the air injection holes with 1/4" pipe plugs, I hope they held well enough, they should have, but I have a definite leak, and I tried every thing to get those bolts tight enough. Can anyone help me? I was doing an eighth of a turn till I couldn't lock on the bolt any more, but they just aint tight enough, it's embarassing! These hands just don't fit in there very well, and I tried long wrenches, short wrenches, ratchets, straight arms, even tried a distributor wrench but it wouldn't work. Please, someone clue me in! Hooker 5901's have got to be some of the most common headers around, how do you all do it? My hedmans had more clearance, but they were flat as can be on the bottom, so I tried these hookers. Any one who knows the secret please tell me! Thanks, guys.
 
Are they the little 8mm 12 point bolts you're using?
I have no problem getting to those with a tiny 12 point 8mm wrench that being the case.

I think 8mm is what I have....what's in the way? The firewall? The tube? Both?
 
The tubes! And the firewall at the back, and the steering box on the side, there just aint no way to get in there. Twelve point? I'm gonna try it. I have regular hex bolts on it now. That must be the reason. Do you have extra long ones for the outermost holes on each end? Cause I had water sizzling out the front one and I pulled the bolt and rtv'd it and it seems to have stopped but I wonder if it needs a longer bolt since it used to have studs in there. Now it doesn't, they were this way when I bought em. Should I have put studs in?
 
stroker mike said:
The tubes! And the firewall at the back, and the steering box on the side, there just aint no way to get in there. Twelve point? I'm gonna try it. I have regular hex bolts on it now. That must be the reason. Do you have extra long ones for the outermost holes on each end? Cause I had water sizzling out the front one and I pulled the bolt and rtv'd it and it seems to have stopped but I wonder if it needs a longer bolt since it used to have studs in there. Now it doesn't, they were this way when I bought em. Should I have put studs in?
Click to expand...

yeah, I use the little mopar header bolts with the 8mm 12 point head on them. A hex head inn that situation is a losing battle, especially on headers where it will be habitual to retorque them. Youll pull hair out every time.

the 12 point bolts make life a lot easier because even though it may take 20 small turns with a wrench, you'll eventually get it done.
 
Also, with headers especially, you want to torque from the middle tubes out. Especially if they are a solid flange for all 4 ports.
 
stroker mike said:
Thanks a million, man, I'm on it. Do you rtv the end bolts?
Click to expand...

I have never used any sealant on the end bolts.
I dont know if there is a difference in water jacket design between magnum heads and LA, but I've even pulled the bolts out, or sometimes fouind them missing after being a fool and not checking them. No water leaks.

Water leaking out of exhaust bolt holes is kind of new to me.
Maybe it's just an LA head thing.
 
Lol,just forget to seal the la's bolts up once,and it's an experiece you'll not likely forget...
 
12 point bolt will be the way i go next time but! I had a similer problem and i took the bolt to the grinder and made the washer, that is prt of the bolt.........the bolt.

This way you can get at them bolts at much grater angles, with a open end wrench.

Hope that made sense
 
Cause I had water sizzling out the front one and I pulled the bolt and rtv'd it and it seems to have stopped but I wonder if it needs a longer bolt since it used to have studs in there. Now it doesn't, they were this way when I bought em. Should I have put studs in?


That's why LA heads have studs in the outside holes, water jackets. You might get by with the rtv but, I would use teflon tape. The smaller 12 point bolts are the way to go.
 
ssduster360 said:
Cause I had water sizzling out the front one and I pulled the bolt and rtv'd it and it seems to have stopped but I wonder if it needs a longer bolt since it used to have studs in there. Now it doesn't, they were this way when I bought em. Should I have put studs in?


That's why LA heads have studs in the outside holes, water jackets. You might get by with the rtv but, I would use teflon tape. The smaller 12 point bolts are the way to go.
Click to expand...

Teflon paste is good for that.
 
When I had the stock 340 in my car I would seal up the end bolts with Permatex High Temp RTV in the gold tube. It was heat resistent and held up well.
 
I use an angle wrench to get the last 2 bolts tight. Mine are Snap-on but you can get them in most any name brand (except craftsman). You can even get cheap ones from Harbor freight but you get what you pay for.
 
Angle wrench? what do you mean? an offset open end? a wobbler open end? I don't have any of those, actually, but I'll buy one if I have to, I want it sealed tight.
 
stroker mike said:
Angle wrench? what do you mean? an offset open end? a wobbler open end? I don't have any of those, actually, but I'll buy one if I have to, I want it sealed tight.
Click to expand...

Yeah they are open ends but are at a different angle than the normal wrench. If I remember right a standard combination wrench open end is 30 degrees. These have one end that's 15 degrees and the other is 45 degrees. You can get in just about anywhere with them.

Here's a link to Snap-on's offering's

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...3&group_ID=560&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Of course Snap-on is super expensive. I believe you can get a good set of S-K for under $100.
 
I have a set of the snap-on wrenches too. They where pretty much required when I worked on hydraulic equipment like forklifts and they are perfect for tight header installs. The snap-on ones are great because the wrench heads are smaller than others I have come across.
 
camd64 said:
I have a set of the snap-on wrenches too. They where pretty much required when I worked on hydraulic equipment like forklifts and they are perfect for tight header installs. The snap-on ones are great because the wrench heads are smaller than others I have come across.
Click to expand...

That's the same reason I had them. Forklifts have so many in-accessible places their a requirement. I love them.
 
While I have the headers loose I was thinking about packing JBweld around the pipe plugs to really seal them, do you think JBweld can take really high temps?
 
If your headers are leaking buy a set of those aluminum header gaskets. They work great. My headers would leak even with double gaskets. They don't leak at all now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top