Building W2 heads -need help

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73dart360

73dart360

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i just got a new pair of W2- 59 degree heads 70 cc open chamber
part #P4529446 these are bare heads i will be running these on a 408 stroker I am not sure exactly what i need to make them complete and am not sure if any machining needs to be done on these heads.I know you mopar race guys know what your doing i always get great advice from this forum i was also thinking self polishing these if possible :salute:
 
I'm using the econo, long valve version. The seat runout should be checked. Mine was good. Other than that, no maching was required. The iron rockers are nolonger available. I had to opt for the more expensive Harland S's. Rocker choices aren't great. Erson also makes rockers. Pushrods should be custom cut to fit to get the optimum lengths (two different lengths).
 
lenweiler said:
I'm using the econo, long valve version. The seat runout should be checked. Mine was good. Other than that, no maching was required. The iron rockers are nolonger available. I had to opt for the more expensive Harland S's. Rocker choices aren't great. Erson also makes rockers. Pushrods should be custom cut to fit to get the optimum lengths (two different lengths).
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len what is the difference between my w2 heads and the econo`s ?
 
lenweiler said:
I'm using the econo, long valve version. The seat runout should be checked. Mine was good. Other than that, no maching was required. The iron rockers are nolonger available. I had to opt for the more expensive Harland S's. Rocker choices aren't great. Erson also makes rockers. Pushrods should be custom cut to fit to get the optimum lengths (two different lengths).
Click to expand...
i wa wondering if i got a good deal, i won them on ebay brand new in the box, i paid $405.00
 
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. I feel so bad that I will give you what you paid if you will ship them to me.
 
Without looking up part numbers, theres 2 different W-2 heads. They are with and without rocker stands. If yours do not have rocker stands, there given the label of race head. With the rocker stands, where you just bolt on the shaft and rockers, that would be the "Econo" head. "Econo" is used just simply for the abilty to use the stock rocker shaft and 340 T/A rockers. Regular rockers can be used except for the intake rockers which need and offset.
These rockers can be purchased by Crane in ductile iron or roller. Other places have these rockers as well.
 
There are also two versions of the econo, one for standard length valves and one for long stem valves. I was been that the T/A rocker does not have enough offset for the w-2 so you might what to check that before you buy some intake rockers, the exhaust side will use standard rockers.
 
340mopar said:
There are also two versions of the econo,
Click to expand...
I have noticed that through the years, there have been many versions.
 
I believe that these are the "Econo" short valve W-2 heads. I'm slackin' @ work right now, but I'll check my book when I get home.
 
SLACKIN!!!!! :thumbup: :wav: :la: \\:D/
Yaaa-Hooo!!!!!!!
 
hi there,73 dart. is there a chance you typed in the wrong part number? cause i just checked my 2002 dc book.and all i see is part#4529994=std lenth valves and part#4529995=long valves.both of them are 59 degree heads with cast in pedestals designed for arm shaft pakages with 18 degree valve angles. i have a set of the 995's im putting together. the only thing i did to them with shave .100 off the top of the guides and added teflon valve seals. check out this site,www.carcraft.com/techarticles/76858/index.html sorry i dont know how to make a link to this site but it contains some good info on these heads.hope it helps.
 
rumblefish360 SLACKIN!!!!! \\/
Yaaa-Hooo!!!!!!!

Yep! I admit it! :blackeye: spent most of the day entertaining my co-workers! :jocolor:

This is what I found:
Flat-machined rocker pads that require rocker stands and long valves for higher lifts.
W2 Race Heads

P4529446 Race 59° head, 70cc open chamber - 18° valve angle
P5007336 Race 48° head, 47cc closed chamber - 15° valve angle
P5007355 Race 59° head, 68cc closed chamber - 18° valve angle
P5249769 Race 59° head, 65cc closed chamber - 18° valve angle

In a nutshell: Has flat rocker pads and requires rocker shaft stands, requires long, 2.02I & 1.60E, 3/8 stem valves, flows 260 cfm unported (should support 540hp no sweat!), can be used with stock 59 degree tappet bores, will require offset rocker arms, and they are legal, although considered experimental, heads for circle track racing.
Oh yeah, almost forgot, they probably have raised exhaust ports with a spread bolt header pattern.

I take no responsibilty for the above information as I have been completely useless today as well as a general goof-off! :tongue5:
 
I knew the race foum could help me out ,now i can start building them. I`m trying to get it into the mid 11`s thank you all.
 
ramcharger said:
rumblefish360 SLACKIN!!!!! \\/
Yaaa-Hooo!!!!!!!

Yep! I admit it! :blackeye: spent most of the day entertaining my co-workers! :jocolor:

This is what I found:
Flat-machined rocker pads that require rocker stands and long valves for higher lifts.
W2 Race Heads

P4529446 Race 59° head, 70cc open chamber - 18° valve angle
P5007336 Race 48° head, 47cc closed chamber - 15° valve angle
P5007355 Race 59° head, 68cc closed chamber - 18° valve angle
P5249769 Race 59° head, 65cc closed chamber - 18° valve angle

In a nutshell: Has flat rocker pads and requires rocker shaft stands, requires long, 2.02I & 1.60E, 3/8 stem valves, flows 260 cfm unported (should support 540hp no sweat!), can be used with stock 59 degree tappet bores, will require offset rocker arms, and they are legal, although considered experimental, heads for circle track racing.
Oh yeah, almost forgot, they probably have raised exhaust ports with a spread bolt header pattern.

I take no responsibilty for the above information as I have been completely useless today as well as a general goof-off! :tongue5:
Click to expand...
ramcharger that is what i was looking for thanks for the great info
 
73dart360 said:
I knew the race foum could help me out ,now i can start building them. I`m trying to get it into the mid 11`s thank you all.
Click to expand...

I think their flow numbers are optimistic, have the heads ported with particular attention to the bowl area and around the guides where they protrude into the port. Spend some money now and you'll be happier later. Try to use a cam that takes advantage of the flow numbers you get.

Since you have race heads you'll need long valves, might as well buy 2.08 intakes and get the extra flow, you'll need it for those cubes.

Lastly you'll need 2 inch installed height valve springs, the billet offset rocker hold downs and shafts with offset hold down holes. You can get aluminum roller rockers from Crane and if you have the dimensions they will even make you pushrods.

Of course you'll need a W2 specific intake and possibly headers to match. Be sure to check your valve clearance with the larger valves.

Oh and welcome to the world of actually building an engine and not just assembling one.
 
73dart360:
No problem and happy to help! :thumbup: Heed GuitarJones's advice as he is absolutey correct, get the bigger intake valves and get some porting done to take advantage of them! Let us know how it turns out as I have a similiar stroker build in mind using a solid roller cam with specs in the 240 degree duration, 108 LSA and .600 lift range for good unbored block I have laying around. I was debating on what head with my choices narrowed down to W2, Brodix B1 BA, or heavily ported Edelbrock Magnums with a compression ratio in the 11.0 to 11.5 range.
 
Guitar Jones said:
I think their flow numbers are optimistic, have the heads ported with particular attention to the bowl area and around the guides where they protrude into the port. Spend some money now and you'll be happier later. Try to use a cam that takes advantage of the flow numbers you get.

Since you have race heads you'll need long valves, might as well buy 2.08 intakes and get the extra flow, you'll need it for those cubes.

Lastly you'll need 2 inch installed height valve springs, the billet offset rocker hold downs and shafts with offset hold down holes. You can get aluminum roller rockers from Crane and if you have the dimensions they will even make you pushrods.

Of course you'll need a W2 specific intake and possibly headers to match. Be sure to check your valve clearance with the larger valves.

Oh and welcome to the world of actually building an engine and not just assembling one.
Click to expand...
guitar jones thanks for the specs i`ll be using your advice thanks :salute:
 
ramcharger said:
I was debating on what head with my choices narrowed down to W2, Brodix B1 BA, or heavily ported Edelbrock Magnums with a compression ratio in the 11.0 to 11.5 range.
Click to expand...


My suggestion is to stay away from the Edelbrocks unless it's just a street engine. Their flow numbers aren't that great as they were designed as a general performance replacement head and not a race head. If you want the big flow numbers stick with W2's or the large port Commandos. The LPC's are very close to the W5 without the special intake manifold and can be ported to come oh so close in flow. The B1 BA's are OK but the LPC's I believe are better. What ever you do stay away fromt the Brodix B1 BA MC (moved centerline) as everything I've heard about them is they don't flow well at all.
 
Guitar Jones said:
My suggestion is to stay away from the Edelbrocks unless it's just a street engine. Their flow numbers aren't that great as they were designed as a general performance replacement head and not a race head. If you want the big flow numbers stick with W2's or the large port Commandos. The LPC's are very close to the W5 without the special intake manifold and can be ported to come oh so close in flow. The B1 BA's are OK but the LPC's I believe are better. What ever you do stay away fromt the Brodix B1 BA MC (moved centerline) as everything I've heard about them is they don't flow well at all.
Click to expand...

Excellent, thanks for the info! Looks like LPC's are in my future as I would prefer an aluminum head for this build.
 
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