broken exhaust studs

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beebeeri000

beebeeri000

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so on my new /6 the studs that connect the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe sheared, what should i do to to not have a major exhaust leak? also i got one of the long bolts that clamp the intake and exhaust manifold together but one came out fine and i dont know what to do with that either. any suggestions?
 
As far as the exhaust manifold to pipe studs, I had to take both of those studs out and replace them with bolts [grade 8]. You can get them out. Bolts will work just fine, i've been using them for years with no leaks.

With the 3 bolts that connect the intake and exhaust manifold together, those are probably rusted pretty good if they've never been removed before. I'd carefully get them all out, soak them with penetrating oil. Once removed chase the threads with a tap. The 2 outside ear bolts should be pretty easy to find. The long bolt, or stud, that goes on the side closest to the ports can be harder to find for the exact length. I just got a piece of threaded rod and used it, cut to length.

If any of the 3 bolts that connect the intake to exhaust break don't panic. Just get it out (left hand drills, easy-out, etc). The single bolt closest to the ports can be drilled and taped oversize on the exhaust manifold, that's what I had to do. Even easier, the 2 ear bolts can just be drilled out on the exhaust manifold if needed. Just put a nut below the ears instead. You might need to drill out the intake holes a little for clearance, but doubtful.

Grade 8 hardware would be a good choice for replacement.
 
did you just drill out the studs? im thinking about drilling a hole in each but keaving a little bit of the studs to use as like locator pins and then a flag nut and washer on each if i can find flag nuts by me
 
The manifold to pipe studs ought to be drilled out and new bolts put in as said above. Buy some BRASS nuts and hardened SAE washers to go with the grade 8 bolts and they will be sooooo much easier to remove in the future. Brass nuts don't corrode to steel bolts, and the SAE washers are less wide and fit better.

The holes where the long inter-manifold bolts went need to be carefully drilled out (carefully so that the centers stay where they were) and heli-coils installed. The ones that break off are so corroded in place that there typically can't extract anything.
 
I'm just about to start fixing the same thing, although I only have 1 stud (so far) that I'm going to have to drill out. One question I have is where do I find the brass washers for securing the manifolds to the head. I'm replacing all the studs (including the ones in the head) and all the hardware. Sorry don't mean to hijack, but thought it was an appropriate spot for the question.
 
on my 1964 dart slant 6 of course. it had a bolt from ext manifold to pipe. so i put a 3/8 bolt in. it kept getting loose. i figured out the bolt from the factory a 7/16. it stayed tight then. and i like to use anti-size compound on ALL bolts on ext , and the under side. i dont think grade 8 is really needed. cause if the threads strip you loose the threads in the manifold, not the bolt. if only the bolt strips you still have the threads in the manifold. this bring me the big Q i always ask. how did the factory do it? iam not saying they never goofed up. but a lot of they did was done right.
 
yep. but not just any air wrench. one with a torque setting preset by the tooling department.
 
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