Bypassing dual ballast resistor

-

SeattleQQ1Fish

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2019
Messages
203
Reaction score
174
Location
Texas
I'm changing the wiring harness in my 67 Barracuda to a M&H that is modified for electronic ignition to take advantage of a dual field alternator and the newer style voltage regulator. I was surprised to see the harness is wired for a dual ballast resistor rather than the single. I'm changing to a FBO setup and need to bypass the dual ballast.

It appears that the wires running to the dual ballast are similar to my stock harness with the Mopar electronic ignition upgrade (blue and brown on one side of the ballast, and 2 blues on the other.) If I'm not mistaken, the extra green wire on the blue & brown side goes to the 5th pin on an ECU, which doesn't exist on my box. My question is, can I just snip off the connectors, splice the 2 blue wires together on one side and the blue & brown on the other and connect them to the single ballast I already have (that is jumpered with a 10 gauge wire in the back.) And what about the green wire? Can I just cut it out, or maybe splice it with the blue and brown wires to use for a 12v source for my electric choke? Thanks again, FABO

IMG_1827.JPG
 
Well, this is how I did it. Just for asthetics, I went ahead and installed the 4 post ballast resister, even though I would not be using it. I made a jumper, the white wire. I opened up the tail of both ballast wires and put a piggyback clip in and recrimped them, then added that white jumper. Voltage regulator mounted and got a square back alt with a single pulley. Obviously using the FBO module in picture, which does require a different coil.
Piggyback can or should be able to be purchased at a hardware store.

20230928_164802.jpg


20230928_165011.jpg


20230928_165411.jpg
 
You can eliminate the side that fed the box, yes. Everything else that appears needs to be spliced together. Basically, the wiring on the coil side is exactly the same as if it had points.

The two terminals at one end are jumpered together, comes from the key "run" power. Then through the box side of the resistor and off to the box, "if used."

The usual glitch guys forget is they somehow forget, and often eliminated something else, and get the IGN2 resistor bypass circuit left out, so then you get no power in cranking
 
-
Back
Top