I've tried to "preach" against this. PLEASE do not set "Static timing" AT TDC
Rather, bring the engine up, no1 ready to fire AS IF you were coming up to TDC, but set your marks INSTEAD BEFORE TDC where you think you want your timing.
For this procedure, I would thing 12-15* would work.
IF you have points, move the dist cw (to retard) THEN BRING IT back CCW (advanced) until the points open You can easily check this with a light
If you have breakerless, align the reluctor wheel tip to the center of the pickup coil. WITH PRACTICE, key on, coil wire hooked to a plug "test gap" you can move the dist back/ forth and hear and see where the spark "happens" while slowing down the movement each time. Either of these two methods will get it close enough to run that you don't have to "screw" with it which is the LAST thing you want.
WHAT YOU do NOT want is --a lot of grinding on the starter (wipes the lube off the cam)
or a lot of "screwing around" trying to keep it running. You should be able to fire the engine and almost IMMEDIATELY bring it up to the recommended break in RPM
Make sure you have LOTS of battery, IE good cables, connections, maybe a booster handy, your best charger at hand.
Make sure you have PRIMED the fuel system and carb, and if there is any question about fuel, make up a small squirt can/ bottle with some clean fresh fuel in.
After firing, monitor head temp on the ends of the heads (light touch with your hands) to check for hot and watch for circulation in the radiator.
The oil system should be already primed and checked
I used to pull the filter
Give the thing a quick shot to get oil at the filter port
Install a FILLED filter.
With an open hose attached to the sender port, prime until you pump oil out the sender
Plug the sender port (install the sender) and watch for oil at the rocker shafts, while turning the crank by hand.
