Budget Friendly Build

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Bad Sport

Bad Sport

HALF A BUBBLE OFF
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I’ve been piecing things together for my, “as budget friendly”, as possible build.

Here’s what I’m thinking.


360 block, standard bore, hot tanked and magna fluxed, cylinders honed to clean them up.

Stock rods, resized, shot peened and ARP bolts. Mains checked for alignment.

Speed Pro pistons, H116Cp Flat tops w/ valve reliefs.
Crower hydraulic cam.

Lift 0.507/0.520, duration @ 0.050 lift 224*/234*, ground on a 108* lobe center, Power band is 2700 – 6500. Matching springs, locks and retainers.

LD340 intake.

750 cfm ??? carb.

Cloyes true double roller w/tensioner.

Stock distributor recurved.

MSD ignition (undecided on which one)

Went with J heads with a complete valve job, mild porting 2.02/1.60.

1 3/4 “ headers.





Any thoughts, will it work? :-D
 
That's one of Crowers level 5 cams.
I think a level 3-4 one from them like the 31243 would be better suited.
This is a dart sport with 3:55 gears used for street and strip with power brakes ?
 
Mo-Par said:
That's one of Crowers level 5 cams.
I think a level 3-4 one from them like the 31243 would be better suited.
This is a dart sport with 3:55 gears used for street and strip with power brakes ?
Click to expand...

Yup, right now. Power brakes will be going away and I have another 489 case I'm going to build with steeper gears.
 
Sounds alright to me, as long as you get a looser converter.
I'd port match the intake,too.
Power brakes, as mentioned?
I'd think mid 13's no sweat, and with a little suspension dialing and 4.10's,into the 12's easy.
 
71beater said:
Sounds alright to me, as long as you get a looser converter.
I'd port match the intake,too.
Power brakes, as mentioned?
I'd think mid 13's no sweat, and with a little suspension dialing and 4.10's,into the 12's easy.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm hoping for.

Converter would be built to match the combo.
 
I'd like to chime in here! I'm not a Small Block expert........come to think about it, I'm not an expart on anything!!! That being said it looks like you are taking a common sense approach.

The reason this caught my attension is about a year ago a younger guy called me to tell me his younger brother just bought an early 70s 318/Duster. (There Dad had a 340 Duster back in the day that was HOT!) The main reason he called me is because he's friends with my nephew and there Chubby guys and I'm Chrysler.
He wanted my opinion on go fast engines and I tried telling him to find a good rebuildable 360 and with good hot rod basics (Cam,Carb,Intake,Headers,Convertor and Gears ) his 16 year old brotherand friends will be amazed. Keep It Simple!!!!!!!!
He took my advise and spent 6 grand on a stroker that Summit sells and has had nothing but problems from what I've heard. This is not a chevy........you don't need girdles, brazeers and panty hoses to make a Mopar run!!!

Sorry for the long rant. Your low buck,common sence approach just caught my eye and once again reinforces that Mopars respond better then most to basic Hot Rod mods.

And those who don't get that are driving everything else.
 
straightaxle65 said:
he took my advise and spent 6 grand on a stroker that summit sells and has had nothing but problems from what i've heard. This is not a chevy........you don't need girdles, braziers and panty hoses to make a mopar run!!!
Click to expand...


lol
 
Mo-Par said:
That's one of Crowers level 5 cams.
I think a level 3-4 one from them like the 31243 would be better suited.
This is a dart sport with 3:55 gears used for street and strip with power brakes ?
Click to expand...

Bruce,that cam ,is a generic low dollar copy.Spend 20 bones more,look at a Crower "Ultra Beast",grind number 31916. 269/282 advertised,223/234 @ .050,..480/.494 lift on a 1.5 stock ratio.112 lobe centers.If your actual compression around 9:0 to 1,idles slightly rougher than a 340 cam. With some bowl ported heads,goes crazy. Simply a better cam ,seen four of these cams run,2 on my own part. Sorry about the post length....
 
Sounds like a nice street build you have planned. I am thinking of doing something similar with a 4 speed, 3,23 gears, small solid lifter cam, aluminum Eddy heads with some mild port work and a good valve job.
 
Depends on how you intend to use the car. For street, this sounds too aggressive. Need slightly less cam and a max 3.55:1 for the street. Carb in the 625-650 cfm for street (throttle response). If strip, then the steeper gear, bigger carb route will work.

It is seductive how easy it is to add power to one of these blocks. The drawback is that it bumps the power up the rpm band and it tends to dry up the low end.

If this is to be a strip car, ignore me. If, on the other hand, it is to be a street car, hear me out. Suggest you pay attention to how you drive via a tachometer with the rear gear you intend to live with. If you find that you're wanting to mat the pedal at 2500 rpm to dispatch a mongrel, use this as the bottom of your power band. Adjust more or less depending on where the urge to get rid of lesser rides hits you. :glasses7:
 
This cam, runs HARD with 3:55's,on the street.(Actual experence,on the streets.) The limiting fact
,is tuning.....
 
If you are going to buy pistons. I'd think I'd pay to bore and hone the cylinders to get best ring seal. Bore and hone really doesn't cost that much. If you were going to pay someone to hone it, I'd really have it bored. Not much more at that point.
 
I just bought the Fel Pro master gasket set for my 360, I know there are better or should I say thinner head gaskets to bump the compression a tad bit.

Can someone throw me a part number for the thinner gaskets?
 
Sealant is not necessary with that gasket. I think the Fel Pro blues are around .040" give or take.
 
OK, a little update:


360 block, standard bore, hot tanked and magna fluxed, cylinders honed to clean them up.

It will also be gone through to smooth out and casting edges, oil return holes etc. I will be coating the valley with Glyptal paint as well as the inside of the oil pan for smoother oil return. Standard volume oil pump, oil pan baffle.

Stock rods, resized, shot peened and ARP bolts. Mains checked for alignment.

Speed Pro pistons, H116Cp Flat tops w/ valve reliefs.

Ultradyne Solid cam.

NF/51 NF/55 Solid.
.255/.263 @ .050
568/590 lift
.016 Lash

Crane Gold roller rockers

LD340 intake.

750 cfm ??? carb.

Cloyes true double roller w/tensioner.

Stock distributor recurved.

MSD box

J heads with a complete valve job, mild porting 2.02/1.60 milled to 65cc chambers

1 3/4 “ headers.

_____________________


Is there any advantage/dis-advantage on running full floating rods? I have both floating and press fit.

In addition to the build I'm thinking beefed up 904 with full manual valve body, 4.56 gear and a converter in the 3200 to 3500 stall range.
_____________________

I know there's tons more I can do, but I'm trying my darnedest to come in under 3000.00 for parts, labor and other necessities for engine alone, which at this point I think I am well under, including the purchase of the engine.
 
Pretty nasty cam dude. That oughtta sound gnarly.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Pretty nasty cam dude. That oughtta sound gnarly.
Click to expand...


Yeah, that's what Richard said yesterday when I spoke with him at Bullet/Ultradyne. He said it should work very well as long as I gear for it and get a good converter.

In fact, he said I best be hangin' on, lmao.

He also said he can "freshen" the cam without losing any specs for a very reasonable amount. I may do that, and when he ships it back he can send the lifters, springs, retainers and locks. A one stop shop..

Whatchoo think about the floating rods vs press pin, any advantages/disadvantages?
 
Nice cam choice/converter & gear setup, Bruce. Peaking somewhere ,in the mid 6000's.
 
Floating rods are nice for assembly and disassembly. IMO they free up a small amount of torque but not enough to see on the butt dyno. Certainly not enough to warrant the extra expense.
 
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