Burning up ballast resisters

-

rumblefish360

I have escaped the EVIL Empire State!
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2005
Messages
49,377
Reaction score
23,205
Location
Florida
Well, the title sez it all, 3 in a month, WTF? is that all about? Crazy I tell ya.

Charging is normal, starting, otherwise is allways quick. Anybody go through this?
 
I've put a nut behind ballast resistor and threaded into firewall.........for some air to circulate around ballast resistor to keep it cooler. Maybe this will help
 
If you are using points you may have too much dwell. Points do not correctly control the dwell time, only the angle. The time varies with engine speed. There is too much charge time at low speeds and too little at high speeds.

If you are using a solid state ignition then the control could be defective. It is also possible the coil has a shorted turn.

If you have a scope available, view the voltage drop on the ballast with the engine running. With a modern solid state ignition, the charge time should be a few mS. The scope signal should ramp and then level off. The time spent after the ramp up is a waste of energy (just heats coil and ballast).

I develop ignition and fuel injection systems as a hobby. Please ask questions, I am willing to help.
 
Thanks fellas. I'll try spaceing it out for better heat disapation, er, Spelling! You know what i mean.

Kit, it's a '74 Duster with a Orange box upgrade , MP distibutor and Accel coil.

I haven't seen a scope in years. I think everybody got rid of there scopes as F.I. and computers became dominant.
 
Did you try a different vendor on the ballast resistors? Cheap parts are cheap parts, and even tier one vendors put out bad batches from time to time.
 
C39, I have had these parts for seriously, um-teen years.
wild and crazy, Stock minus whats writin above.

4 prong resister.
 
There I go again, waiting forever to post a reply and 1wild&crazyguy says basically what I was going to say. I`ve got to stop dawdling around so!
 
I take it you have the resistor the right way and aren't running the coil of the low volt side of the ballast, which is for 5th pin wiring?

I would wanna suspect the ign box.

But you could, once varrifying the coils ballast ohm rating requirment, run a new wire to the coil from the ballast and see what happens.

But when this happened to me I lost the orange box and threw on an msd, no more ballast issue.
 
Be sure that both elements of the resistor are filled with the white ceramic. Look at the back side of the resistor.

Does the Orange box have 4 or 5 pins ?

The Accel coil could be the problem.
 
I agree that the Accel coil might be your problem. Any chance you have a Mopar stock coil available to swap in?

A few years ago on the Moparts board, a person running a Accel coil had similar problems. As I recall the coil was swapped and the problem disappeared. The voltage match between the ballast and the coil is very important, as the primary purpose of the ballast is to vary the voltage to the coil with engine speed.
 
A ballast resistor limits limits the maximum coil current. The maximum coil current = battery voltage / (ballast resistance + coil resitance + wiring resistance). If the coil resistance is decreased, the current increases. The power dissipation in a resistor, P = I * I * R, where I is the current and R is the ballast resistance. I * I is current squared. An example is if the current increases by 20%, the power dissipation increases by 44%. The solution as other have stated is to use a standard coil, or increase the value or power rating of the ballast. The elevated current may at sometime cause failure of the orange box transistor. The use of a MSD box is also an excellent idea. The MSD box charges a capacitor to a high voltage and dumps it into the coil that works as a transformer to step up the voltage for the spark. No ballast is required.

More modern ignitions propery control the dwell and limit the current by limiting the charge time. A ballast is not required. The dwell is a predictive thing done with micro controllers. Proper dwell control achieves correct charge current at the correct time for the spark. The older means in the orange box uses older and dumb analog means and results in undesirable excess dwell. The ballast is a band-aid to limit when the coil is prematurely saturated.

As a hobby I build high performance ignitions that do not need distributor caps and rotors. They are able to be easily tuned with engine running. They have three dimensional spark advance tuning. The available spark energy is not limited at high rpms since multiple coils are used. The multiple coils enable dwell overlap, not possible with single coil ignition.
 
A ballast resistor limits limits the maximum coil current. The maximum coil current = battery voltage / (ballast resistance + coil resitance + wiring resistance). If the coil resistance is decreased, the current increases. The power dissipation in a resistor, P = I * I * R, where I is the current and R is the ballast resistance. I * I is current squared. An example is if the current increases by 20%, the power dissipation increases by 44%. The solution as other have stated is to use a standard coil, or increase the value or power rating of the ballast. The elevated current may at sometime cause failure of the orange box transistor. The use of a MSD box is also an excellent idea. The MSD box charges a capacitor to a high voltage and dumps it into the coil that works as a transformer to step up the voltage for the spark. No ballast is required.

More modern ignitions propery control the dwell and limit the current by limiting the charge time. A ballast is not required. The dwell is a predictive thing done with micro controllers. Proper dwell control achieves correct charge current at the correct time for the spark. The older means in the orange box uses older and dumb analog means and results in undesirable excess dwell. The ballast is a band-aid to limit when the coil is prematurely saturated.

As a hobby I build high performance ignitions that do not need distributor caps and rotors. They are able to be easily tuned with engine running. They have three dimensional spark advance tuning. The available spark energy is not limited at high rpms since multiple coils are used. The multiple coils enable dwell overlap, not possible with single coil ignition.

exactly.
 
Hey everybody;

I want to share a PM from a member DusTed74, Ted and I have not met but have fast become freinds with each other since his old stomping grounds were here with me and he has a freind, mentioned below that has work along time with Chrysler;


DusTed74 said:
Hey Rob why dont you run over and talk to Gary about this problem. Maybe he can shed some light on it for you? 20 years of working for Chrysler might have taught him something. And you can tell him I said that too.
I wish I could help but I know when to keep my mouth shut and not give bad information.
Ted

My reply to Ted;

Hey Ted. I'll be leaving that thread alone. Turns out, MY BAD! Resistor was fine. The car gave me a run for the money on starting the other morning and since I just replaced the resistor, i thought maybe yet again...the resistor. Swaped it out and presto, engine running. Later, I swapped the wires back and it started right up. So it wasn't the resistor after all.

The car was at work and sat all night in the same spot. It never gave me a issue like that before.

It was easy to assume the resistor went bad since they have in the past given all of us a starting problem. So I think I'm gonna say thanks to everyone here for there thoughts and help on this and hope someone else can bennifit from this thread.

KIT. I'm gonna have to put on my thinking cap and find my glasses for your reply. YIKES! Facts with figures and.... LOL Thank you!

GGs66GT, Orange box with *I THINK* and beileve the stock OE wire harrnass which should be 5 pin. I'll look and edit later. Ot repost on it.
OH, yes, I learned about the ceramic needed on the back of the resistor for one fact for sure....RUST! and Water getting in there.

Vs29H1B, I don't think I have a stock coil, but I'll look and keep it and this in mind IF this becomes an issue. Now that I'm older, I don't throw OE stuff out the door anymore. Not that I'd remember if I did.....LOL
 
-
Back
Top