Cam Choice

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BasinStBlue

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i'm rebuilding a stock 72 340. Though it would be nice to have
a little bigger cam. thought about a 268-276 from a 71 motor
but not sure how it would work with the lower compression motor?
Thanks.
 
Use an aftermarket cam. They are usually a little more aggressive & have more lift & duration 'under the curve' for better performance.
 
i'm rebuilding a stock 72 340. Though it would be nice to have
a little bigger cam. thought about a 268-276 from a 71 motor
but not sure how it would work with the lower compression motor?
Thanks.
The 68 auto 340 and the 69-73 340s all had the same cam. Only the 68 340 4 speed cam was different.

That said, I'll be damned to hell if I'd put a hydraulic cam in anything now. I'd go solid. The Comp 270s would be a good choice.
 
i'm rebuilding a stock 72 340. Though it would be nice to have
a little bigger cam. thought about a 268-276 from a 71 motor
but not sure how it would work with the lower compression motor?
Thanks.

Same cam both years. In fact (as RR says) same cam for every 340 ever built, except for 1968 4-speed 340's, which was hotter. The factory 268/276 cam works fine with the lower compression motor. But since you're rebuilding it anyway, why not raise the CR?

Only reason I didn't check agree with RR's post is that I think a hydraulic cam is fine for a mild street motor. If you do switch to solid, you'll need new pushrods and new (adjustable) rockers and new shafts.
 
Same cam both years. In fact (as RR says) same cam for every 340 ever built, except for 1968 4-speed 340's, which was hotter. The factory 268/276 cam works fine with the lower compression motor. But since you're rebuilding it anyway, why not raise the CR?

Only reason I didn't check agree with RR's post is that I think a hydraulic cam is fine for a mild street motor. If you do switch to solid, you'll need new pushrods and new (adjustable) rockers and new shafts.
Only reason I said solid is because "right now" ain't a good time for hydraulic lifters as no one really makes a good one.

That and a solid will just outperform everywhere.
 
These Melling JB-2011 hydraulic lifters have been working out well for us, no problems with them.

Screenshot_20210804-085200_Gallery.jpg


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20211208_234830.jpg

Available on ebay ^^^
In stock available
 
Anybody know of the crower cam saver lifters? Seem like they are quality pieces. Others here have recommended roads lifters.
 
Don't hear people on here talking about it, but when selecting a cam and lifters it is a good thing to get the lifters from the cam manufacturer you are buying from.

That way the metalurgy of the cam lobes and lifter faces will mate up properly during break in.

Like melling cams and melling lifters.

Mopar performance cams and mopar performance lifters, they come in kits.

Also the higher the lift cams and the heavier the valve springs at break in the more careful you are going to have to be about doing the cam break in correctly and using the proper high pressure lubricants and zinc oil additives and engine oils.

Good luck on your builds.
 
The 68 auto 340 and the 69-73 340s all had the same cam. Only the 68 340 4 speed cam was different.

That said, I'll be damned to hell if I'd put a hydraulic cam in anything now. I'd go solid. The Comp 270s would be a good choice.
Okay, Georgia, I'm on board with you. I'm having a custom solid roller cam built for my 408. Trick Flow heads, and Trick Flow SBM single plane intake. TTI step headers. Please step up to the microphone, politely, Sir. No BS on my opinion, just an old man looking for information on what may be his last build. Please feel free to PM me, should you so be inclined. I'm an old Marine, so let your dog off the leash. I can handle it without being butt hurt.
 
Only reason I said solid is because "right now" ain't a good time for hydraulic lifters as no one really makes a good one.

That and a solid will just outperform everywhere.


Elgin/enginetec seem to be working out.
As for the issues of others... after reading...Seat pressure seems to be what they can't handle at idle ...they wont pump up till the rpm is there aka enough oil psi. You can shut them off and hear all the lifters collapse one by one...tick tick tick x16
Or I'm just interpreting it that way.
100lbs seat and 260lbs open should be problem/tick free.
 
Howards Cams 710862-08

10 over stock duration, decent lift, 108LSA.
 
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Anybody know of the crower cam saver lifters? Seem like they are quality pieces. Others here have recommended roads lifters.
I have those in my Ford 400 under the work bench slated to go into Gladys.
 
Elgin/enginetec seem to be working out.
As for the issues of others... after reading...Seat pressure seems to be what they can't handle at idle ...they wont pump up till the rpm is there aka enough oil psi. You can shut them off and hear all the lifters collapse one by one...tick tick tick x16
Or I'm just interpreting it that way.
100lbs seat and 260lbs open should be problem/tick free.
What's their solid counterpart?
 
A stack of washers? ;)

Probably dumbells
What are your thoughts on dumbells with say .550 lift? I thought I had read that sometimes that wide oil band could be exposed and cause a drop in oil pressure.

Of course with a slant 6, that's irrelevant, since the lifters have no pressurized oil.
 
Okay, Georgia, I'm on board with you. I'm having a custom solid roller cam built for my 408. Trick Flow heads, and Trick Flow SBM single plane intake. TTI step headers. Please step up to the microphone, politely, Sir. No BS on my opinion, just an old man looking for information on what may be his last build. Please feel free to PM me, should you so be inclined. I'm an old Marine, so let your dog off the leash. I can handle it without being butt hurt.
LOL I don't think there's any reason to let the dog out. What specs on your custom roller? I'm curious.
 
What are your thoughts on dumbells with say .550 lift? I thought I had read that sometimes that wide oil band could be exposed and cause a drop in oil pressure.

Of course with a slant 6, that's irrelevant, since the lifters have no pressurized oil.
The base circle, the counter bore atop the lifter bores will decide that.
Buy one single lifter and test it.
Hear say is good but not definitive.
When nothing is perfect...it leaves a small margin of 'chance' in a case like that.
 
WOW, Forgot what I asked. Thanks everyone.
It can be easy or complicated. Let’s try easy. If you know your compression, gear, carb size, etc, write it all down and hit all the cam company websites and see what their descriptions (if any, if not try some others that do, and then you can go back with a better idea which ones are similar) call for for any particular grind. Forget the lumpy, lopey jargon initially. Focus on matching your specs to what each cam calls for ideally. Start writing down the lift, durations (adv &.050”) and overlap of all the cams that line up with what you have. You should get a good idea of what range you’ll be in. Here’s are “examples” of ones I would “assume” to be in your range.


LA Small Block Hydraulic Lifter Camshaft

LA Small Block Hydraulic Lifter Camshaft


:thumbsup:
 
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Unless today's solid FT lifters are old stock [ like 25 yrs old ], then are likely no better quality than the dubious quality of the current hyd FT lifters.
The cam companies do not make their own lifters, they buy & rebox them from the handful of companies making lifters. I had Comp & Crower sol lifters fail about 12 yrs ago. Since then, when I wanted reliable sol lifters, I used some old stock Sealed Power hyd lifters that were made before the trouble started, & converted them to solids. Fancy names like Lunati use & EDM holes in the base of Crower lifters are not going to help if the core metallurgy is c-r-a-p.
My advice with sol lifters is the same as hyd lifters: use factory or 25 yr old lifters & have them re-faced.
 
LOL I don't think there's any reason to let the dog out. What specs on your custom roller? I'm curious.
I'm working with my highly regarded machine shop. They're working with Jim, at Racer Brown for my cam. 1998 5.9 Magnum. Trick Flow 190's, and the matching TF single plane Intake. I actually have these parts in my possession. We're discussing a 250-260 duration, and a 670 lift on a solid roller. Pump gas friendly, so 10.6-1 compression ratio. Molnar crank, forged rods and pistons. Pat Blais built 727. Still selecting the right TQ. Rear is a 741 rear that's being sent out for a rebuild, with 3.73, or 3,91 gears. It's going into a stock appearing 1970 Swinger 340. I'm letting my dog out! All opinions are appreciated.
 
I'm working with my highly regarded machine shop. They're working with Jim, at Racer Brown for my cam. 1998 5.9 Magnum. Trick Flow 190's, and the matching TF single plane Intake. I actually have these parts in my possession. We're discussing a 250-260 duration, and a 670 lift on a solid roller. Pump gas friendly, so 10.6-1 compression ratio. Molnar crank, forged rods and pistons. Pat Blais built 727. Still selecting the right TQ. Rear is a 741 rear that's being sent out for a rebuild, with 3.73, or 3,91 gears. It's going into a stock appearing 1970 Swinger 340. I'm letting my dog out! All opinions are appreciated.
Is Pat still doin it? I'm glad to read that. He's good people. I think with people and advice like you have involved, you sure as heck don't need me around. LOL Keep us posted on it though. Sounds like a winner for sure.
 
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