Buffing Streaks

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straightlinespeed

straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
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What is the best way to remove the streaks left over after buffing? You know the streaks you cant see until you get it in the sun and then the car waves at you as you glance down the side of it.

Will a simple waxing take care of it?
 
what color? Swirl marks are small scratches. You might need to use a finishing compound w/ the proper pad. Cut and buffing is a time consuming process to do properly.
 
Rocky_JS said:
what color? Swirl marks are small scratches. You might need to use a finishing compound w/ the proper pad. Cut and buffing is a time consuming process to do properly.
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Plum Crazy Purple. They may be swirl marks, but they are vertical lines where I was doing it in sections. I started buffing with a wool pad and a cutting compound, then used a high quality finishing compound with a foam pad and spent a entire weekend doing it.
 
saw on Rick's restoration to use talcum powder or corn starch. He used talcum powder with a buffer and seemed to work.
 
straightlinespeed said:
Plum Crazy Purple. They may be swirl marks, but they are vertical lines where I was doing it in sections. I started buffing with a wool pad and a cutting compound, then used a high quality finishing compound with a foam pad and spent a entire weekend doing it.
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After all that is done well, it helps to use a a softer (less aggressive) foam pad. Most systems have 2 foams, one for initial, one for finish. Pad could also have too much compound on it causing excessive heat.

Give it a final with a random orbital with the finish compound. so any remaining stuff will not be so linear.

Wax will reduce appearance of the marks, because as someone already mentioned swirls are scratches, but will return after washing/rain.
 
I think this weekend I will be spending more time buffing LOL. So how dry do you let the finishing compound get, before you stop with the buffer?
 
The correct way to fix swirl marls is to use the correct products from the beginning. Swirls marls are from to aggressive of a compound and/or pad and not keeping it flat. Heavy cut compounds and wool pads cut fast but leave the paint hazy. Its just like sanding. If you start with 80 grit (heavy compound and a wool pad) you can finish it with 600 grit and expect it to look good (Glaze and a blue pad)

The best thing you can do to improve your results is replace you buffer if your using an rotary. They were developed for grinding, not for polishing paint. Professional detailing buffers are dual action. I use a Rupes but they arent cheap at $400. Porter Cable makes a much cheaper D/A that is easy to use and still does a good job.

Also, buy your self some foam pads. Lake Country are the most popular. Get an assortment Yellow, Orange, White and Blue. Or you can order a Hex Logic kit from Chemical Guys.

For compound and polishes I use Meguiars. 105 and 205 are very common in most high end detail shops. I also like the D300 which is designed for microfiber pads.

In your case I would seeing the car is already compounded I would start with an orange pad and the 205, then follow that up with a white pad and the 205. The idea is to get the paint as nice as possible before wax. Wax shouldnt be used to hide anything. I actually no longer use waxes in my shop, Everything is sealants.

Heres a good kit to get you started
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meguiars-Po...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4845d210df&vxp=mtr
 
straightlinespeed said:
I think this weekend I will be spending more time buffing LOL. So how dry do you let the finishing compound get, before you stop with the buffer?
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what products are you using ? My guess is, Dewalt buffer, wool pad, 3M fines it ?
 
AdamR said:
what products are you using ? My guess is, Dewalt buffer, wool pad, 3M fines it ?
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Actually it looks like a old Black and Decker Buffer (sander/polisher). Wool pad, with Meguiars Diamond cut 2.0 for the initial. Then switched to the foam pad and used 3M Perfect-It 1200 grit rubbing compound in a purple bottle.
 
You used 2 compounds. You need to use polish now.
 

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Meguiar's 205 is what I use for polish. I would start with an orange pad and then finish with a white pad. Then wipe the car down with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water and wax it with your wax of choice.
 
I use the GRINDER still been using it for for 30+ years, after wet sand i use 3M white with a woolly and finish with blue and a foam pad, I don't like the DA'S not enough heat but they are great for feather edging !!
 

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66 Dartman said:
I don't like the DA'S not enough heat but they are great for feather edging !!
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Your not trying the right D/A the Rupes have more then enough power.
http://www.rupes.com/p/dk/en/buffer

I havent touched my Dewalt in 2 years. I would still use it if I were buffing after wet sanding fresh paint but I would never finish with it. I also cant stand 8" pads though. I prefer 5.5" foam.
 
Ive never heard of the corn starch trick so I looked it up. From what I read the idea is that the swirls are caused by dead paint sticking to the pad marring the finish. By buffing with the corn starch it dissolves the old pant keeping the pad clean. It seems to me if you keep the pad clean that would solve the issue. If your using wool, blow it out with compressed air while spinning the pad. But more importantly, change the pad when it gets loaded up.

The fact still is the the swirls are from the aggressive compound and pad selection. It needs to be polished out.
 
adamr said:
ive never heard of the corn starch trick so i looked it up. From what i read the idea is that the swirls are caused by dead paint sticking to the pad marring the finish. By buffing with the corn starch it dissolves the old pant keeping the pad clean. It seems to me if you keep the pad clean that would solve the issue. If your using wool, blow it out with compressed air while spinning the pad. But more importantly, change the pad when it gets loaded up.

The fact still is the the swirls are from the aggressive compound and pad selection. It needs to be polished out.
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agreed!!
 
i bought a meguiars kit similar to this back in may. man did ti bring the paint up on my mustang. can't wait to do the daily drivers with it.. super easy to use. practically idiot proof..

mine came with:

the bag
da machine
3 foam pads
1 bottle of ultimate compound
1 bottle of ultimate polish
1 bottle of ultimate wax
1 bottle of ultimate quick detailer
3 micro fiber towels.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meguiars-G1...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bd92b81d&vxp=mtr
 
I'm a little late but what I do is use the stage 3 blue compound made by 3M with a black foam pad to get swirls out.

I use as little compound as possible for the polishing stage. Like 1/4 of the amount of compound I'd use for the first 2 stages. Anyway I wipe the blue compound on with a pad and then turn the buffer speed way down. I don't know the RPM's but my Makita has 5 speeds. I cut with it on 3 and I polish with it on 1. So at the 1 speed I keep the buffer as straight as possible on the panel and just go easy. I'll barely put any pressure on the panel and mainly let the weight of the buffer do 75% of the work. Since I barely use any compound, I go until I don't really see any compound left. Normally this works but sometimes I have to do it a couple times if there's still swirls left when I'm done.
 
The compound is just top aggressive to leave a good polished finish. If you think it looks good now, try a good polish next time. Something like Uno HD or Meguiars 205. You will be amazed.

The car Im working on today I started with Meguiars D300 compound on a microfiber pad, Followed that up with the D300 and a orange foam pad. Then switched to a white pad and 205 polish. Now Im finishing it up with a black pad.
 
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