Buying a 360 engine, need advice

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HookEm

HookEm

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Not sure if this is the right place to put this.
Came across a 360 block on CL, asking $100 or best offer. He said it has the crank, pistons, and rods still in it. Said it came out of a 98.
Supposed to send me pics of it, along with the numbers, and the title of the truck it came out of tomorrow.

What do I need to look for? Don't have much experience with engines, so I'm clueless.
Should I just pull the trigger on it and buy it?
Thanks for the help.
 
I would be extra cautious, as just cause he says its a 360 it might in fact be a 318, check the block for the casting numbers or have him send pics of them, why waste your time.
 
There are differences between the Magnum and 360 that you should know about before you buy.
 
I'm making sure he's sent me pics and the numbers before I leave my house. I'll post them here when I get them.
Thanks again to everyone.
 
Like Oldmanrick said make sure it isn't very rusty. Rust pitting can cause major issues. Also make sure it doesn't have an excessive ring ridge as the newer blocks don't like to be bored more than .040 max. Mileage will generally dictate how much cylinder wear there is. I usually pass on blocks with more than 150,000 miles but that's JMO. Look it over for any cracks, especially on the deck surface and in the lifter valley. Also remember that since it's a magnum block you won't be able to run older LA heads because magnum's oil the rocker arms through the pushrods while older LA's oil through the block, which the magnum doesn't have the provision for. I didn't see you mention heads but just so you know magnum heads were very prone to cracking. Aftermarket is the way to go for magnum heads. With RHS and Engine Quest making them now at decent prices it's no big deal.
 
Finally sent me some pics. He said it had 160k miles on it and supposed to get me the numbers tomorrow.
Still worth it?
 

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Did you ask him why it is torn down? Generally a good running engine won't be taken apart. The big problem I see here is a totally disassembled high mileage engine and you said you don't have much experience with engines. What are your plans?
 
fishy68 said:
Did you ask him why it is torn down? Generally a good running engine won't be taken apart. The big problem I see here is a totally disassembled high mileage engine and you said you don't have much experience with engines. What are your plans?
Click to expand...

He said "the bottom end had a tap and found another 360 for cheap, took off the heads and sold 'em separately because they were new"
My Dad has more experience with engines than I do (though I'm not sure how much exactly).
I need to find some literature on rebuilding engines and transmissions because I really don't know a damn thing about the inner workings or parts. So I can't really say what the plans are. :newb:
 
Here is the book you should be reading for it. Read the casting number on the drivers side of the block it should be: somethingblahblahblah-360.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Mopar-Magnum-Engines-HP1431/dp/1557884315"]How to Rebuild Mopar Magnum V8 Engines HP1431: Larry Shepard: 0075478014316: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]


PS, look at this it will show you a lot:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm
 
HookEm said:
He said "the bottom end had a tap and found another 360 for cheap, took off the heads and sold 'em separately because they were new"
My Dad has more experience with engines than I do (though I'm not sure how much exactly).
I need to find some literature on rebuilding engines and transmissions because I really don't know a damn thing about the inner workings or parts. So I can't really say what the plans are. :newb:
Click to expand...

Hummm... A tap may something fairly simple or something major. With that many miles on it and him saying it was making noise I'd say it needs a complete rebuild. $100 is cheap enough so if your game to learn it'd be a good start. The book Poisondart recommended is decent. If you can get your hands on a factory service manual that covers magnum engines that'll help too.
 
Thanks for the recommendation of the books, I just wasn't sure which ones were the best.
The guy texted me back today and said he'd take $25 for it if I just get it out of his way today.
If it's just the block, is it going to be too heavy to pick up with just 2 people?
 
HookEm said:
Thanks for the recommendation of the books, I just wasn't sure which ones were the best.
The guy texted me back today and said he'd take $25 for it if I just get it out of his way today.
If it's just the block, is it going to be too heavy to pick up with just 2 people?
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2 people should be able to muscle it into the back of a truck. Stop and get a can of spinach on the way over.

I'd scarf it for 25 bucks.
 
nope i lifted a 350 with a chain and board just me and my brother loaded it into his van for scrap lol
 
For $25 bones grab it, and everything that belongs to it within reach, quickly.

Also, miles don't mean much on these engines, they can go 300k on the block with negligible bore wear. So unless something is wrong, you shouldn't need machine work. Do take it apart and check it out though. Chuck a rebuild kit from northernautoparts.com such as this one:

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=1761

If you want more power, get a cam regrind, bullet cams and hughes do this, bullet cams did mine for under $250 shipped both ways. Roll it.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the advice and input. I went ahead and got it. The guy ended up having a cherry picker, so it wasn't too much trouble. Just gotta wait til my Dad comes home this weekend to get it outta my Jeep.

What do the casting numbers on the side mean?
 
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